The good news for anyone who has procrastinated over a long fall gardening checklist is that there is still time. It is not too late to make additions to your garden for quick wins, like heart-warming, bright blooms to brighten up the cold days or quick harvests for winter meals.

We want to show you what can be done even at this late stage of fall. To help do this, I spoke to some plant experts to get their recommendations for quick wins to boost any winter garden. They shine a spotlight on five great last-minute planting ideas before winter to put a smile on your face.

Last-minute planting ideas before winter – expert suggestions

You need to plant the following before the first frosts, but when the feeling of winter truly arrives in your area will depend on your US hardiness zone. If your ground is still workable, then there is still time for these last-minute planting ideas.

1. Hellebores

There are hellebore varieties in a stunning array of colors, but the most synonymous with the festive period is Helleborus niger, also known as the Christmas rose. This winter-blooming perennial plant grows to 12 inches tall and produces white bowl-shaped flowers flushed with pink.

Emma Fell, head of horticulture at Hillier Garden Centres, calls the Christmas rose ‘perfect’ for any winter garden, as the plants bloom from late December onwards, which is a great reason to start growing hellebores.

‘These hardy perennials produce large, nodding flowers in shades of white, even in frosty conditions,’ continues Emma. ‘Plant them now in a sheltered, shady spot with well-drained soil to enjoy their elegant blooms right around Christmas.’

If you want to plant hellebores in your yard before winter, this live Helleborus ‘Ivory Prince’ plant at Amazon comes in a one-gallon pot and produces creamy white flowers.

2. Pansies

Pansies may be small, but they are mighty plants to provide pops of color throughout the colder months. Along with violas, which are smaller and have fewer petals but are equally vibrant, they make some of the prettiest winter flowers for pots.

‘Pansies and violas are great bedding plants to plant in November, as they'll continue blooming and providing pops of garden color through the winter,’ says Michael Clarke, landscape architect and horticulturalist.

There is a wide variety of winter pansies and violas to choose from, in dynamic colors including purple, blue, red, white, and orange. They can range from bright yellow to dark purple. Some violas and pansies come with bicolor combinations, or you can get mixes featuring blends of colors.

‘Plant them now, and these resilient flowers will continue blooming through winter, adding charm and colour throughout the Christmas season and beyond,’ adds Emma Fell.

Plant pansies into late fall, up until the first frosts, into containers or at the front of flower beds that get lots of seasonal sun. For an eclectic mix of plants, this six-pack of multicolored live pansy plants at Walmart can be planted up for a wonderful display of winter blooms.

3. Cyclamen

These small perennials are perfect for providing a splash of color in winter, when little else is out. If you like the idea of small white, pink and purple flowers during the colder months, then varieties of Cyclamen coum are perfect for this.

There are 23 different species of cyclamen, including ones that flower in the fall and tender indoor cyclamen types suited for growing as indoor plants. But Cyclamen coum is a classic winter-flowering plant, with delicate flowers on tall stems atop rounded leaves.

‘Perfect for shaded areas, these plants thrive in cool conditions,' says Emma. ‘Plant them in pots or garden beds now, and they’ll bring a graceful touch of color to your garden or doorstep, just in time for Christmas.’

Plant cyclamen in part-shade areas of the yard, into fertile and well-draining soil types. These plants like an annual mulch with leaf mold, as it helps to mimic their natural woodland habitats.

You can get a hardy Cyclamen coum plant at Nature Hills to enjoy pink-purple flowers in variegated heart-shaped foliage in winter and spring.

4. Winter Jasmine

If you want a winter-flowering shrub to plant in the fall that can bring delight on gloomy, cold days, then winter jasmine may be one of the best you can pick. With bright yellow flowers blooming on bare stems, it is a unique frost-hardy winter climber to brighten even the bitterest winter days.

Emma Fell describes the standout blooms of winter jasmine as a ‘stunning contrast to the winter landscape’. She adds: ‘Plant now in a sunny or partially shaded location, and they will bloom early in winter, making them a perfect addition to any Christmas display.’

To grow winter jasmine successfully, plant it in a sunny, sheltered spot. It thrives in rich, well-draining soil, and adding organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, before planting provides essential plant nutrients to get it off to a great start.

You can get a live Jasminum nudiflorum plant at Amazon suitable for growing in zones 5-10.

5. Cold-hardy greens

If you want last-minute planting ideas before winter for your vegetable garden, then cold-hardy greens are definitely the way to go. You can plant the likes of spinach, bok choy, mustards, or corn salad into vegetable beds, raised beds, or cold frames to provide tasty harvest through winter and into spring.

‘These are simple, low-effort choices that overwinter and ‘wake up’ in spring, giving you that confidence booster and food long before anything planted in spring catches up,’ claims Tiffany Rodriguez, the founder of Growing With Tiff. ‘I always mulch heavily with leaves or straw to lock in warmth and moisture, and I add a row cover as a winter blanket.’

For quick wins and earlier harvests, harvest the greens as a cut-and-come-again vegetable. This can start by snipping baby leaves, which can be as little as a month after sowing seeds outdoors or even less if you buy seedlings to transplant into your veg plot before winter.

Covering plants with frost cloth, as suggested by Tiffany, helps to get seeds and young plants off to a good start by protecting plants from frost. It also helps you to overwinter vegetables and keep the harvest coming. Alternatively, cover plants with cloches or portable cold frames to protect them from the worst of the winter cold.

If you are looking for even more planting inspiration, we are here to help. These guides to vegetables to plant in November and flowers to sow in November contain lots of information and expert advice. The reward can be crops to harvest throughout the colder months and earlier blooms in spring.

Unlike birth month flowers, which are founded in historic and modern cultural traditions, my list of birth month flower seeds refers to a set of flower seeds to sow in every month of the year. The best part is sowing your birth month flower seed will reward you with enjoyment that extends beyond your birthday month, as you get to watch your seeds sprout, grow bigger, and eventually bloom.

What's more, the majority of birth month flower seeds are on the list of easiest flowers to grow from seed, so you can't go too far wrong with them. To help you out, I've compiled all 12 right here alongside expert tips on how to grow them successfully.

Discover your birth month flower seeds

Add these birth month seeds to your roster of birth month plants, including birth month fruit trees and birth month herbs – you can grow an entire garden personalized to your birthday.

FAQs

Why are my flower seeds not growing?

There are many reasons why your flower seeds are not growing. It may be that you've sown them at the wrong time of year, so the temperature and lighting are not optimal for germination, or your seeds may have been unviable to begin with. Overwatering is also a common seed sowing mistake that stops flower seeds from germinating.

They key to success with growing these birth month flower seeds is knowing whether you need to sow indoors or sow outdoors for the time of year you're planting them and your US hardiness zone. Don't forget to also use the below essential seed sowing tools to help your efforts:

Getting my seedling heat mat out is at the top of my winter houseplant care regime, as it helps to control the growing environment of my plants when the room temperature suddenly drops. What's even better, I've just spotted Walmart are offering two seedling heat mats for just $17 – a bargain that will allow you to keep lots of houseplants warm this winter.

By placing houseplants on top of these heat mats, they can grow in a consistent warm temperature, keeping them happy through the coldest months. And not only is the current deal from Walmart good value for money, the 4.6 star ratings rave about the mats' reliability, efficiency, and high-quality construction.

Why I use a seedling heat mat to keep houseplants warm

Houseplants are not the first thing you would think to use a seedling heat mat for, but I promise it's the secret weapon to avoid common winter houseplant care mistakes.

When winter comes around, you can feel room temperatures drop –and so can your plants. This drastic change can impact them in a number of ways, from drooping foliage to browning leaf tips.

On top of this, it's a common error to not adjust houseplant watering in winter. As the plants' growth slows down at this time of year, they don't take up so much water. Excessive moisture in their soil mixed with cold temperatures can accelerate issues like houseplant root rot.

This is where my handy seedling heat mat saves the day. Providing a stable warm temperature (ideally between 65-75°F for many of the best tropical indoor plants) stops these symptoms from happening.

The warmth from beneath the plants also helps soil to dry more quickly, reducing the likelihood of oversaturation and root rot.

A word of warning with this hack: it isn't always ideal to place a houseplant pot directly onto the surface of a heat mat. This can be a too-hot environment (depending on the temperature of the heat mat and needs of your plants), drying soil too quickly and dehydrating or burning roots.

I avoid this by simply placing plastic plant trays (from Amazon) in between the the heat mat and my plant pot as a buffer.

What shoppers love about the Walmart seedling heat mats

The Walmart seedling heat mats have positive reviews from satisfied customers who say they work efficiently:

'This worked way better than I ever thought it would. This mat made my marigold seeds sprout in two days,' one shopper writes.

As an indoor growing system to keep houseplants warm in winter, one customer shares:

'I used these to wrap around a very large pot for an indoor tree. They hold the soil a few degrees above ambient temperature and have a lot of surface area.'

This perfectly demonstrates the versatility of the Walmart seedling heat mats. Plus, after the winter months have passed and your houseplants no longer need the extra warmth, you can add it to your kit for sowing seeds in spring.

The reviews also reveal the seedling heat mats hold up over time, with shoppers calling them reliable and highly constructed.

A downside to the Walmart seedling heat mats is that you can't adjust the temperature. The description notes it maintains a temperature between 70-85°F.

'I wish it had a temperature control, but it's great for the price,' one person writes.

You can purchase seedling heat mats with a thermostat (like this from Amazon), though they're typically sold at a higher price than Walmart's two seedling heat mats for $17.

You can also get around this temperature control issue. For example, as I mentioned above, by placing a fire-safe buffer (like these plastic plant trays from Amazon) in between the mat and your plants to make it less intense for plant roots.

Of course, the impact of this temperature control issue also depends on what you're using the seedling heat mats for:

'Not too hot, not too cold. I used them under two terrariums made from old aquariums,' one person shares. 'My caladiums and fittonias loved them,' they note.

The best thing to do is research optimal temperatures for the plants you intend to use the heat mats for and act accordingly.

Shop our houseplant winter essentials edit

If you're new to looking after houseplants, consider adding some of the best winter houseplants to your home this season. These are indoor plants that are better suited to low-light, cold conditions. And if any of you houseplants do experience symptoms from dropping temperatures, read our advice on how to revive houseplants from cold damage.

Heating a greenhouse allows for a number of winter greenhouse uses, including growing plants from seed and overwintering tender perennials. This Air Choice greenhouse heater with a digital thermostat from Amazon makes this effortless to do, even if you only have a smaller portable greenhouse.

It's one of the best I've come across, currently on sale for just $90 (cheaper than models of a similar size and design). It's a reliable investment that will transform your unheated greenhouse into a winter escape for the plants that need it most. Customers have given it a 4.5 star rating and say, 'whether you need quick warmth in a garage, greenhouse, grow tent, or even indoors, this heater delivers consistent and efficient heat exactly where you need it.'

Why heat a greenhouse in winter?

One of the top greenhouse jobs for November is heating it, in preparation for a number of winter uses.

In particular, heating your greenhouse creates an ideal spot for propagating plants from cuttings, growing plants from seed, and overwintering tender perennials that can't cope with the coldest conditions.

While there are ways to heat a greenhouse cheaply, including using bubble wrap to insulate windows, this doesn't offer a way to control temperatures – something important for the likes of achieving the minimal temperature for seedlings in a greenhouse.

That's where the Air Choice Amazon greenhouse heater with a digital thermostat comes in, offering a way to provide a consistent temperature and controlled environment during winter. Plus, it's made from fireproof materials for safe, worry-free use.

Why shoppers love this greenhouse heater

One of the top selling points for customers is the fact the Air Choice Amazon greenhouse heater with a digital thermostat has multiple settings to choose from.

'I like that it has three heat settings and an adjustable thermostat, so I can control the temperature instead of it just blasting non-stop,' one five-star reviewer writes.

Not only this, but shoppers also note its efficiency is excellent:

'It heats up very quickly, and the built-in thermostat helps maintain a steady temperature without constantly turning it on and off,' one reviewer writes.

As for moving this Amazon greenhouse heater with a digital thermostat to the right position, shoppers haven't struggled getting it set up.

'It's a nice size and lightweight enough to move around easily,' one person writes.

Kitted out with fire-safety functions, including overheat protection and the thermostat providing stable performance, customers express their trust in the fact it is a safe product to use:

'Safety was a big concern for me, especially using it in a greenhouse, and the overheat protection gives peace of mind,' one person writes. 'It automatically shuts off if it gets too hot, which is a big plus when leaving it on for longer periods,' they add.

Perhaps the one downside to note is the fact it measures 8.6 inches tall, ideal for mini greenhouses, DIY greenhouses, and portable greenhouses, but taking longer to warm up larger greenhouses.

Users should also be aware it isn't cordless, posing a tripping hazard. Though, this is easily rectified by placing it carefully in your greenhouse, out of pathways.

As for the price, $90 is quite expensive even with the 10% discount. But, this is more affordable than other greenhouse heaters on the market.

Plus, the fact this will turn your unheated greenhouse into a controlled environment for growing in winter will provide you with new plants and save those that otherwise wouldn't survive frost, making it a worthwhile investment.

Just don't forget to also ventilate your greenhouse when using this heater, to prevent a build-up of excessive moisture and humidity.

Shop other winter greenhouse essentials:

Don't forget to also kit out your greenhouse to make the most of it in winter. This includes getting some shelving in place for organized storage and installing a water source.

Before the worst of the winter weather arrives, there may be time for some pruning, planting, and mulching, as well as collecting leaves and getting all your plants adequately protected ahead of the frost.

I worked year-round outdoors as a professional gardener in zone 8 in the UK, and there was no let-up in November. The to-do list was brimming with important jobs to keep the garden looking at its best, prepare it for winter, and ensure it bounced back as you’d expect come spring. To help you plan your late fall, I have identified seven tasks to add to your fall gardening checklist to get your yard in top shape.

7 late fall garden jobs you shouldn't skip

Whether or not the time is right to complete all of these tasks will depend on your US hardiness zone. Those in mild or warmer climates should still have time before the temperatures plummet and freezing winds arrive to complete some of the following jobs.

1. Do some pruning

Late fall pruning is not ideal for all plants, but there may be time to start trimming some deciduous plants that go dormant for winter. The window for pruning opens in November and runs till around March.

Provided the temperatures are not freezing, you may have an opportunity to prune ornamental trees, fruit trees, soft fruit bushes, and some herbaceous perennials. To find more pruning inspiration, our guides to plants to prune in November and trees to prune in November showcase those you can trim this month, along with tips for each.

However, not all plants are suited to pruning this month. It would be a pruning mistake to trim spring-flowering shrubs, for example, as you would cut off the buds to carry next year’s blooms. For more tips, we reveal some perennials not to cut back in fall.

Keep your pruning tools clean and sharp before pruning this late fall. A pocket-sized tool sharpener like this from Amazon can be a useful tool for keeping pruning shears or loppers sharp while out in the garden.

2. Move plants

Late fall offers a window to lift and transplant shrubs or perennials if they are in the wrong place, or if you are having a redesign of flower beds or borders.

Moving plants during dormancy avoids overly-stressing them. The cooler temperatures and moist soil of the fall are ideal, with the only caveat being that you want to get them shifted before the ground freezes in winter.

To transplant a shrub or perennial, dig a large circle around the plant to lift it from the ground with a lot of soil remaining on the rootball. Plant it again in its new home, and give it a thorough watering and a few inches of mulch.

If a perennial plant has gotten overgrown, it can also be a good time to divide plants. Do this by splitting the clump with a sharp spade or knife, and replanting each section wherever it is desirable.

3. Mulch beds and borders

Mulching is an always-recommended fall gardening task, and there is still time to do it. Provided the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged, adding a 2-3 inch layer of organic types of mulch offers many benefits to your plants.

In a nutshell, mulching flower beds or mulching a vegetable garden in the fall retains moisture in the soil, suppresses weeds, provides an insulating layer for roots against frost, and also boosts soil nutrients as it breaks down. All of these help your plants through winter and beyond.

The best fall mulching materials include compost, leaf mold or wood chips, such as this all-natural organic mulch at Walmart. Spread the organic material evenly, but never pile it against tree trunks or shrub stems, as this mulching mistake risks the plant rotting.

For an easy alternative, you can also use cardboard as mulch if you have lots of old boxes around the house. Remove any tape, labels and staples, overlap a few layers of cardboard, and soak them to help them stay in place.

You can get cardboard rolls to avoid laying out lots of individual boxes. For example, this corrugated cardboard roll at Amazon is 12 inches wide and over 30 feet long and will cover lots of ground. Such a roll is also ideal for making no-dig garden beds, just cover the cardboard with a thick layer of compost.

4. Add bare-root plants

Bare-root plants are commonly available from late fall onwards, and they offer a budget-friendly way to plant a large selection of trees and shrubs, both ornamental and edible, as well as hedging plants. They are added to a garden when dormant, and arrive without a container or soil around the roots.

You can plant bare-root trees or shrubs in late fall or early winter, provided the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged. It is advisable to soak the roots of bare-root plants for at least an hour before planting and to add organic matter, like compost or well-rotted manure, to the planting site.

There are so many trees and shrubs you can get bare-root in late fall, it would be impossible to list them all. To mention just a few, the likes of maple, beech, birch, crabapple and many fruit trees can be planted this way. When it comes to shrubs, you can get bare-root roses, viburnum, mahonia, forsythia, and many more.

If you are interested in adding fruit to your garden, our piece on fruits to plant in November reveals lots of bare-root options you can pick from for years of delicious harvests.

5. Collect leaves

If you’ve still got fallen leaves over your lawn or driveway, take advantage of this valuable natural resource by collecting leaves and making use of them. Use those fallen leaves to mulch plants, make leaf mold, or add to the compost to boost your future soil health.

You can be selective of where you collect leaves from, rather than trying to clear every square inch of your garden. Always collect leaves from your lawn to prevent bare patches of grass or disease issues over winter. And diligently remove them from paths and driveways for safety, to stop them from becoming a slip hazard. However, leaves can be left on flower beds to mulch plants and provide shelter to wildlife.

It is advisable to shred leaves you collect before using them as mulch, so they break down quickly. Chopping them up also speeds up the process of making leaf mold. This can be done by going over the leaves with a lawn mower or using a leaf mulcher.

Alternatively, you can get machines that collect and mulch leaves, such as this 3-in-1 leaf blower, vacuum, and mulcher at Amazon.

6. Finish planting spring bulbs

You can plant spring bulbs in late fall, but it is best to finish planting them sooner rather than later, just to make sure it is a job ticked off before the ground freezes.

While September and October are ideal for planting daffodil bulbs, snowdrops, crocus and alliums, these spring bulbs can most certainly still go in the ground in November. When it comes to planting tulips, November is actually a great time to plant them to avoid tulip fire as the temperatures are colder and less inviting for the fungus that spreads the disease.

Many new gardeners wonder how deep to plant their bulbs, and the general answer is two to three times their depth. This can be done using a trowel, but a quicker way is to use a bulb planter.

To plant bulbs in late fall, you can get bulb planters with depth markers to help (such as this bulb planter tool at Amazon) or long-handled bulb planters to reduce bending (like this long-handled bulb planter tool at Walmart).

7. Protect vulnerable plants

If you haven’t finished lifting or protecting vulnerable plants in your garden ahead of the frost, get it done ASAP.

Finish all the stages you need to take to overwinter a garden before the end of fall, so you can sit back safe in the knowledge that you are taking no unnecessary risks by subjecting your plants to temperatures they can't survive.

There are many potential ways to protect plants from frost, and those vulnerable plants include tender or tropical plants, half-hardy or borderline perennials, and any young seedlings. Bring tender plants indoors in November, overwinter pot plants indoors or in a protected space, and cover vulnerable seedlings with cloches or cold frames.

Plants can also be wrapped in horticultural fleece or burlap to protect them from the elements. Meanwhile, tender perennials such as dahlias or canna lilies can be lifted and stored, and plants in containers can be moved together for winter for extra warmth.

Before the end of fall, look around the garden to see what still needs some protection in your climate, and make a plan for how best to do it. Get every vulnerable plant protected before it is too late.

Shop essentials to protect plants from frost

There are some other late fall garden jobs you shouldn’t skip that can be done indoors on wet days. These include cleaning and disinfecting any indoor growing space, and insulating a greenhouse with bubble wrap to protect plants that may be spending winter in there.

Sticking sheets of bubble wrap to the inside of the glass is recommended when winterizing an unheated greenhouse, as the material retains heat in the structure while also allowing essential light to reach the plants.

The best part? There's a specially curated collection for seven different US hardiness zones, and it comes with a grow guide explaining how to grow each of the crops included.

It's such a great find if you're in holiday shopping mode, especially considering this Amazon vegetable seed bank is currently half price, at $31.99. I have a few people in mind who are planning a kitchen garden to gift this to and with varieties to grow in every season, I'm planning to also treat myself to one so I can have a productive year-round veg patch in my own yard.

The importance of proper seed storage and organization

There are quite a few seed storage mistakes many gardeners don't realize they're making.

Not having a dry, dark storage solution for seeds can impact their viability by the time you come around to planting them. This is especially true for seeds you have collected from your own yard, lacking a seed packet like shop-bought ones.

Not only this, but as you experiment with more and more varieties of the years, organization is a must.

Many seeds can look similar, so it's vital to have them labelled to keep track of your stock. You don't want to think you're planting a smaller variety of squash only to find a larger one emerge without sufficient room to grow it.

Having a label or notepad to write down when the seeds were bought or collected is also important, as you can only store seeds for a number of years, sometimes only even one year.

This is where the Amazon vegetable seed bank does the work for you. It provides proper storage and a key to keep track of seeds. Plus, the wooden case is a sophisticated addition to your potting shed.

What the reviews say

It's clear to see by the reviews that this Amazon vegetable seed bank has made the perfect gift for many of the shoppers' green-fingered friends and family.

'[I] bought these heirloom seeds for a Christmas gift for family member who loves to plant a garden for fall and spring,' one review reads. 'The box the seeds came in is a great presentation and I know he’ll enjoy them. Great gift idea, I recommend this item,' they add.

The box seems to be a big selling point of the Amazon vegetable seed bank, offering a stylish storage solution that keeps all the seeds organized.

'Doomsday prepping doesn't get much cuter than this seed bank,' one shopper says.

The fact you can also select a seed bank for your US hardiness zone has pleased many customers, offering seeds for planting in every growing season.

The quality and range of the seeds also seems to satisfy buyers:

'This is a great choice for home gardeners who want a reliable, diverse, and easy-to-grow vegetable seed assortment without having to research which varieties fit their region,' says one five-star reviewer. 'It keeps your garden thriving through all four seasons!' they add.

The one downside? There are only options for US hardiness zones 3-9, so it isn't necessarily suitable for those living in the coldest and hottest climes.

Nevertheless, covering a vast majority of growing regions, this seed bank provides an incredible 32 varieties of the best and most delicious vegetables to grow and a charming vessel to keep them in. Worth $60 but on sale for $32, it's a no-brainer you get value for your money.

Shop stylish seed gifts for the holidays

Whether you're buying this Amazon vegetable seed bank as a gift or you're treating yourself to it, our guide to vegetable garden hacks can help you get the most out of your seeds.

As lilacs are often low-maintenance shrubs, the good news is that there isn’t a lot of essential maintenance you need to do in the fall. There are a few key jobs that can make a difference, but there are also two major tasks to avoid, as they can ruin next year’s flowering display.

With that in mind, this guide looks at what to do with lilacs in the fall. It includes the jobs you should consider doing at this time of year when growing lilacs, along with revealing what you definitely should not do.

Expert tips for preparing lilacs for winter – the dos and the don'ts

Whether all of these tasks need to be on your to-do list will depend on your location, climate, and where you grow your lilacs. However, the two jobs to avoid are relevant to every gardener with a lilac in their yard.

What to do with lilacs in the fall – 4 jobs to do

1. Mulch

All spring-flowering shrubs, like lilac, will benefit from an annual mulching. Always have mulching on your fall gardening checklist.

If you are unsure, mulching is spreading organic or inorganic materials over the soil. When mulching flowering shrubs such as lilacs, opt for organic options, like compost, leaves, or wood chips, such as this premium organic wood mulch at Amazon. Organic types of mulch break down, improving the soil structure and boosting soil nutrients, all to the benefit of your lilac.

Mulching around lilacs will also retain moisture, suppress weeds, and prevent winter heave, where the repeated freezing and thawing of the ground exposes the plant’s roots to the winter cold.

Spread a layer 3-4 inches thick around the lilac, but avoid making the mulching mistake of piling mulch against the stems. Leave a one-inch gap between the stems and the organic matter; otherwise, there is a risk of stem rot.

2. Water

This task will only be relevant in specific circumstances, but it is worth noting for the small proportion of gardeners it applies to.

Lilacs are fairly drought-tolerant shrubs once established, but do need regular watering for the first year. Even though they can survive with limited moisture, the best display will come from healthy plants given consistent moisture. That means watering plants during periods of dry weather.

If you do have a particularly dry fall, water plants to prevent the soil from drying out. Another benefit of watering deeply as required in the fall is that moist soil is warmer than dry soil, which adds extra insulation to the roots if the temperatures suddenly drop.

3. Protect plants in pots

They may be hardy shrubs down to US hardiness zone 3, but if you grow lilacs in pots, they will not be as hardy as plants growing in the ground. The roots of pot-grown lilacs are more susceptible to frost, so it may be necessary to protect container plants from winter weather.

With many plants, this can be as simple as moving containers to a sheltered position or burying the pot in the ground. However, lilacs do need large containers in which to thrive, so you may need to protect plants from frost in situ if your pot or planter is too large to move or bury easily.

You can protect pots and planters from frost by mulching heavily over and around the pot to insulate the roots from frost and freezing winds. If you want to do this, the best types of mulch include compost, leaves, bark, or straw.

Alternatively, you can wrap the pot in frost cloth, burlap, or pre-made pot protectors, such as these winter plant pot covers available at Amazon.

4. Plant bare-root lilacs

If you want to add more lilacs to your backyard ideas, you can get bare-root lilacs to plant during dormancy from November to March.

Bare-root trees, shrubs, and hedging plants are commonly available during the colder months. The dormant plants arrive without a container or any soil around the roots. They may not look much, resembling bare twigs, but they do offer a more cost-effective way to add to your garden when compared to container-grown plants.

Plant a lilac in a sunny spot in your garden, and in fertile, well-draining soil. Getting the drainage right is key, as lilacs often sulk if they sit too wet. Adding organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to the planting site can help improve your soil’s drainage.

To plant bare-root trees or shrubs, soak the roots for around an hour before planting to rehydrate them. Make a hole twice the size of the root system, and place the bare-root plant in the hole so it sits at the same level it was previously planted. You can tell this by a change in color on the stem.

Fill the hole and firm the bare-root plant into its new home. Give the shrub a deep watering and a mulch to lock that moisture into the soil.

You can get a bare-root 'Tiny Dancer' lilac at Burpee that grows to just 4-5 feet to plant from November onwards.

What to do with lilacs in the fall – 2 jobs to avoid

1. Don't prune

If you still haven’t got around to it, and admittedly it is very late, then you can deadhead lilac flowers. However, any large-scale pruning this month should be avoided.

This is because lilacs bloom in spring, and it is a pruning mistake to trim in the fall. The price to pay for pruning lilacs in the fall is that you will severely impact next year’s display. As lilacs bloom on wood produced the previous year, trimming in fall removes buds to carry the next spring display.

The right time to prune lilacs is after flowering. You can prune the shrubs in the fall to renovate older, overgrown lilacs. However, you will get no blooms next year. If you do wish to control an older specimen, it is best done over the course of three years.

The only pruning you can do in the fall is to remove any dead, diseased, or damaged stems to keep the plant healthy and to remove suckers so they don’t steal energy and nutrients away from the rest of the shrub.

2. Don't feed

Lilacs are not heavy-feeding shrubs; you do need to be considerate with feeding them. In many circumstances, lilacs don’t need additional fertilizer at all if they are growing in ideal conditions. When it comes to feeding them, spring is a good time to fertilize lilacs; fall is not.

One of the biggest risks of feeding lilacs in the fall is the reaction the shrub will have. The fresh dose of essential plant nutrients will spur a flush of new growth at a time when the lilac should be preparing for its winter dormancy.

Feeding stimulates the lilac into growth, and it will produce a flush of new stems and leaves. This causes a big problem, as they have no time to harden off enough before the frosts arrive. The damage caused by frosts killing these new stems will leave the lilac as a whole more susceptible to pests and diseases.

Another reason to hold off feeding lilacs in the fall is that overfertilizing plants does more harm than good. Lilacs are known not to flower if they are overfed, especially if there is too much nitrogen in the soil.

The tender lilac buds can be susceptible to late frosts, especially after a false spring when temperatures rise temporarily before dipping down again. Such a spell of warmth can trigger the buds to start to swell, only to be killed by returning frosts.

Keep a close eye on the temperatures come spring. If you fear late frosts may kill buds and ruin your display, cover the shrubs in breathable fabric such as frost cloth, burlap, blankets, or old sheets to protect the buds overnight.

Secure the cover to the ground with weights or gardening staples like these on Amazon, and remove the material again once the temperatures warm the following day.

A container garden is a wonderful asset for the yard, as it allows you to show off the best seasonal plants. But, failing to care for the best winter flowers for pots correctly could result in their demise and even damage to your containers.

To help you get it right this year, I've enlisted the help of gardening experts. Here, they share three of the most common winter container gardening mistakes and how to avoid them.

3 winter container gardening mistakes to avoid

If you have containers in your winter garden, it's best to put the right precautions in the place to make sure your pots and plants make it through the harshest season unscathed. These three winter container gardening mistakes are a good place to start:

1. Using too-small pots

The first rule of protecting pots and planters from frost is making sure you're using the right containers. Not only does this refer to frost-proof materials (like this concrete planter from Amazon), it also means choosing the right size.

'You want to use bigger pots,' says Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck. 'Small pots get colder faster and warm up more slowly,' she explains.

This could result in a number of issues, including roots freezing and pots cracking. Switching to bigger pots will help provide a bit more warmth.

Of course, you need to keep in mind which winter plants you're growing in your containers. It would be a bigger container gardening mistake to use a too-large pot for the type of plants you're growing, which could cause issues such as root rot from oversaturated soil.

If you aren't able to use bigger pots for winter, Lindsey recommends:

'Move pots closer to shelter where they will be out of the wind, use cold frames, or a portable greenhouse (from Amazon). You can clutter pots close together to help save on warmth, too,' she adds.

2. Forgetting to mulch

Mulching is a top priority on the fall gardening checklist, insulating plants ahead of frost. But, it can be easy to overlook your containers when it comes to putting mulch down.

'You should mulch with shredded leaves or other organic types of mulching materials,' says Lindsey.

This is especially important for protecting container plants from winter weather because they're more susceptible to freezing than those planted in the ground.

'Aim for about 3-4" deep. That will help keep the soil warmer and protected from winter weather,' advises Lindsey.

If you're struggling to locate mulching materials in your yard, you can purchase mulch online, like this bark chip mulch on Amazon or these rounded coco coir mulch mats for containers from Amazon.

3. Not improving drainage

You may think that stopping watering your container plants in the winter is enough to support their moisture needs, but it would be a big mistake to not take steps to ensure they have good drainage. This is especially true for the coldest, wettest winters.

'Waterlogged soil freezes harder, which can damage roots and cause root death. You do not want your soil dry but also do not want standing water,' explains gardening expert Rachel McClure.

For this reason, you should always select containers with drainage holes. If you have containers without drainage holes, you can add drainage holes to planters and put things in your planters to add drainage, like gravel from Amazon.

You can also elevate pots with pot feet (from Amazon) to improve drainage further.

'Ensure you're also using a potting or container mix for your soil, which is formulated to be well-draining,' says Rachel. 'And avoid placing containers where they will get direct rain runoff or snow sluff from your roof that may overwater your containers,' she advises.

FAQs

Where should I move containers for winter?

Ideally, you should move garden containers under cover for winter, unless you're growing winter plants in them. This will keep spring and summer perennials, and the pots, in fit condition over the winter months. If you can't provide a suitable sheltered spot, like a greenhouse or conservatory, consider winterizing your pots and moving them up against a wall of your house. The warmth of the wall will provide some extra insulation.

The same rule applies for winter window boxes, and for any pots you're planning to put away for winter, our guide to storing terracotta pots in winter can help.

Shop winter container gardening accessories

Overwintering dahlias isn’t a one size fits all approach. Whilst I am more in the camp of ‘you don’t need to dig up your dahlias’, and prefer to cover tubers in a thick mulch, there are many instances where you must dig up tubers to ensure they survive the winter. The main reasons to lift them are if you live in USDA hardiness zones 1-6 or if you are growing your dahlias in pots. These ones need to be dug up to properly protect them from frost and rotting in soggy soil.

I grow a lot of dahlias in pots on my patio, and last winter, after several years of failing, I tried a new method of storing them by wrapping the tubers in burlap sacks instead of leaving them in crates of moss. Here, I’ve detailed exactly why it works and how to do it, so you can be sure of new shoots the following May from each and every one of your tubers.

What you need to store dahlias properly over winter

The reason we tend to dig up dahlias and store them out of the soil over winter is to keep them dry and frost-free, and prevent them from rotting, as both conditions can damage and often kill off tubers.

If you look for advice online on the best way to store tubers, you will get a vast array of different options presented to you, but do they all work effectively?

In previous years, I always thought the way you had to store dahlia tubers was in my potting shed in trays of shallow compost or moss. But every year when I came to wake them up there were some that had gone moldy or mushy, and clearly were no longer viable.

My garden building is really old and, as is often the case with these structures, a bit damp. And these conditions, combined with moisture-loving moss, didn't do my tubers any favors.

Last year, however, I switched up my technique. Once I had cleaned the soil off my tubers and let them dry out for a few days, I wrapped each one separately in a square of burlap fabric, before placing in a crate to store over winter.

I simply cut squares of fabric from a big burlap roll, such as this one from Amazon, but if you want to make it even easier you could buy drawstring burlap sacks, similar to this bulk buy from Amazon.

My potting shed, albeit a little damp, is fairly sheltered, so I usually wouldn't need to give the tubers any further protection against frost. If, however, you wanted to make sure they were extra cosy, you could cover your crates of wrapped tubers with a layer of horticultural fleece, just like this from Amazon, and they'll benefit from an additional layer of insulation.

I wouldn't advise you to leave tubers outside once wrapped, but if you have no other option, or if you are worried about excess moisture in your shed or greenhouse, you could also cover them in a waterproof tarpaulin, (I like this heavy duty one from Amazon).

If you are an organised gardener (unlike me), you'll also need to make sure you label each tuber as you wrap it up. Popping a wooden label, just like these lovely ones from Amazon, in with each tuber or tying it onto the burlap parcel with twine, will help you to identify them correctly when you come to wake them up in the spring.

Essential kit for overwintering a garden

'The moment I step into the greenhouse, it's like a big sigh,' says Bailey. 'It's like a huge exhale, and time slows down. I can just get lost in the present moment, which is one of my favorite feelings.'

What started as a practical necessity for her Tennessee garden (in zone 7b) has become a multifunctional sanctuary where seedlings germinate, food gets dehydrated, vegetables cure, and her three young children discover the rhythms of growing. And unlike the typical utilitarian greenhouse idea, Bailey's space is unapologetically cosy; it even has café curtains hiding the chaos.

A workhorse with style

Seven to nine months of the year, the greenhouse is in constant production mode. 'It's part potting shed where I start all my seeds,' Bailey explains. 'I'm constantly cycling through – something is always growing in the greenhouse.'

But it's more than just a propagation station. Bailey also uses the space to store and preserve food, running a dehydrator for sun-dried tomatoes, onion powder, and chive salt. 'I harvest all the onions, bring them into the greenhouse, and cure them in there in early spring when it's not too humid,' she says.

She also mixes all her own soil in the greenhouse, has dedicated stations for different tasks, and maintains modular trellises that she's constantly rebuilding with twine. 'I can get into a flow state out there,' Bailey says. 'Time just slips away, and I love that so much.'

The greenhouse also serves as her insurance policy. 'I can start anything in here as long as the timing is right, and I can protect it as a young seedling and manage that early part of its life cycle really easily,' she explains. Even during Tennessee's brutal summer heat, seeds continue germinating within the protection of the greenhouse.

What truly sets Bailey's greenhouse apart is how it functions as a family space. During winter months, when the garden sleeps, the greenhouse becomes a destination for her children.

'I take a cup of coffee out there and set the kids up with a little activity, and sometimes we'd do a little winter solstice celebration. I love to take a picnic out there because it's a nice change of scenery. You can hear the rain falling on the tin roof, and we'd light candles and talk about the winter equinox.'

The greenhouse provides those increasingly rare moments of present-moment awareness. 'I like to work on instinct a lot – gardening kind of brought me back to that,' Bailey reflects. 'That greenhouse is a place where I can say to myself, "Today is artichoke day. I can feel it."'

The harvest basket obsession

If there's one element that defines Bailey's greenhouse aesthetic, it's the collection of vintage harvest baskets cascading from the ceiling and walls.

'I'm truly like the basket lady,' she admits with a laugh. Every single basket comes from estate sales or church sales – all purchased second-hand with their own histories intact.

But these aren't just decorative pieces. The baskets are constantly rotating through active duty. Bailey uses them for her own harvests, but they've also become her signature welcome gift.

'Every time I start a new design client or even go to a consult, I will harvest something from my garden and bundle it up in a beautiful basket and gift it to the client,' she explains. 'You end up being a part of someone's family when you're working on their property.'

She also assembles a weekly harvest basket for her parents, who help with childcare. 'The harvest basket, to me, has just become this symbol of shared abundance,' Bailey says. 'Giving someone veggies I grew with my own hands and thinking about them – it's just such a nostalgic symbol.'

The inspiration traces back to her childhood love of Martha Stewart. 'I was born in 1987, so I'm a diehard Martha Stewart lover. She had this basket house on her property, and it just stuck in my brain,' Bailey recalls. 'As I started accumulating these baskets and decided to hang these up throughout the greenhouse and have my own little basket house moment.'

Cosy by design

Bailey wanted the greenhouse to be kitted out so that it was inviting enough that her husband and children would want to spend time there. So she made some decidedly un-greenhouse-like design choices.

First came the café curtains on mounted curtain rods, hiding the undersides of potting tables. 'I am not the most organized. I love a closet that I can just shove things into,' she confesses. 'I knew I'd have to cover the table sides so I could hide the clutter.'

The seating was equally intentional. Bailey spent considerable time hunting for the perfect chairs – cream-colored, with wood detailing. 'I spent an absurd amount of time looking for chairs that made sense in the greenhouse,' she says. 'I'm sure I'll switch them in and out, depending on kind of my mood.'

There's also a chalkboard for notes on what's being seeded and started, and Bailey's latest acquisition: a 100-year-old terracotta bunny pot. 'His whole body is open for me to plant something in, but I'm using it for storage,' she explains. Inside lives her collection of burlap wraps, which she uses to cover carrot seeds for germination. 'They really like darkness and dampness. So I keep them in my little burlap bunny.'

Smart storage solutions

Beyond the bunny, Bailey's most useful storage pieces are large aluminum trash cans on casters – one for sheep's wool, one for compost – plus a big zinc aluminum bathtub for seed starting soil.

'I really don't like plastic. My storage needs to be glass or zinc, aluminum or copper. I'm really particular about that.' The wheeled cans are a particularly genius idea, allowing her to move them around easily and set up different stations.

Bailey has also placed small, wall-mounted metal baskets, such as these from Amazon, holding plant markers and pens, ensuring everything has its place while maintaining the ability to work intuitively.

Shop this space

Bailey's greenhouse proves that a hardworking growing space can be unapologetically cosy and personal.

Here are some curated pieces that capture her nostalgic charm meets high-functioning garden workspace aesthetic.

Bailey van Tassel's greenhouse proves the most functional spaces can also be the personal and unique. By bringing in unexpected elements – expensive rugs, vintage baskets, terracotta bunnies – she's created a sanctuary that works as hard as she does. It's a masterclass in following your instincts and making space for both productivity and joy. The beauty is in the curation, not the perfection.

The Potting Shed is a new series that steps inside the sheds and greenhouses of designers and gardeners to uncover the practical tools and stylish essentials they use every day. We reveal how these spaces are organized, what products they rely on, and how small details – from favorite pots and vintage finds to seasonal gear – help shape their gardening routines.

The theory behind it is simple. Moving pots close together creates a natural microclimate that traps heat and shelters the plant’s delicate roots. Keep this gathered collection of plants in a sheltered area, and you greatly reduce the risk of losing them to frost.

If you are like me and prefer to keep things simple, this is as straightforward a way to protect plants from frost as you can find. I have lots of containers in my garden and move pots together for winter, creating clusters in protected areas. And it has worked to protect pots and planters from frost during my winters in zone 8.

Experts recommend gardeners move pots together for winter – and here’s why

Be prepared, and plan your fall gardening checklist well in advance. Keep a close eye on local weather forecasts and make a plan for which plants in your container garden need to be moved and where.

Good planning means all plants you are overwintering indoors are tucked away before the frosts arrive, and those container plants staying outdoors are protected from winter weather in time.

It should be quick and easy to move pots together for winter, so let’s look at why and where to do it. As a bonus, gardening experts give their insights to help your plants survive winter unscathed.

Why you should move pots together for winter

Plants in containers are more susceptible to frost. A plant’s overall hardiness is notably reduced in a container, as the roots are more exposed to frost. In a flower bed or border, it benefits from the heat and insulation from the ground around it.

However, when planted in a container, there is only a limited amount of soil and the thickness of the pot between the roots and the frost.

Don’t panic, though, as there are many ways to protect container plants from winter weather. There are options of wrapping them, submerging pots in the ground, and mulching them, but potentially one of the simplest ways is to move pots together for winter.

‘Grouping containers helps create a shared microclimate that traps radiant heat and shelters plants from wind exposure,’ says Brandon McCormick, a landscape design and product development director who specializes in planters.

‘When planters are clustered closely, the air between them becomes slightly warmer and more stable, reducing temperature fluctuations that stress plant roots.’

Grouping pots helps retain warmth and shield plants, and they all benefit from a natural barrier against cold weather.

For an efficient method, place the least hardy and most vulnerable plants in the middle where they can benefit the most from the insulation provided by the outer hardier pots.

Where to move pots together for winter

You move pots together for winter to protect them, so picking the right spot to keep them is vital. There would be no point grouping pots in a frost pocket or freezing corner of the yard; you want somewhere sheltered against the worst of the winter elements.

While smaller pots can be kept in an unheated greenhouse, cold frame, porch, or conservatory during winter, larger ones can benefit from the natural warmth and protection provided by buildings or structures.

‘Cluster the pots in a sheltered spot, against a garden fence or against a house wall,’ says Lydia Beaumont, a gardening expert for Gardeners' Yards. ‘This will keep them away from the wind, and they will benefit from the residual heat, especially if it’s close to your home.’

Brandon McCormick hails the natural protection you can take advantage of by placing pots against a south-facing wall, or beneath an overhang or eave. He adds: ‘These locations radiate warmth, block harsh winds, and shield pots from freezing rain.’

South-facing garden walls absorb warmth even from winter sun, and will release it slowly after the sun goes down. This microclimate can be sufficient to protect plants from frost overnight.

Extra expert tips

If you worry that moving pots together for winter may not be enough, are there any other extra measures you can take to protect your plants? Yes, there are, and the experts offered a couple of bonus pieces of advice to help your container plants survive winter.

‘For extremely cold regions, adding a layer of mulch around the base of plants or wrapping the planter in breathable fabric can offer additional root protection,’ advises Brandon. Breathable fabric options for wrapping potted plants for winter include horticultural fleece, burlap, bubble wrap or protective pot covers.

And Lydia adds: ‘Raise pots off the floor, using wood or bricks; this helps prevent the roots from sitting in soggy, cold soil all winter.’ An alternative to wood or bricks is to use pot feet, such as these rubber pot risers at Amazon.

A final option, and an alternative to wrapping individual pots, is to pack straw or fleece between the pots when you move them together, to provide added insulation for the roots.

If you have large tender or borderline hardy plants in your yard, you can wrap them up for winter with horticultural fleece or burlap to protect them from frost. You want them protected before the first frosts in your climate, so check our guide to plants to wrap up in November to make sure you’ve got all these plants covered in time.

It's a pest control method that involves sticking plastic forks in the ground upward to create a barrier for the pests that destroy plants. While it's true the spikey nature of the forks will deter some pests to a certain extent by making it challenging for them to reach the plants, it isn't necessarily the most sustainable or effective method to use.

Instead, you should opt for natural pest control methods and quality pest control tools that will guarantee safety for your crops. Here's a more in depth look at why you shouldn't use plastic forks for pest control and what to use instead.

Why you shouldn't use plastic forks for pest control

The idea of sticking plastic forks in the ground around your plants to create a pest barrier can be a tempting cheap and quick pest control hack, but it's a method Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens, says 'is riddled with potential flaws.'

Though you may not see the damage happening, Drew notes, 'Putting huge numbers of forks in the ground risks lots of potential microplastics ending up in the soil.'

In turn, this affects your soil health and structure, including nutrient-retention, impacting plant growth. Plus, crops growing in contaminated soil can also lead to microplastics being consumed by humans.

Not only this, but plastic forks are not the strongest of materials. Things like adverse weather and small animals may dislodge and break them, instantly removing any pest control purpose they were offering.

By having to then regularly replace the plastic forks, this can also become quite a wasteful method to use.

Above all, Drew notes it may not even work as effectively as you would hope:

'Small pests, such as slugs and snails, aren’t going to be bothered by forks sticking up out of the soil, while you would need huge quantities of forks to efficiently ward off larger ones, like rabbits, rats, squirrels, or cats.'

'It is inefficient method to discourage only a small proportion of seasonal pests, and it is a risk to wildlife, which could scratch or impale themselves,' he explains.

That's where non-toxic gardening swaps and methods come in, offering more reliable protection through natural means and plastic-free products.

'I think the best way to keep pests away from your vegetables over winter is to use netting to cover large plants, cover smaller plants or seedlings with a cloche (glass one from Amazon) or portable cold frame cover, and use companion planting courtesy of aromatic herbs or alliums to deter pests,' Drew suggests.

What to use instead of plastic forks for pest control

Now you know why you shouldn't use plastic forks for pest control, you can explore alternative methods to adopt.

This includes companion planting, where you place the best pest-repellent plants near the plants you're wanting to protect.

These are plants that often give off a scent or release a chemical pests can't stand, like marigolds (seeds from Walmart).

Or, you can use other sources of scents that deter pests, like a peppermint pest spray (from Amazon).

You can also use crushed eggshells in the yard to create a pest barrier, offering a spikey and uncomfortable boundary they won't want to cross.

There are plenty of eco-friendly yard tools that will stop winter garden pests and spring garden pests alike, too. This includes using a burlap barrier or cover, which is made from natural fibers. You can find garden burlap on Amazon.

You can shop some of our top picks of non-toxic winter pest control tools below:

FAQs

Can I use metal forks for pest control?

Yes, you can use metal forks for pest control by placing them in the ground upwards. It creates an uncomfortable barrier for pests to cross, keeping them away from plants. This is a more sustainable option than plastic forks, but it still isn't necessarily as effective as plant covers and companion planting, as many pests will be able to move past and avoid the forks.

While putting winter pest control methods in place, make sure to also take the time to stop pests overwintering in your shed. This is a warm and sheltered spot that can house a range of destructive pests over the winter months.

There are different ways to do this. Layers of fleece or burlap can be tied around larger plants, or cages packed with protective materials can be wrapped around stems to provide a valuable layer of insulation. If you prefer the easy life, you can always purchase ready-made winter covers to protect plants from frost.

If you haven’t protected your plants yet, the clock is ticking. This guide highlights some tender plants to wrap in November, and provides simple tips for materials to use and how to use them.

Tender plants to wrap in November

The ideal time to move specimens to overwinter plants indoors, or wrap tender plants to protect them, will depend on your US hardiness zone.

Any winter protection needs to be in place ahead of the first frost, which tends to arrive in September for zones 1-3, October for zones 4-6, and November for zones 7-9. If you live in the latter zones and haven’t finished protecting plants, the following tender plants to wrap in November are best done sooner rather than later.

1. Bananas

Growing banana trees brings a tropical look to any garden, but they are tropical plants and cannot survive frosts. Even cold-hardy banana trees, such as the popular Musa Basjoo variety, will need winter protection in US hardiness zones 5-8.

To overwinter banana trees, you can bring them indoors. Smaller varieties can be left to continue growing, or larger trees can be cut back and stored as a dormant plant. The third option when growing large banana trees is to wrap them so they can survive winter outdoors.

To do so, cut back the old foliage and create a cage around the tree trunk with chicken wire and stakes.

Pack this cage with straw, leaves, horticultural fleece, or burlap, such as this roll of burlap available at Amazon. For complete protection, a waterproof hood over the cage prevents water getting into the crown and causing rot.

Mulching around the plant is also recommended to protect the roots from freezing temperatures.

2. Tree ferns

Tree ferns are impressive specimens that can reach 15-20 feet, depending on their age and variety. They need winter protection in colder climates. While they can cope with short periods of cold, tree ferns are damaged by prolonged freezing temperatures.

Like bananas, you can winterize tree ferns by bringing them indoors for winter. However, that is not always practical with larger plants, so a better solution might be to wrap them up to protect them from frost.

Remove any damaged or brown fern fronds. Pack the crown with a bundle of straw, burlap, or horticultural fleece, as the crown is the most delicate part of the plant, and tie the remaining healthy fronds upright.

Then wrap the entire plant in a double layer of horticultural fleece, and secure all the covers to ensure they remain in place for winter. Placing bamboo poles, such as these natural bamboo stakes at Amazon, around the plant and wrapping a string around them keeps the covers in place.

3. Passion vines

Passion flowers and passion fruit make great fast-growing climbing plants with their distinctive landing pad-like blooms. They are native to South America, and tender varieties need protecting in colder climates.

In particular, fruit-bearing varieties of Passiflora, such as Passiflora mollissima, Passiflora edulis, and Passiflora ligularis, are the least hardy of the passion vines and need winter protection in US hardiness zones 8 and below.

If you grow passion flowers in pots, these plants can be brought into a sunroom, conservatory, or unheated greenhouse for winter. Plants growing in the ground outdoors should be mulched with compost or bark chips to insulate the roots, and have straw packed around their lower stems.

To retain this straw in place, putting canes around the stems and tying horticultural fleece (such as this high quality garden fleece at Walmart) or burlap in place will create a barrier and act as an extra insulating layer for winter.

4. Potato Vine

The potato vine, Solanum jasminoides, might be one of the easiest climbers for enjoying fragrant white flowers in summer, but it is only cold-hardy to US hardiness zone 9.

It can be an evergreen climber in warmer climates, or by being grown in pots and overwintered indoors, though growers in colder regions do need to wrap the tender vine ahead of the frosts.

The method for protecting the potato vine mirrors the advice for tender passion vines. A thick mulching layer of organic matter, such as compost, straw, shredded leaves, or wood chipping (like this premium shredded wood mulch at Walmart) will protect the leaves.

To complete the job, a layer of straw, burlap, or even fleece can be put over the lower stems and secured in place with canes or a basic wire frame. This is sufficient to keep the most tender parts protected from frost.

5. Cordyline

Cordylines are tropical plants hardy in US hardiness zones 9-11. They can cope with small dips in temperatures, but prolonged frosts and cold winds harm their leaves.

Whether growing common cordylines, such as Cordyline australis (which is classed as an invasive plant in some states), or bright alternatives like Cordyline fruticosa (the Hawaiian ti plant), you can keep them safe in winter by wrapping them. Younger and more tender varieties definitely need protecting in colder climates.

Always wear gloves when handling cordylines to prevent cuts from the foliage. Wrap burlap or horticultural fleece around the plants and tie it in place with string. Ensure the plant is dry when you wrap it up, as excess moisture inside the covering can cause rot.

Remove the wrapping once temperatures warm in late winter to stop the plant from excessively sweating under its winter cover.

6. Olives

Olive trees may be quite hardy, but young trees or those in pots are more vulnerable. Even mature trees may need wrapping against extreme temperatures, as when temperatures drop below 14°F, any olive tree will be damaged.

Olive trees in pots can be moved indoors to a greenhouse or conservatory for winter. Plants outdoors should be given a 2-4 inch layer of mulch and wrapped in frost cloth, or horticultural fleece. Cover the plant in fleece and secure it in place with a string to prevent cold winds from whipping it off the tree.

Instead of making your own covers to protect olive trees from frosts, you can buy purpose-made zip-up covers to make them easier to put on and take off as needed. For example, these plant covers on Amazon come in various sizes and have a zip and drawstring to secure them onto your trees.

7. Melianthus

Melianthus major, also known as the honey bush, is an exotic shrub from South Africa. It always impresses with large and distinctive grey-green serrated leaves, but also emits a unique aroma of peanut butter when the leaves are rubbed or crushed.

It is hardy in US hardiness zones 9-11. Growers in zone 8 or colder have a choice: treat it as an annual or wrap the plant and protect it from frosts. If you can overwinter Melianthus successfully and keep the stems undamaged by frosts, there is a chance to get a display of exotic red flower spikes in spring.

To do this, mulch thickly over the roots and wrap the entire foliage in several layers of horticultural fleece. Installing an additional windbreak around the plant can provide extra protection from cold winter winds that can nip at the foliage and stems.

FAQs

Will a plastic bag protect plants from frost?

It is not advisable to use plastic bags or garbage bags to protect plants, even for one night against a surprise frost. Plastic bags trap moisture and don’t offer insulation against frost. It can mean the trapped moisture freezes, and the bag can even freeze itself to the plant and cause lots of damage. It is always better to use breathable materials such as burlap, frost cloth, or even bed sheets to protect plants from frost.

There are many smaller tender plants you can bring indoors for winter without too much fuss. They can spend the colder months in a greenhouse, conservatory, porch, or in front of a bright window. This guide to tender plants to bring indoors in November highlights a great selection of plants to overwinter indoors, including agapanthus, pelargoniums, succulents, and bromeliads.

When it comes to the fall gardening checklist, you may be surprised to hear getting rid of weeds is actually something to prioritize. A common misconception is that hard frost will kill of weeds for good. In actual fact, many perennial weeds and annual weed seeds will overwinter and return as the temperatures warm up again in spring.

That's why senior horticulturist at Miracle-Gro, Amy Enfield, urges you to get weeding done before the first hard frost comes. Delaying this task until spring could cause weeds to come back bigger than before.

Do you need to get rid of weeds before frost?

'The simple answer is yes,' says Amy. 'In fact, fall weeding is one of a gardener's best-kept secrets. What you do in the fall can dictate how much work you will have to do in the spring,' she explains.

This is true for annual and perennial weeds alike.

'A hard frost will kill off tender, summer annual weeds like crabgrass or spurge, which is helpful. However, it does not kill all weeds. It has no effect on weed seeds already laying dormant in the soil, or the roots of perennial weeds,' Amy explains.

In fact, for seeds laying dormant, frost can cause seed stratification. This is an essential period of cold exposure, kickstarting growth come spring.

'Relying on frost to 'clean up' your garden is a recipe for a weed-filled spring,' Amy warns.

Which weeds do you need to get rid of before frost?

'The most important weeds to remove in the fall are the perennial ones,' says Amy. 'Think dandelions, thistle, bindweed, and couch grass.

'While frost might make their leaves and stems look dead or wilted, their root systems are very much alive. In fall, these plants are in storage mode, drawing energy from their leaves and sending it down to their roots to store for winter,' she explains.

That's why removing them before frost is a good idea. Using a weeder tool will pull them by the root, ensuring they don't come back – like this weed pulling tool from Amazon. It will become impossible to do this once the ground freezes, making the mild temperatures of early-mid fall a great opportunity to get rid of them.

'The other weed group to worry about is winter annuals,' says Amy. 'These are weeds like chickweed, bittercress, and purple deadnettle. Unlike summer weeds, their seeds are triggered to sprout by the cooling soil and shorter days of fall.

'They germinate in fall, grow into small, low-growing plants, and then sit dormant all winter. The moment the snow melts in early spring, they flower and set thousands of new seeds before you've even had a chance to plant your cool-weather flowers and veggies,' she explains.

Fall weeding tips

With so much to get done in fall, it can feel overwhelming to try to get rid of all the weeds in your yard. Amy has a three step approach to help you out:

'First, prioritize removing any weeds – even dead ones – that have a seed head,' she says. This will prevent self-seeding from happening.

'Second, for perennial weeds, you can hand-pull them when the ground is damp from a fall rain (this makes it much easier to get the entire root),' Amy says.

There are lots of weeding tools that can help you achieve this. Including this hand weeding fork from Amazon that allows you to use more force for tough weeds.

'Finally, once an area is clear, cover it with a two to three-inch layer of mulch,' Amy advises. 'This will help prevent any weed seeds, especially winter annual weeds, from getting the light they need to sprout,' she explains.

It's a form of smothering weeds, which can also be done using cardboard and coco coir mulching mats (from Amazon).

There are also plenty of fall mulching materials readily available in the yard at this time of year, including fallen leaves.

FAQs

Can you use weed killer before frost?

Yes, you can use weed killer before frost, but it is not the most eco-friendly choice for getting rid of weeds. This is because weed killers often contain harmful chemicals that can impact the biodiversity and wildlife in your yard. Instead, try manually removing weeds to prevent them coming back. You may also find that using herbicides in the wet weather of fall is less effective anyway because it can wash away.

When you're preparing to get rid of weeds before frost, our guide to how to kill weeds in the fall can help you tackle larger jobs with ease.

That's where my latest find comes in: a plant pot hydroponic growing system at Walmart, currently on sale for less than $30.

It's a stripped back hydroponic system that allows you to get a feel for hydroponic gardening without having to invest in a smart system, only realize growing plants in water just isn't for you. It even has a 4.4 star rating with reviews raving about it as a beginner-friendly product with a charming design, providing an 'enjoyable learning experience for young and old.'

Why try hydroponic growing?

There are lots of pros and cons of hydroponic gardening to consider before investing in a smart hydroponic growing system (like this LetPot model on Amazon).

The pros include the fact it allows you to extend your indoor garden with water culture alone, it can often be done on a tabletop, and it's relatively low-maintenance.

This growing method also uses less water than soil growing, reducing resource usage.

However, what you can grow hydroponically is somewhat limited. Leafy crops and herbs are perhaps the easiest vegetables to grow in water, but the likes of root vegetables are much more challenging and not always suited to water culture.

There is also a science to hydroponic gardening and it can be easy to accidentally make hydroponic gardening mistakes.

This includes getting the water-based nutrient balance correct for the plants you're growing (using products like this hydroponic fertilizer from Amazon).

The maintenance of hydroponic growing can also be costly, with smart systems requiring electricity for water pumps and lights.

With all of this in mind, the Walmart pot plant hydroponic growing system for under $30 is a real steal to test out if water-based growing is something that aligns with your gardening desires.

Why shoppers love the Walmart hydroponic growing system

Reading through the reviews of the Walmart plant pot hydroponic growing system, it's obvious this a beginner-friendly product for those just starting to experiment with water culture.

'I'm a long time gardener. I'm just getting started with hydroponics. I'm fully capable of building my own system, but I chose to buy a complete kit to learn the process,' one 5-star reviewer writes. 'Doing this takes allows me to focus on learning the metrics. This one was the most versatile for the money,' they add.

It's true that this product offers some flexibility around how you use it. You can either fill the largest chamber with water to try growing hydroponically, or if that isn't working out for you, rather fill it with soil.

A lower chamber holds water to support moisture management in this method, with a provided piece of cotton rope delivering water to plant roots.

'[It]can be used as an automatic watering pot for plants or a germination station,' one shopper explains.

As for the ease of hydroponic growing with this kit, customers are satisfied.

'I would suggest anybody who wants to grow their own food while the winter is here to buy this,' one shopper writes. 'My green onions and basil are growing very nicely,' they add.

It should be noted the Walmart pot plant hydroponic growing system is a very basic hydroponic garden set-up.

'Be advised this system does not use a pump as it is based on the Kratky method,' one reviewer writes.

This is a low-effort hydroponic method where plants are suspended above a reservoir of water, roots submerged. No water pumps are used to circulate the water, something you will find in a more expensive smart hydroponic growing system.

The downside of this is the water will need changing more frequently to keep it clean.

However, a shopper notes: 'a pump can be added.' You can find a water pump on Amazon for less than $10.

Customers also note it is easy to put together, almost immediately ready for growing: 'Easy to assemble, easy-to-use, already have seedlings growing and it's only been a week,' one person notes.

The Walmart plant pot hydroponic growing system has capacity for six plants and includes a starter kit of baskets for seeds, which has proven to impress buyers:

'The pod pot organization is light-years ahead of any other system I've seen,' one reviewer says. 'Planting, managing and harvesting is much, much easier and the extra space between the pods permits more growth,' they add.

It also has a timer function for the incorporated grow light, which has made it even more low-maintenance for customers.

Another bonus is its design, resembling a regular indoor plant pot and neatly subtly slotting in to an indoor garden display without bringing a laboratory feel.

'Looks cute on kitchen countertop,' one shopper describes.

While it may not have all the gadgets an upmarket hydroponic growing system provides, the Walmart pot plant hydroponic growing system still delivers results. For just $29.99, it's an affordable way to find out if hydroponics is for you.

Shop hydroponic growing accessories:

If you're keen to experiment with water culture, why not also try growing houseplants without soil?

Most effective on a larger scale, prairie planting is based on the vast open spaces of the natural prairies. But it can also be used in a more modern and minimalist way, which is easier to incorporate on a domestic level.

Read on to discover how the concept of prairie minimalism puts a contemporary twist on this style, and how to get the look in your backyard.

What is prairie minimalism?

There is no denying that large-scale prairie planting can look dramatic over the winter months when grasses and seed heads are highlighted by the low sun and morning frost. But it is late summer and early fall when a prairie garden really comes into its own.

Based upon a wide variety of native grasses and late-blooming perennials, prairie planting forms a stunning tapestry with beautiful drifts of color and texture.

On a smaller scale, such as an urban garden border, a diverse range of grasses and herbaceous perennials can look overcrowded and jumbled, so how can you use native prairie plants but still achieve clean lines and a modern feel?

One answer is to use a limited number of species and a constrained color palette in a simplified pattern.

A sustainable approach

Prairie planting and prairie minimalism do not just look visually attractive but can offer sustainable benefits to the world around us. From an environmental approach, prairie minimalism uses native plant species that, once established, are drought-tolerant and need considerably less irrigation than a traditional lawn or border.

Consisting of plants with varying depths of root systems, prairie planting can help prevent soil erosion as the deep roots, especially, help stabilize the soil.

Furthermore, by using native plants suitable for the local conditions, the need for any fertilizers and other chemicals is greatly reduced.

When it comes to the ecological benefits of prairie planting, the diversity of the plants used can help attract wildlife, such as birds, pollinators and other beneficial insects, to your garden.

The perennial flowers, or forbs, provide an important source of nectar for bees and butterflies and come winter, the seed heads will help feed the birds and plant stems provide shelter for insects.

An additional benefit for time-poor gardeners is that this style of planting is considerably low-maintenance. With time saved watering, feeding, weeding and deadheading, there is more time to enjoy the garden and benefit from it therapeutically.

How to achieve a prairie minimalism style in your yard

In contrast to the multitude of plant species found in a natural prairie, the key to achieving a more modern and minimalist style is restraint.

When asked how modern minimalist prairie planting differs from traditional prairie style planting, author and specialist in natural landscape design Benjamin Vogt responded, ‘Far less species diversity. In a wild meadow or prairie, there will be dozens upon dozens of species in a square meter. Minimalism, by its very definition, attempts to distil the echo to its most emblematic core. That might be one grass species or just a few.’

For a modern minimalist design, gardeners often look towards more structure and clean lines. To help achieve this, Benjamin suggests, ‘keeping the grass to one unifying species (likely a groundcover or matrix species that's shorter) and then having only 1-3 forb species in bloom at one time.

'Those forb species may also be highly architectural in their structure, or have a mounding, topiary-like shape to them, such as Baptisia minor and Smyphyotrichum oblongifolium.'

Commonly known as dwarf false indigo, Baptisia australis var. minor is a herbaceous perennial that is native to the North American Prairies with an upright habit. Providing a long season of interest, Baptisia minor produces white flower buds that develop into lilac-indigo flowers that are adored by pollinators.

Furthermore, if not deadheaded, black seed pods appear and stand over winter, extending its appeal. Suitable for growing in zones 3 to 8, you can purchase Hazzard's Baptisia Australis Minor seeds from Amazon.

Plants for the prairie minimalism look

Prairie planting comprises a mixture of grasses and flowering perennials and the ratio of these plants can differ depending on the desired effect.

For example, a natural prairie may consist of roughly 75% grasses and 25% flowers, but a specifically designed small modern prairie garden may lean towards more color and wildlife attraction and a ratio closer to half and half.

Native perennials commonly used in modern prairie planting include the durable and heat-tolerant black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia). Producing golden-yellow petals surrounding a deep brown centre, Rudbeckia hirta ''Indian Summer' flowers from July into the fall and tolerates zone 5 and above. You can purchase Indian Summer Black - Eyed Susan from Nature Hills.

Another native perennial often specified in prairie designs is the purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea). Producing purple petals that droop away from its brown cone, this plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds and is easy to care for. Suitable for growing in zones 3 to 8, you can purchase NatureZ Edge Purple Coneflower Seeds from Amazon.

The drought-tolerant common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is another native option. Being pollinator-friendly, it is known to be a magnet for all sort of bees, butterflies and hoverflies and is well suited to zone 4 and above. Outsidepride Achillea Millefolium Wild White Yarrow Seeds are available from Amazon.

For grasses, bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) and dropseed (Sporobolus) are favourable due to their colors, textures and ability to provide a dense matrix and movement.

Widely used for prairie and native planting schemes, little bluestem is a hardy perennial grass with blue-silver foliage that takes on an autumnal-brown hue and produces white fluffy seedheads in the fall.

It remains compact with a final height of 2-3 feet and will cope with zone 3 and above. You can purchase Little Bluestem Grass from Nature Hills.

For smaller spaces and a more structured feel with clean lines, Neil Diboll, author and President of Prairie Nursery in Westfield, Wisconsin, suggests, ‘using the short grasses, especially Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) and Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) in monocultures, blended with wildflowers amongst them.’

Neil goes on to say that, ‘a particularly effective approach is to use Prairie Dropseed as a transitional border between a formal lawn and the “wilder” prairie garden. These grasses can also be planted in winding “rivers” of monocultures side by side, punctuated with taller individual specimen plants (Baptisias, Silphiums, etc.) and groups of 5-7 or more showy flowers, as appropriate for the species.'

For compact planting areas, he also suggests ‘focusing on specific plant foliage and flower color combinations to achieve maximum interest in a small space.’ When it comes to planting against a boundary, Neil recommends that ‘tall plants can have a role in small spaces, especially in “native border gardens” against walls, and that big plants can be utilised in a backyard corner to achieve an exclamation point using a very few individual plants such as Eupatoriums, Silphiums and Vernonias.'

With climate change and global temperatures rising, gardeners are looking for more ways to make their gardens more sustainable. One such way is to reduce the size of your lawn or to create a meadowscape instead.

Defined simply as growing a variety of native wildflowers and grass species, after the initial investment, you can look forward to reduced watering and mowing and enjoy observing all manner of wildlife instead.

The most efficient way to harness the power of leaves is to chop them. However, running over piles of leaves with a lawn mower or chopping them up by hand takes a lot of time and effort. If you want a faster alternative to chop your fall bounty, I spotted a Worx electric leaf mulcher that can shred an impressive 53 gallons of leaves a minute, plus it has 35% off at Amazon.

Collecting leaves is an important job for any fall gardening checklist, and if, like me, utilize this free resource to its maximum by collecting every last leaf, this piece of gardening kit might well need a place on your Christmas list.

Why a Worx electric leaf mulcher makes life easier in the fall

An electric leaf mulcher comes to the fore in the fall when foliage drops from the trees. It offers a quick and simple solution for several fall gardening tasks, most notably mulching, producing leaf mold, or speeding up compost making. Even if you simply bag up leaves and get rid of them, it will dramatically reduce the number of bags you have to deal with – but you should use them, and here’s why.

Chopped leaves are a fantastic fall mulching material. This free resource can be used on flower beds, around shrubs, or on top of pots to protect plants from frost, suppress weeds, and boost soil nutrients to feed plants as they break down.

When using fallen leaves as mulch, you want to chop them up, as it allows rain to penetrate the soil. A leaf mulcher is the quickest and most efficient way to do this, especially for large piles of leaves.

Other than mulch, the other main way your plants reap the rewards of all those fallen leaves is by making leaf mulch, a nutrient-rich product you can use to feed plants or fertilize a lawn.

It can take 2-3 years to make leaf mold, but you can speed up the process and get usable material in a year by chopping the leaves before storing them, as they will break down much quicker. If you want to use leaves to make compost, it is also best to chop them up before adding them to the heap.

Many gardeners will routinely chop up their leaves by running over them with a lawnmower, or using a strimmer to break them up. It means collecting leaves together, going over them with a machine, and then raking them together again and collecting them.

There is no denying that using an electric leaf mulcher makes the process much quicker and simpler. It means you can gather leaves together, put them through the machine, and collect them into a bag attached beneath to use, doing the job in rapid time and turning leaves into chopped-up goodness in seconds.

The Worx electric leaf mulcher has a high 11:1 mulching ratio. It can turn 11 bags of leaves into one bag of mulch, making it an ideal garden tool for anyone with a medium or large-sized yard who needs to deal with a lot of leaf waste each fall.

This leaf mulcher can shred through 53 gallons of leaves a minute, thanks to its 13.0-amp motor. The higher amp rating than other machines allows it to mulch tougher debris without slowing down performance; it can handle small branches as well as leaves with ease.

It shouldn’t be relied on to mulch lots of branches or tough pieces of debris, though; its primary focus is leaves. The electric leaf mulcher has a heavy-duty string trimmer line to chop leaves. While such a system is less dangerous than a metal blade, it will wear faster than a metal blade if lots of sticks are put through the machine.

You want to be able to move such a machine around the yard, rather than having to bring all the piles to the machine. At 20lbs, the Worx electric leaf mulcher is sturdy enough to stay in place, but portable enough to take around the garden without any struggles.

It is also easy to assemble, with no tools required. It is the same for disassembling it at the end of the season, when all the parts nestle into each other so it can be stored away in a garden shed or garage without taking up too much space.

What shoppers say about the Worx electric leaf mulcher

The Worx electric leaf mulcher has received 4.2 stars from over 7,000 reviews and has been praised for its effectiveness at processing leaves and for ease of use, which are definitely aspects buyers will consider when choosing a leaf mulcher. For example, a recent buyer commended it for being ‘very easy to set up and dismantle’.

But, as its primary use is to chop leaves, it is positive to see its performance at that core task reflected in strong reviews from shoppers.

One shopper says: ‘It absolutely pulverizes leaves, chopping them up into confetti-sized pieces. I used to get about 15 bags of leaves on the first raking of the fall season, but with this device: 0 bags. I was able to spread all the minced-up leaves on my lawns and gardens to nourish them in the spring.’

Another described it as a ‘great tool’ for creating natural mulch and fertilizer. ‘I have two acres with mature trees, and this machine can clear about 50 bags of leaves in 2 hours,’ they add. ‘It is also electric, so it does not pollute.’

The manufacturer claims a bag can be fitted underneath the machine to collect the leaves as they pass through the mulcher.

However, it is worth noting that this bag is not included in this deal. It means you either need to buy a bag to fit the machine separately, or place a large bucket or trug underneath to collect the leaves as they come through the mulcher.

I mentioned earlier that the heavy-duty string trimmer line has benefits and disadvantages, and one shopper noted it ‘wears down rather quickly’.

‘When the line wears down, you start getting build-up on the sides and you need some way of agitating the load in order for it to chop back up again,’ added the reviewer. ‘The good news is changing lines is pretty easy and you are back in business pretty quickly.’

Electric mulchers aren’t always the first products that people think of when planning to clear their garden of fallen leaves. Many gardeners opt for leaf blowers or leaf vacuums, but what are the differences?

A leaf blower, unsurprisingly, blows leaves into piles to collect. A vacuum collects the leaves into a bag, but it often also has the function to blow leaves, making it a superior option. The best models will also mulch leaves and collect them into bags, ready to put straight onto your flower beds or lawn.

Shop alternatives for collecting leaves

Whether you want to grow fruit trees or soft fruit bushes, both can be sourced as bare-root plants to add to your garden this month. Bare-root plants can be planted anytime from November to March, as long as the ground isn't frozen or waterlogged. They arrive without soil around the roots, and ideally, they want to be planted right away.

I have taken advantage of the cost-effectiveness of bare-root fruit over the years. I’ve bought and planted bare-root fruit trees and bushes in gardens I worked in, or in my growing plot at home. They always offer great value and are easy to deal with, so I want to take this opportunity to highlight some of my best fruits to plant in November.

7 fruits to plant in November

Late fall and early winter can be a potentially busy time when growing fruit. We have mentioned already that it is a perfect time for planting, but the window to prune apples, pears, quince, medlars, grapes, and currants also opens. There is no rush, though, as you have until late winter to do your fruit tree pruning, but the above are all jobs to consider adding to your fall gardening checklist.

1. Blueberries

• Hardiness - Zones 4-9 (depending on variety)
• Location - Sunny and sheltered
• Fruits - Midsummer to early fall

Blueberries are stunning plants that produce tasty berries packed with vitamins and antioxidants. They are native plants to the US, with varieties of blueberries suited to different climates from US hardiness zone 4 to 9.

The two main types are the northern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum), suited for colder climates and by far the most common type of blueberries for home growers, and the lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium), more commonly seen in the wild or on farms. Some blueberry varieties are self-fertile, but all will do better with a partner plant.

The best time to plant blueberries is in the fall or early spring. You can get container-grown and bare-root blueberries in the fall to plant in a sunny and sheltered area of the yard. They prefer moist soil types and a more acidic soil pH.

To create a perfect environment for growing blueberries, test your soil beforehand. You can incorporate some ericaceous compost into beds or grow blueberries in pots filled with a compost for acid-loving plants.

You can get bare-root highbush blueberry plants at Amazon to plant this month.

Shop the range of blueberry plants at Amazon

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Shop the range of blueberry plants at Burpee

Shop the range of blueberry plants at Nature Hills

2. Gooseberries

• Hardiness - Zones 3-8
• Location - Sunny
• Fruits - Mid-to-late-summer

Gooseberries are renowned for their heavy crops of tangy fruits for use in sweet and savory dishes. The fruits tend to be green or red, with the edible berries typically classified as culinary, dessert or dual-purpose.

The good news is that gooseberries are self-fertile, so you can get a harvest with just one bush, though any yield will improve with multiple plants.

You can grow gooseberries as standard bushes, or they can be trained to grow against walls for harvests in smaller spaces. Plant them in fall or spring in a sunny, sheltered spot, though gooseberries can grow in shade.

They like moist, well-draining soil, and bushes should be at least 6-8 feet apart. It would be a gooseberry growing mistake to crowd plants together, as they won’t yield well and will be at increased risk of fungal diseases due to a lack of air circulation.

Keep gooseberries well-watered, regularly fed, and pruned annually once established to give the bush a strong shape. You prune gooseberries in late winter to early spring, and the bush benefits from a good mix of the most productive wood for the best yield.

Shop gooseberry plants at Amazon

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Shop gooseberry plants at Burpee

3. Aronia berries

• Hardiness - Zones 3-9
• Location - Sunny
• Fruits - Late summer to fall

Aronia berries, also known as chokeberries, are cold-hardy fruit bushes ideal for gardeners in northern climates, as you can get a crop down to US hardiness zone 3.

The bushes are covered in strong, tart berries rich in vitamins and antioxidants. These are best enjoyed cooked, though, as freshly-picked fruits will not be to everyone’s taste.

Grow aronia berries in a spot where they can get six to eight hours of sunlight a day, and in slightly acidic, well-drained soil. For comparison, aronia berries do like the same conditions as blueberries, making the two a good partner crop in any productive fruit garden.

The bushes are best planted in fall or spring, and the addition of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, before planting will improve the structure, water retention, and boost soil nutrients, to get newly planted aronia berries off to a great start in their new home.

4. Currants

• Hardiness - Zone 3 (depending on the variety)
• Location - Full sun or partial shade
• Fruits - Summer

Currant bushes are reliable, high-cropping soft fruits for any garden. The fruits are high in vitamins and antioxidants, and the bushes can be cold-hardy down to zone 3.

Whether you choose blackcurrants, redcurrants, whitecurrants, or pinkcurrants (the latter of which makes a more unusual fruit to grow), you’ll be able to enjoy masses of fruits year after year for jams, syrups, jellies, snacking, or to add to desserts.

Plant container-grown or bare-root currant bushes in the fall. The best spot is full sun; the plants can grow in part shade, but the fruits will be sweeter and riper if they get the most sun. However, in the warmest US hardiness zones, try to give them some shade from the scorching afternoon rays.

Currants can be grown as free-standing bushes or trained to grow as fans or cordons, so you can get great fruit harvests in smaller spaces. Protecting the soft fruit with netting once the berries are forming will prevent birds from stealing all your precious fruit.

For a beautiful and tasty addition, this bare-root Red Rovada currant bush at Burpee provides late-season harvests of juicy red fruits.

Shop currant bushes at Amazon

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5. Rhubarb

• Hardiness - Zones 3-8 (depending on the variety)
• Location - Full sun
• Fruits - Spring to early summer

Rhubarb blurs the lines a bit; it is botanically a vegetable, but used as a fruit in pies, desserts, and crumbles. As it pairs so well with other fruits in this list in baking, it seems worthy of inclusion here, especially as fall is an ideal time to plant rhubarb.

The simplest and most cost-effective way to start growing rhubarb in the fall is by planting dormant crowns. You can also divide rhubarb crowns in the fall for new plants, provided the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.

It can be confusing with dormant crowns, as they resemble an old clump of solid root, and are far from what a traditional plant looks like. But don’t make the rhubarb mistake of planting the section upside down. Look for buds or signs of old growth to identify the top, and plant it with these bits just slightly above the soil line.

You will need a bit of patience when you plant rhubarb in the fall. Don’t harvest any rhubarb in the first year; instead, allow the plant to focus on developing a strong set of roots. That patience pays off, as a rhubarb crown can live for a decade or more.

I have grown 'Victoria' rhubarb in many gardens, as it is a delicious and reliable variety. You can get a pack of two dormant bare-root 'Victoria' rhubarb crowns from Burpee to add to your yard.

6. Raspberries

• Hardiness - Zones 3-9 (depending on variety)
• Location - Sunny
• Fruits - Summer or fall (depending on variety)

Bare-root raspberries are commonly available to plant from late fall to early spring. You can plant raspberries at any time when the soil is not frozen or waterlogged in a sunny spot in your garden.

Raspberries thrive in sunny and sheltered spots and fertile soil enriched with lots of organic matter. You can grow raspberries in pots, but they will have a shorter lifespan than canes planted in the ground.

You will see different types of raspberries to grow when shopping for bare-root plants. The main distinction between the two is summer-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries. They differ by when they crop (as the titles suggest) and also how you should train and prune raspberries each year.

An easy way to reward yourself with the biggest, tastiest, and longest harvest of fruits from your raspberry plants is to plant a mixture of the types.

I also advise alternatives to traditional red raspberries, such as planting yellow or black fruits, such as this Fall Gold bare-root plant from Burpee, which produces pale yellow fruits.

Shop raspberry plants at Amazon

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Shop raspberry plants at Nature Hills

7. Top Fruit

There are many fruit trees you can plant this month. It is an ideal time to add bare-root fruit to your garden for years of wonderful harvests. The likes of apple trees, pear trees, plum trees, cherry trees, and more can all be planted during dormancy, starting in late fall.

All fruit trees will benefit from compost or well-rotted manure added to the planting site ahead of time. However, do not fertilize fruit trees with additional feed in the planting hole.

You want newly-planted trees to put out strong roots in search of water and nutrients, while adding product into the hole actually encourages the roots to remain there rather than spread, which risks the long-term stability of the tree.

After planting new fruit trees, it is advisable to stake them and mulch around the base to retain moisture and smother weeds. If you fear rabbits or other pests may nibble them, you can protect the bark with tree protectors, such as these at Amazon.

Now that you’ve identified some fruits to plant in November, here’s a quick planting tip to help your new plants establish faster in their new environment. When you plant fruit trees or bushes, add some mycorrhizal fungi around the roots.

Using granular mycorrhizal fungi like this at Amazon when planting helps fruit trees or shrubs establish, as they can absorb additional water and essential plant nutrients through forming a symbiotic relationship with the fungi. This one-off application, when planting, is all that is required throughout the plant’s lifetime.

As a heartfelt caveat, there is always a time and place for a chrysanthemum. My grandfather grew them; I love them for how hardy they are in floral arrangements, and I even like how the foliage smells. But among the plethora of unusual and underrated plants there are many more November flowers to consider planting for blooms late in the year, that will carry through to winter.

I've worked in professional floral design for almost a decade, and am heavily influenced by the seasons, so I always notice if I see color in a front yard at this time of year. If I’m not growing it already, I add it to my planting list. So, if you’re looking to add a touch of sophistication and late-fall charm to your own garden, these are the plants you should be looking out for.

1. Nerines

These electric-pink fall flowering bulbs thrive in sunny, dry spots, and their timing is perfect for adding joy and style to a November garden. Nerines also look incredible when contrasted with bronzy autumn foliage.

Ideal in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, these jewel-pink flowers erupt on bare stems just as most gardens are fading, adding exuberant color that feels refined yet playful.

Plant nerine bulbs, available from Amazon, in late spring in a sunny, sheltered spot. Good drainage is key. These flowers enjoy it when they are tightly packed in a pot and are somewhat congested, so don’t worry about trying to divide clumps.

2. Sasanqua camellias

Camellia sasanqua start flowering as early as October and go right through into December. Their delicate, often single or semi-double ruffled flowers come in blush pinks, white, and coral tones, and exude charm and romance.

Hardy in zones 6 to 9, they are ideal for Southern gardens, or sheltered spots elsewhere; the glossy evergreen foliage also adds structure and depth of color when little else is blooming.

This 'red tip' camellia from Burpee is an ideal choice.

Plant in acidic, well-drained soil in dappled shade. Camellias don’t like being waterlogged, and enjoy a pine needle mulch to maintain acidity in the soil.

This particular variety would work really well as a focal shrub in a city courtyard garden.

3. Salvia 'hot lips'

Look around you and you can’t fail to miss the diminutive yet bright white and crimson blooms of salvia 'hot lips'.

Salvias keep blooming in much of the country until hard frost hits. They simply don’t want to quit!

Their jewel-tone flowers add vibrancy and are also useful magnets for late-season pollinators in zones 7-10. This plant is ideal for bridging the gap between seasons.

They do like to be planted in a predominantly sunny spot, and will thrive even in dry conditions once established.

In colder regions, you can treat as a tender perennial to cut back over winter and they will put on new growth the following spring. To ensure your plant lasts as long as possible into the winter, remember to give it a ‘Chelsea chop’ in midsummer to encourage bushiness and renewed blooms.

You can find salvia hot lips starter plants from Amazon.

4. Kaffir lily

Hesperantha coccinea, also known as the Kaffir lily, is a South African native perennial flower that will bloom right into November in sheltered spots. Its elegant coral and crimson spires light up the dullest days of fall.

Hardy in zones 7 to 10, this flower loves a damp spot, and will work beautifully by water, in a rain garden or in moisture-retentive borders. It will also be absolutely fine in light shade, though prefers sun.

To keep flowers going for as long as possible, deadhead spent blooms continuously into the winter.

5. Fuchsia

In my professional flower grower opinion, fuchsias are the most underrated of all November flowering plants. They are glorious, and flower profusely until the hard frost hits and yet still maintains a subtle quality.

Ideal for hardiness zones 6-9, this hardy species continues flowering into late autumn and early winter.

There are so many different fuchsia varieties. One of my favorites is 'Anabel', which produces soft pale pink and white double flowers. I also love the red varieties, and this red and white fuchsia plant from Amazon would never fail to bring brightness and joy in November.

Fuchsias prefer moist, well-drained soil in partial shade or morning sun. They make ideal plants for informal hedging or mixed borders.

It's usual to also see some rose varieties blooming brightly this month and into the winter. If you're lucky enough to have some that are still flowering, we recommend doing these three tasks now to care for roses in November, to ensure you get even better and longer lasting flowers next year.

When growing a monstera, it can be a disconcerting sight to find it with black spots on its beautiful fenestrated leaves. This is especially because this issue can appear very suddenly, sometimes without any warning. The good news is, it's fairly easy to diagnose the problem and make the right adjustments to prevent it worsening.

In fact, there's usually two common indoor plant mistakes behind this issue: too much water and not enough light. This dangerous combination will stress your monstera, weaken it, and cause it to decline in health and appearance. Here, I explain why this is the case, what to do if you find black spots on monstera leaves, and how to prevent it happening ever again.

The cause behind black spots on monstera leaves

When I noticed black spots on my monstera, the first thing I did was take a look at the moisture levels of the soil.

Using my soil moisture meter (from Amazon), I could see the soil was still substantially wet, even though I had watered it a couple of weeks prior.

If you also find your plant's soil isn't drying out for weeks at a time, it's time to assess its location in your home.

When placed in too little light, houseplants will take much longer to soak up water. The reason being lower light = a slower rate of transpiration, a process responsible for the movement of water around a plant. Sufficient sunlight is required for this transpiration to take place.

That's why watering houseplants correctly goes hand-in-hand with positioning it an optimal spot.

For a monstera, this means somewhere with bright but indirect sunlight. Direct sun exposure may cause leaf scorch, as their foliage is sensitive due to being native to jungle environments, growing in partial shade beneath canopies of trees.

I had my monstera tucked in a shadier spot of my home, quite a few feet away from a window. The black spots also appeared during winter when daylight is limited, reflecting the fact it was not getting enough light.

Alongside this, I was watering my monstera on a set schedule, meaning it was receiving more water than it could soak up. The result? Too-wet soil and a lack of light, stressing it out and causing the black spot reaction.

This unfavorable growing environment can cause some other symptoms, too. For example, you may see your monstera leaves curl, your monstera drooping, and your monstera leaves turning yellow.

Other causes of black spots on monstera leaves

If the main culprit behind black spots on monstera leaves doesn't seem to fit your situation (i.e your monstera is growing somewhere bright and the soil dries out sufficiently between watering), there could be another underlying issue.

For example, it may be that your monstera has a common houseplant pest.

In particular, thrips on houseplants can cause discoloration on leaves. This is because they're sap-suckers, leaving behind dark, rusted spots, sometimes appearing black.

Other pests causing damage like this include aphids, which also feed on foliage.

Check under plant leaves to look for pests, as they like to hide there. You should then take steps to eradicate the pest you're facing. Neem oil (from Amazon) is a solution many houseplant owners turn to for a range of indoor plant pests, and you can also try making a homemade bug spray.

Don't forget to isolate your monstera from other houseplants to prevent pests spreading, too.

What to do if you have black spots on your monstera leaves

When you find black spots on monstera leaves, it's a sign the growing environment needs adjusting.

If your soil is overly wet, to the point where you squeeze a handful and water drips out, it's a good idea to repot your monstera with fresh houseplant potting soil (from Amazon). I've even tried making my own monstera potting soil, with well-draining, nutrient-rich materials, which my monstera has been thankful for.

You'll also need to prune your monstera to return it to a healthier state. Keeping the damaged foliage on your plant will only continue to weaken it.

Take essential pruning tools (like these pruning shears from Amazon) and cut at the base of the plant, removing any severely damaged stems. Make sure to not break the one third pruning rule, which could cause even more stress for your monstera and stunt its growth.

You'll also need to move your monstera somewhere brighter, but not too close to a south-facing window where it could become scorched by direct sun. Consider using a grow light for houseplants to boost light levels if needed, like this grow light from Amazon.

Something to be aware of is that a drastic change in environment can shock your plant. If you are making quite a dramatic move in terms of the amount of light your monstera will receive, try moving it gradually.

I have done this by moving my monstera closer to a window every week, helping it to acclimatize until it reaches its final position.

The final thing to do is be wary of watering going forward. Use your finger or a soil moisture meter to check if your plant is ready to water every time, rather than sticking to a strict watering regime.

Remember, seasonal changes in room temperature and light will impact how much water your monstera needs at any one point in the year.

FAQs

Will black spots on my monstera turn green again?

No, any monstera foliage color distortion, including black spots and yellowing, will not turn green again. This is because it is damage to the foliage of your monstera. Keeping it attached to your plant will only weaken it, as the plant focuses on trying to keep that damaged stem alive. Instead, you should take sharp pruning tools and remove damaged foliage, redirecting the plant's energy to pushing out new, healthy growth.

Another trick that can help improve light exposure for your monstera is staking it (like with this moss pole from Amazon). This is especially true for training an overgrown monstera, where larger foliage may be blocking light to lower leaves.

Our Houseplant Accessory Edit

One of the best ways to use Christmas plants is in a festive floral centerpiece that adds some real wow to your interior space. And there is still time to grow one now with flowering indoor plants or a selection of fragrant bulbs that have been tricked into flowering early.

We've chosen some old favorites that we think are a must at Christmas (the spotlight is always on amaryllis), plus a couple of more unusual ideas that we hadn't thought of before. Choose one of these ideas or all of them, as they will work together beautifully if you want a more maximalist look.

7 of the best plants to grow now for festive decorations

The good news is there is it's not too late to grow you own festive floral centerpiece if you start now.

Choose from our mix of the best indoor flowering plants and forced bulbs for Christmas then add your own creative styling for a standout display.

1. Poinsettia

A collection of potted poinsettia plants can be grouped together to form a stunning festive floral centerpiece. Also known as the Christmas star, the poinsettia has spectacular red-colored leaves – a new take on Christmas foliage ideas – that feel perfect for seasonal displays.

You can also break with tradition by using softer pink and cream varieties for a more contemporary feel. Find red poinsettias at Costa Farms and pink poinsettias at Amazon.

Widely available from garden centers at this time of year it's easy to pick up a selection of these beauties then get creative with your tablescaping display. They look good paired with metallic silver or gold planters, combined with candles in complementary colors.

Keeping your poinsettias looking good is easy. Water them sparingly only when the compost feels dry. Mist the plant every few days to keep the leaves in good condition, as this will increase humidity.

Ensure leaves are dust-free by wiping them with a soft cloth regularly so the plant can photosynthesise.

2. Hellebore

Beautiful hellebores with their gorgeous blooms are stars in the winter garden during the festive season. For this reason the varieties that bloom in early winter are also known as Christmas roses, available here from Amazon.

But did you know you can grow them indoors too? The trick is to plant up a selection of hellebores in pots then bring them indoors for the celebrations.

They will need to experience a period of cold temperatures outside in order to bloom indoors, so once potted up leave them in your porch or other cool place until you need them.

Give your plants a period of time to adjust indoors before using them for your centerpiece. It's a good idea to put them in a cold room near a north-facing window, and keep the soil moderately moist.

Try pressing a layer of moss in each pot as a soil topper, and adding baubles or other decorations for a Christmassy touch. After blooming, simply trim off the spent flower stems and transfer your plants outside to the garden again.

3. Amaryllis

The gorgeous blooms of amaryllis are one of the most eye-catching to use when creating a festive floral centerpiece. Also known as hippeastrum, amaryllis bulbs are readily available here from Amazon, and they're so easy to pot up and grow.

Perfect for styling up tables and other spaces with that Christmas feel, they come in velvety shades of traditional dark red as well as crisp white tones if you like something that feels more contemporary.

If you choose the largest bulbs you may even get several flower spikes so you can enjoy your display for longer.

Pre-soak the bulbs for a couple of hours. Use a pot slightly larger than the bulb and fill it with compost. Ensure that the top two-thirds of the bulb are above the surface of the compost. Drench with water and leave to drain.

Stand the pot in a bright, warm place, but not near a radiator. Water sparingly until the new leaves develop, then more often once they do. After the plant has flowered, move it somewhere cooler, as this encourages the bulb to go dormant and hopefully it will flower again next Christmas.

4. Narcissus paperwhite

With their crisp white flowers and wonderful scent, it's no surprise that paperwhites are one of the most popular flowers to use when creating a modern festive floral centerpiece.

They work well potted up as an indoor plant. It's a good idea to nestle the bulbs closely together to get a densely planted look like this design. Find the Ziva cultivar of paperwhite narcissus at Amazon.

Part-fill a pot with multipurpose compost, water well, then arrange the bulbs evenly on the surface with the pointed tips facing upwards. Add more compost until the bulbs are completely covered, including the growing tips.

Then transfer the pot to a cool, dark place. Monitor for the next 4-6 weeks, moving them to a warmer area as they begin to grow. As soon as the flowers emerge, water regularly so that the soil stays evenly moist.

5. Cyclamen

If you're looking for another easy way to decorate with plants during the holiday season choose a cyclamen plant or indeed several. There are plenty to choose from at this time of year including deep red and pure white varieties that will add a lovely touch to your festive interior.

They're one of the showiest flowering houseplants around, and their marbled foliage adds a beautiful detail too.

Create a festive floral centerpiece using a cyclamen at the heart of your display then layering up twigs, berries and seedheads to get a look like this design.

When choosing a plant to buy find a gorgeous one like we used in our design (pink cyclamen here at Amazon), and look for one with plenty of buds that will keep the flowers coming right through the holiday season.

If the plant doesn't flower well, this could mean the room is too warm, so find a cooler spot for it. Remember to keep snipping off any faded flowers to keep new ones coming along. Water from the base and aim to keep the soil constantly moist.

6. Snowdrops

A few delicate snowdrops arranged in bud vases makes the prettiest festive floral centerpiece as part of your Christmas table ideas. Cut to display in mini vases, their subtle beauty and fragrance can really be appreciated.

There are lots of options if you want snowdrops for Christmas. Different types of snowdrops flower at different stages and snowdrops can be found in flower as early as late September if you want to pick your own from the garden. Look for early flowering varieties like Galanthus nivalis 'Viridapice'.

You can also grow them in pots outside and after a suitable period of chilling transfer them indoors and arrange them together as a centerpiece. Specially prepared, pre-chilled snowdrop bulbs are also available for forcing into bloom by Christmas.

Sear the stem ends in boiling water for 10 seconds, then transfer them into cold water to extend their vase life. Arranged on a cake stand like this design, with a scattering of Christmas baubles and string lights, they will be set off to perfection.

Whichever method you choose once they're in flower keep them cool on a north-facing windowsill then move them into position when you want to use them as part of your tablescaping.

7. Hyacinths

Sweet-scented hyacinths are one of the most popular choices for coaxing into flower in time for Christmas. Prepared hyacinths are bred to bloom much earlier and it’s this variety that is grown mainly as indoor plants.

Buy prepared hyacinth bulbs that have been pre-chilled and are widely available, and these beauties will add their own special elegance to your festive floral centerpiece.

After you have potted up the bulbs put the pot in a black plastic bag and transfer to a cool, dark place. Check once a week for growth and water if the compost is dry. When shoots are around 2 inches tall remove the black plastic bag and move the pot into the light.

Hyacinths can also be grown by forcing bulbs in water. Use glass forcing vases, with the base of the bulb sitting in water so you can see the roots forming. The same process of keeping them cool and dark applies.

There are limitless ways to add style and elegance to your Christmas table centerpiece ideas, whether it's seasonal touches from natural berries and pine cones, to wrapping the whole thing in delicate fairy lights to give your plants and flowers an unashamed festive flourish.

To find out, I take a deep dive into this potential method to discover if it is a potentially untapped way to protect plants from frost and create a beautiful festive atmosphere, or if it is just a social media trend best described as all style and no substance.

I spoke to gardening professionals and electrical experts to highlight the theory behind using festive lights to warm plants and whether it is a proven, safe method or one fraught with dangers. Do Christmas lights keep plants warm outdoors over winter? Let's find out.

Do Christmas lights keep plants warm? The theory behind it

When you live in climates with frosts, all thoughts must turn to protecting tender and borderline plants to prevent them from succumbing to winter colds. Frosts can do terrible damage to plants, and failure to act can see you lose much-loved plants.

You can overwinter plants indoors, wrap potted plants for winter, and use materials such as horticultural fleece or burlap to insulate plants in flower beds or container gardens. The possibility of using Christmas lights to keep plants warm offers an intriguing solution, one that is not only practical but attractive.

‘Holiday lights can help bring the season to life, and, in some cases, provide just enough warmth to help plants through a chilly night,' claims Donna Letier, CEO of Gardenuity. ‘Traditional incandescent string lights emit a gentle heat that can raise the air temperature a few degrees, sometimes enough to take the edge off a light frost.’

As touched upon by Donna, the type of light is critical, as not all Christmas lights keep plants warm. Modern LED lights don’t give off any warmth; you need to use old-school incandescent lights.

Elizabeth Waddington, garden designer and consultant, says of old incandescent bulbs: ‘They only give off a little heat, but that can be enough to stave off the cold for more tender plants, though only in very specific circumstances.’

‘The issue is that almost all Christmas lights are LED lights now,’ adds Lindsey Chastain, experienced homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck. ‘Those don't produce much, if any, heat at all. So they look pretty, but do nothing at all for your plants as far as warmth.’

For suitable Christmas lights to keep plants warm, they must be loosely wrapped around plants. As Donna Letier adds, ‘Plants need to breathe, and close contact with bulbs can cause leaf burn. Think of it as giving your plants a warm scarf, not a tight hug.’

You may also want to add an extra layer of materials to trap the heat created by the bulbs. Gardeners using this method often add frost blankets or burlap over the plants. But when you do, it is important to prevent the material from touching the bulbs.

Any heat emitted by old-school incandescent lights may be capable of raising the temperature a few degrees. However, it is only ever enough to provide short-term relief from frosts, rather than being relied on to protect tender plants throughout a long winter.

It may be suitable for chilly nights in warmer climates, rather than a solution for US hardiness zones with prolonged freezing temperatures. But there are also risks involved, which we’ll discuss below.

Do experts recommend it as a winter solution?

‘I do not recommend relying on holiday lights as a strategy for overwintering plants, says Andrew Hagerty, the director of horticulture for Waterfront Botanical Gardens. ‘While incandescent lights do generate some heat, their primary function is illumination, and a significant number would be required to transfer sufficient warmth to a plant to withstand cold temperatures.’

You may need lots of light to raise the temperatures, and there is no guarantee of consistent warmth. Parts of the plants closest to the bulbs may be warmed, even enough to stress or burn them, while other parts may benefit very little. Large amounts of warmth can be lost to the night air, especially if there are no extra covers.

Anna Ohler, the owner of Bright Lane Gardens, also casts doubt on the feasibility of successfully using this method in her Michigan winters, saying: ‘Using decorative lights poses an unnecessary fire risk and additional cost to your utility bills, especially if you use low-quality lights.’

The potential fire risk is something that will likely put off many gardeners. It may be difficult to find incandescent bulbs nowadays, as most festive lights are modern energy-efficient LEDs, and these older bulbs increase both the cost of warming plants and the associated risks.

‘I would not recommend using lights for warmth because the safety risks often outweigh the benefits,’ says Daniel Vasilevski, the owner of Pro Electrical. ‘Old-style incandescent bulbs, such as the larger C7 or C9 bulbs, are inefficient and create heat, which is what one wants. The downside to these hot bulbs is that they cause a very real danger when mixed with water, frost, and plants.’

‘I see gardeners suggesting people wrap the plants with burlap or frost cloth over the lights,’ adds Daniel. ‘To put a flammable substance like a cloth on top of hot incandescent lamps is a serious fire risk.’

If cost and potential fire risks don’t put you off, what about attracting more pests? Ed Dolshun from Catchmaster warns that warming plants in this way may actually invite pests.

‘The gentle heat from the lights could be just the shelter that insects are looking for in cold weather,’ he claims. ‘Normally, we see these guys move indoors looking for warmth, but this could just be the next best thing. You might see spiders, and fungus gnats take advantage of the microclimate and use the plant's base or even the soil as a nesting site.’

Kit to help you overwinter plants successfully

Overwintering and protecting plants takes time, and sometimes it is not always necessary. A case in point is dahlias.

Dahlias are popular tender plants that many gardeners lift to overwinter indoors. They are not plants that can tolerate frosts, so gardeners around the globe routinely lift the tubers and overwinter dahlias indoors. But it is not always required, and whether you need to do this annual task when growing dahlias depends on your climate.

As a rough guide, if you are in zones 2-7, they definitely need lifting, while if you garden in zones 8 and higher, you can leave dahlias in the soil. Those in zone 7 can risk leaving theirs in the ground over winter with a thick layer of mulch, provided they have well-drained soil.

If you don’t need to lift yours, it can save you time and effort during what is a busy time of the gardening calendar.

Meet our experts

While birth month flowers and birth month trees are rooted in ancient and modern cultural traditions, birth month fruit trees are less official, but just as special. These are fruit trees that are looking their best, either with fruit or flowers, in the month they're associated with.

It's a seasonal approach that celebrates the best fruit trees in every month. They make for beautiful, personal gifts, too, providing years of enjoyment for loved ones. Here, we've put together our top pick of birth month fruit trees for you to explore.

January: Orange

In the midst of winter, citrus trees shine. At this time of year, orange trees are laden with bright round fruit in warmer climes like the Mediterranean and even Florida, ready for harvesting.

When harvesting oranges, always make sure they are ripe because they aren't climacteric, i.e. they don't continue ripening after being harvested.

A bonus for holiday gifting: you can grow oranges as houseplants, often the preferred growing method for those in colder climes.

Though, you should be aware that your indoor orange tree will need plenty of sunlight and high humidity to fruit.

This calamondin dwarf tree from Amazon is good option for indoor growing.

February: Almond

Almonds are one of the first fruit trees to produce blossom in the year. In February, the gorgeous almond blossom is out to wow with its sweet pink-white blooms.

You can grow almond trees across US hardiness zones 7-9, and almond tree blossom is best spotted in California from February to March.

To add one to your yard, plant an almond tree (from Nature Hills) in fall, giving it time to establish and settle over winter.

If you're looking for an almond tree inspired gift for February-born friends and family, consider almond tree seeds (from Amazon) or this almond and vanilla fragrance oil (from Amazon) for something a bit different.

March: Plum

For March birthdays, the birth month fruit tree is plum. As spring starts to arrive, plum trees become adorned with dainty white, pink, and red blossoms. Leaves are yet to develop, so the rounded blossoms are center stage on bare branches.

There are lots of types of plum trees, but some of the best for showy blossom include the American plum (seedling from Amazon), which is hardy across US hardiness zones 3-8.

If you struggle to get a plum tree to fruit, you may need to prune your plum tree or fertilize it during spring and summer.

April: Cherry

There's no better suited birth month fruit tree for April than cherry trees, with the much-adored cherry blossom at its peak during this month.

Flowering cherry trees are fairly straightforward to care for, particularly Japanese flowering cherry trees (from Nature Hills).

Pruning your cherry tree in late summer will help it recover in time for another season of blooming next year.

Note: the fruit flowering cherry trees produce tends to be sour, not ideal for eating. For sweet edible fruit, consider growing a cherry fruit tree instead. You can use these cherry tree seeds from Amazon for a challenging, but rewarding growing project.

May: Apple

By the time May comes around, apple trees are in full blossom. Branches are covered in new leaf growth and blossoms of pink and white.

These blossoms have a delicate, floral scent, and they're a plant for pollinators, with bees and butterflies buzzing around them in spring.

As one of the best trees for spring blossom, apple blossom is even the state flower in Arkansas and Michigan – two important locations for the apple growing industry.

If you're a May baby and want to incorporate an apple tree in your yard but don't have the space, consider choosing a dwarf variety. For example, this 'Tangy Green' columnar apple tree from Fast Growing Trees.

June: Mulberry

As the summer months begin, mulberry trees prepare to ripen fruit for harvesting.

They have glossy heart-shaped leaves with clusters or red and purple berries. In the US, they're hardy across zones 4-10.

It is possible to grow mulberry trees in pots, making them good additions to sunny patios. This compact mulberry tree from Amazon is a lovely choice for this.

Don't forget to prune your mulberry in late winter to keep it healthy and encourage new growth in spring.

July: Peach

Our birth month fruit tree for those celebrating birthdays in July is peach. This is because July is peak time to harvest peaches, once the fruit has a sweet aroma, is blushing in color, and is softer to squeeze.

If you want to challenge yourself to grow a peach tree, you might want to consider growing peaches in a greenhouse. This can provide the right level of warmth and humidity for peach development, and it can prevent issues like peach leaf curl, where excessive wet conditions cause distorted and weak foliage.

Explore peach tree varieties available at Nature Hills.

August: Fig

When growing a fig tree, your fruit should be ready to pluck around August as this is a popular late-summer fruit.

These fruit trees thrive in hot conditions, growing best across US hardiness zones 7-10.

There are some fig growing mistakes to be aware of, including incorrect watering and fertilizing. Too much of either could cause root rot and hinder fruit production.

Find fig starter plants on Amazon.

September: Medlar

A more unusual fruit to grow for September's birth month fruit tree: medlar.

This tree starts to transition into a tree for fall color as September rolls around, as the long oblong green leaves turn bronze and yellow.

This is also the time a medlar tree has ripe fruit, ready for harvesting.

Medlars have a unique appearance when ripening, reaching a point of being overripe, almost looking rotten, before being ready to eat.

It's a less common fruit to find in stores, but you can try growing your own medlars by planting these medlar tree seeds from Amazon.

October: Pear

October is arguably the busiest harvesting season for gardeners, with so many fruits and vegetables on offer this month. One of these fruits is pear, making it the perfect October birth month fruit tree.

You can grow a pear tree across US hardiness zones 4-9, depending on the variety. You harvest pear trees in fall when the fruit starts to lighten in color and they should give slightly when squeezed gently.

If you need some extra help to get a pear tree to fruit, try using a potassium-rich pear fertilizer (from Amazon).

Find a pear tree to plant in your yard on Amazon.

November: Pomegranate

November is the month of the pomegranate, when these large, round red fruits are ready for harvesting.

In the midst of dull fall days, the vibrancy of these fruits uplift the backyard landscape.

To grow pomegranates from seed, you need to ensure the seeds are cleaned of the aril (the red fleshy coating). Make sure to also plant them in a well-draining soil and provide plenty of sunlight.

Purchase pomegranate seeds for planting on Amazon, or choose a pomegranate tree to plant from Fast Growing Trees.

December: Olive

While you may struggle to think of a fruit tree relevant to December, olive trees are one of the best choices for this time of year.

In Mediterranean climes, olive trees are harvested from late fall into early winter.

While it can be hard to grow olive trees in milder regions (it's hardy across zones8-10), you can grow olive trees indoors as houseplants.

Though, it should be noted they don't tend to fruit indoors, needing specific outdoor conditions for fruit production, including cross-pollination.

Nevertheless, potted olive trees make for beautiful, sophisticated ornamental indoor plants with eye-catching silver foliage. You can find an olive tree at Walmart.

If you are going to attempt to grow your own birth month fruit tree, make sure to read our guides on how to plant fruit trees and fruit tree pruning mistakes to help you succeed.

Shop Birth Month Tree Gifting Ideas

There is something so wonderful about using natural materials from your very own backyard to create a Christmas wreath idea, and clearly, many of you agree. It adds an authenticity and personal touch that simply can’t be matched by a bought wreath.

A beautiful design that balances structure, winter color and fragrance can absolutely come from your own backyard, you just have to know the best things to select to showcase the textural beauty of the season. Here’s what to gather for a wreath that looks professionally styled in every way, but feels authentically homegrown.

Natural, structural base options

Natural wreath bases provide a sustainable and solid structure to work from. They’re biodegradable and will give a finished wreath an effortless, organic shape.

My preference is to opt for willow or hazel stems, as they are flexible and strong, and therefore easy to bend into circular shapes without snapping.

Both would create a beautiful organic base that’s lighter and more natural-looking than wire rings. The bark also gives a rustic finish that you might want to leave peeking through the foliage for an intentionally artisan feel.

Other options you could consider using from your yard are grape vines or wisteria whips. Clematis and honeysuckle stems are also ideal for smaller wreaths; when dried, they form elegant, lightweight structures with delicate movement. You can leave the fine tendrils on show to give a lovely sense of natural flow.

If you don't have any of these vines or twigs growing in your yard, you can find natural grape vine wreath bases from Amazon.

Evergreen foliage

Evergreens are the foundation of a long-lasting wreath. Aromatic, hardy, and rich in seasonal color, they are an essential component. I always mix textures and colors for a professional and layered look.

Conifers (cedar, juniper, fir, cypress) and spruce form the bulk of professional wreaths. Their soft needles layer beautifully and release a clean, resinous fragrance. Juniper berries also bring subtle color and visual interest. They will also last for many weeks outside in the cold, looking fresh well into the New Year.

Yew is another good option for its deep green and dense foliage. Yew adds luxurious depth and I find it ideal for creating definition and contrast within a holiday wreath.

Pittosporum happens to be my favorite evergreen foliage of all time. With its neat leaves in variegated shades, its great for a compact, manicured texture. Perfect for filling gaps and balancing the more dramatic stems.

Eucalyptus of all varieties is beloved by florists at this time of year for its silvery tone and wonderful scent. It softens the deeper greens and gives an ethereal, frosted effect. It will dry out more quickly than the spruce and conifers, so be aware of this if you want your wreath to look fresh all season long. You might need to replace a few stems or simply make it closer to Christmas.

Finally, magnolia grandiflora, with its glossy green tops and burnished copper undersides, has become a favorite, adding instant elegance and warmth. You don't need a lot for full and fast coverage.

Textural elements

These elements add tactile contrast, and are often the things that will bring the biggest personal touches to a wreath.

Dried seedheads (allium, nigella, teasels, poppy pods, honesty) are my absolute go-tos, as these sculptural forms add both interest and individuality. Whatever your favorite flowers were this year in the garden, you can create a nod to them in your holiday wreath. They echo the natural rhythms of the garden in winter, and their muted tones pair beautifully with evergreens.

Ornamental grasses, such as Miscanthus, Pennisetum, or Panicum, bring softness and movement. They’re also ideal if you want to make your design more asymmetrical or contemporary.

Birch twigs or curly hazel are super effective for a touch of height or to extend the silhouette beyond the ring, giving the wreath an airy, expressive quality.

Berries, fruits and scent

Everyone loves a berried accent in a wreath. Choosing red and copper tones adds warmth, while evergreen herbs release scent each time the door opens.

Holly is your classic choice, but best used sparingly for elegant impact. Its glossy leaves reflect light, while berries offer vibrant pops of color. My only issue with holly (similar to juniper) is that it is tricky to handle. If you can find some younger foliage, the spikes will be softer on your hands. Or, you can opt for some lightweight gardening gloves, such as these ones from Amazon, to protect your skin.

Skimmia is another reliable shrub for glossy, long-lasting clusters of red or pink berries that don’t drop easily. I also don't think you can beat rose hips for naturalistic warmth and movement.

Adding bay leaves and rosemary sprigs will add to the fragrance and would be perfect for a kitchen door or herb-inspired design.

Luxury natural accents

These finishing details will create natural focal points. Some of these also reflect current design trends, blending natural with subtle luxury.

Personally, I love dried hydrangea heads, and as I have several shrubs in my garden always want to add these into my wreaths. They are so popular with clients, too. Their faded petals add volume and a soft antique quality that I adore. A pro tip is to dry them first before adding them to a wreath. If you snip and add straight away the heads may go brown rather than retain their color in the wreath.

Everlasting flowers are still a huge trend, so if you grow any statice, strawflower, or achillea, these would be perfect to add to a wreath, bringing subtle pops of color. They also retain their shapes beautifully when dried.

Twigs and pine cones are almost non-negotiable for me. Even just three pine cones clustered in one area of your wreath creates a natural focal point where you could add a velvet ribbon or a few berries.

Lastly, you might consider naturally molted feathers if you can find any in your yard. They are not for everyone, but they can add sophistication, especially in earthy, tonal schemes.

What's growing in your backyard right now will depend on where you are in the country, your climate and hardiness zone. So to finish, I've listed a few of my favourite wreath-making materials that can be found depending on your location.

In Southern states, make use of glossy magnolia leaves, citrus foliage, pittosporum, seed pods, and dried grasses. In the Northeast and Midwest, you can use spruce tips, juniper, holly, yew, and rose hips, which thrive in these states and hold up in freezing weather. While on the West Coast, opt for olive branches, eucalyptus, manzanita, and redwood trimmings to bring sculptural variety.

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I was getting started on holiday gift shopping when I stumbled across this absolute find: 55% off a timeless bird rain chain from Walmart.

This rain chain is charming in design, with a rustic finish. I had a look at the reviews and customers are delighted with how it elevates their backyards, commenting on its 'good workmanship' and saying it is 'lovely to watch when it's raining' – it's no surprise it has a 4.8 star rating. Plus, it's an incredible 55% off in a flash deal that won't last long, so now is the time to get your hands on it.

Why use a rain chain?

A rain chain is a handy tool to have in your hard to collect rainwater, something that allows you to save money on your water bill as you can use the harvested water for your plants and other yard tasks.

It essentially works by connecting it to a structure, like in place of a gutter downspout, capturing rainwater and directing it to a collection point, like a water barrel.

In doing so, rain chains become a beautiful water feature in the yard. Water trickles down the chain, providing both visual interest and a tranquil sound.

It's an easy way to incorporate sustainable garden ideas in your yard, and one of the best garden water-saving methods. Other reasons to install a rain chain include preventing soil erosion by slowing down the flow of downpouring water.

There are lots of styles of rain chain to choose from, but the style of the Walmart bird rain chain is arguably one of the most effective because the decorative funnels along the chain help to maximize the rainwater captured. Here's what the reviews say about it:

What shoppers love about this bird rain chain

The first thing to note about this Walmart bird rain chain is just how much it enhances the backyard as a peaceful space:

'Very pretty rain chain,' one shopper says. 'Looks nice hanging from the trellis by French doors,' they add.

'This is so cute. I hung it so I can see it front my porch when it rains,' another person notes. 'Adds so much charm to a garden,' one individuals adds.

A bonus, 'when it rains they make a soft melodic sound,' a shopper shares.

As for practical use, the reviews reveal it works excellently: 'perfect catcher chain,' one reads.

It also appears to be easy to install, with shoppers noting it can be quickly set up on patios and porches. It comes with an attached hook, so it can be hung up with ease.

The quality is also something multiple customers praise:

'This chain is really nicely built,' one shopper says. '[It's] quality heavy weight,' another describes.

Customers even say 'Walmart definitely had the best price' for rain chains and the quality of it makes it 'so worth the money.'

Currently on offer for $16.99, this seems like a deal too good to miss out on.

Perhaps the only downside to note is the fact it doesn't come with a collection point. 'I just wish it had a bowl for the water to gather at the bottom,' one reviewer says.

Nevertheless, the Walmart bird rain chain can be easily attached to a rain chain anchor basin (like this one from Amazon).

Shop more stylish rain chain accessories

Before installing your rain chain, don't forget to read our guide on rain chain mistakes to avoid and the best places for your rain chain to get the most out of it.

If you want to expand your display of flowers, it is an ideal time to plant roses. For established roses, November is perfect for mulching plants, protecting container-grown roses, and performing essential maintenance to guard against wind rock and black spot.

After pruning, watering, feeding, and deadheading all summer, you may think the hard work of growing and caring for roses is over for the year. However, there are a few jobs still to do, and the results are worth the effort. To keep your roses in tip-top shape, we highlight some important November rose care jobs that make a big difference come next year.

What to do with roses in November

A little work goes a long way. These November rose care jobs are simple to do, and won’t take up many hours of your day. Remember to add the following to your fall gardening checklist to ensure you have beautiful, healthy rose blooms to enjoy come summer.

1. Plant bare-root roses

Fall is an excellent time for planting roses, whether bare-root or container-grown plants. Bare-root roses are commonly available during dormancy from November to March and offer a convenient, more budget-friendly way to expand your collection of rose garden plants.

Provided the ground is not frozen, plant bare-root roses as soon as possible after receiving them. If the ground is unsuitable, you can keep plants in their packaging in a cool, dry place for a couple of weeks. Otherwise, you may need to heel-in plants until the time is right for planting.

It is beneficial to incorporate lots of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, into the site before planting. This will help improve the structure and boost soil nutrients, helping the new rose to establish strong roots.

Soak the roots for at least two hours before planting bare-root roses to rehydrate them. You then want to position the rose in the planting hole so the graft union at the base of the stem is an inch below soil level. Refill the hole around the rose, firm the soil down, and give the plant a good watering.

See the range of roses at Nature Hills

See the range of roses at Amazon

See the range of roses at Walmart

2. Mulch your plants

Mulching should form an integral part of winterizing roses. If you haven’t done it yet, add it to your to-do list for November.

Adding a layer of organic mulch two to three inches thick will insulate the roots and protect them from winter frosts. It also retains moisture in the soil, adds nutrients as it breaks down, and suppresses weeds.

The best mulch for roses includes garden compost, leaf mold, and bark chippings, such as this organic premium mulch at Amazon.

Mulch around the base of the plant in a circle as wide as the plant’s branches, but don’t pile it against the stems. Keep the mulch at least an inch from the stems to avoid rot.

3. Prune to prevent wind rock

Knowing when to prune roses is important. November is not a time to fully prune shrub roses, which should be done in late winter or early spring. However, it is a time to shorten stems to prevent wind rock if you have tall roses or a garden in a windy location.

Wind rock can damage roots as plants rock back and forth and, in extreme cases, cause roses to be blown over and ripped from the ground due to strong gusts.

As for how to prune roses so they don’t succumb to wind rock, it is as simple as cutting back tall stems by around a third. You don’t need to be too bothered about neatness, just cut to an outward-facing bud. You’ll return to the shrubs in late winter to do more detailed pruning.

What is important is ensuring your pruning tools are clean and sharp, so you make proper cuts and prevent spreading diseases. A simple pocket-sized sharpening tool like this on Amazon can be used to sharpen pruning shears while working in the yard.

4. Remove fallen leaves to prevent black spot

Rose black spot is a troublesome disease. You can use fungicides to treat the rose disease, but if your rose has had black spot for one year, it increases the chance of it getting infected next year. However, there are measures you can take in the fall to reduce those chances.

You should collect any foliage that has fallen from the bushes and dispose of it. Infected leaves left on the ground will harbour the fungal spores. These can overwinter in the soil and then infect the plant again next year, usually by being splashed up onto the leaves during rain or watering.

Collect and bag up any foliage showing signs of disease, including powdery mildew and rust, as well as black spot, and bin them. If diseased foliage remains on the plant, prune it off and then sanitize your pruning shears. Never use these leaves to make compost, as you can spread the disease around the garden.

Mulching is also helpful in preventing black spot. It buries the spores deeper in the ground, reducing the chance of them splashing up and re-infecting your roses.

5. Moves roses in pots to a protected spot

Shrub roses are hardy plants, but they are more vulnerable when grown in containers. The roots of container plants are more susceptible to frost, as there is only a thin layer of compost and pot between their roots and the cold.

If you grow roses in pots, move them to a more sheltered spot to protect them from the worst of the winter colds. Protecting pots in winter can be as simple as putting them next to a wall, moving pots close together for added insulation, or putting them into an unheated greenhouse.

However, if your roses are in large planters and are not easy to move, there are simple ways to protect plants from frost. The pots can be given extra insulation by wrapping them in burlap, bubble wrap, or protective winter covers, such as these frost protection bags at Amazon.

FAQs

Do I need to water roses in November?

It is unlikely you’ll need to water roses in late fall or early winter, unless the season is unusually mild or dry. You want to avoid overwatering outdoor plants, especially during colder weather, as it increases the risk of root rot.

Can I fertilize roses in November?

You should not fertilize roses this month. Doing so risks the development of fresh, new growth that will be damaged by winter frosts, leaving the rose susceptible to pests and diseases. Wait until early spring to give your roses their first feed of the new season.

Can roses bloom in November?

Some rose varieties, such as repeat-flowering cultivars, may still bloom in November in milder climates. If you are experiencing an unusually warm fall for your region, it may cause your roses to bloom for longer into the season.

Now you’ve got November rose care covered, it's time to add some more monthly jobs to your checklist. Luckily, we’ve got you covered. This guide to plants to prune in November reveals shrubs, fruits, and perennials that may need some TLC. And this piece on plants to propagate in November highlights some great opportunities to expand your collection by taking plant cuttings this month.

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While giving your shed a tidy up may be low down on your fall gardening checklist, it's actually quite important to give it some TLC before you retreat indoors for winter. Pest control experts say that messy, unorganized, debris-filled sheds are the perfect spot for overwintering pests to hide. When spring comes around, they may just make their way into your yard and cause mayhem among your planting. Plus, they could cause damage within your shed in the meantime.

Luckily, it's super easy to fix this issue. Here, pest control experts share which type of winter garden pests may use this space in your yard and five quick steps to stop pests overwintering in your shed.

Which pests overwinter in garden sheds?

There are quite a few pests that can be found lurking in garden sheds in winter, according to pest control experts.

'Throughout winter, pests will ultimately search for warmth, shelter, food, and water. Your garden shed provides all of these things in one relatively safe space,' says Daniel Baldwin, entomologist at Hawx Pest Control.

'Boxelder bugs, for example, are likely to search for warm locations, squeezing through tiny cracks and gaps in doorways or windows. These areas offer protection, allowing them to overwinter indoors until spring arrives.

'Rodents, such as rats and mice, may also be tempted into your garden sheds during winter due to the cold temperatures and food sources becoming harder to find outdoors,' Daniel notes.

Other pests that destroy plants and small mammals that may cause damage to your shed contents may also find a hiding spot here, as unorganized sheds with piles of debris, dirty tools, and open food sources (like bird seed) provide the perfect spot for some shelter during winter.

Not spotting them can risk bigger issues, like nests and infestations, which is why taking preventative measures now is well worth it.

Luckily, there are a few things that can be done to stop pests overwintering in your shed:

5 ways to stop pests overwintering in your shed

No matter what shed idea you have in your yard, it's important to give it some attention before the depths of winter arrive. Messy spaces are more susceptible to attracting pests. That's why pest control experts recommend following these five steps to get your shed in order ahead of the coldest season:

1. Seal all entry points

The first thing to do when trying to stop pests overwintering in your shed is make it impossible for them to get in.

'Inspect all exterior walls, foundations, and vents to ensure they are sealed and in good condition,' Daniel advises.

'Remember, mice can fit through a hole that is less than 1/16 inch in diameter, so be sure to fill any cracks or holes you find with caulk (from Amazon) or foam,' he adds.

Make sure any windows are shut and consider putting in place draft excluders (from Amazon) if your shed door has a gap beneath it.

As a bonus, this will also help weatherproof your shed for the harshest weather conditions and keep your contents inside safe and secure.

2. Remove food sources

If your garden shed doesn't provide what pests are looking for, they're less likely to take up residence in it. This includes removing food sources.

'Many people store things like bird seed or pet food in sheds, so many pests have all the food they need to survive,' says Jeff Schumacher, owner at All-Safe Pest & Termite. 'You can easily cut off their food supply by sealing containers,' he adds.

These bird seed storage containers from Amazon are a good choice, for example.

Bulb and seed storage is also important, like this seed tin from Amazon. Make sure to keep your potting shed organized with these containers neatly put on shelves to ensure they don't fall over and accidentally open.

3. Get your tools in order

It's important to clean your gardening tools and store garden tools properly over winter. Leaving them dirty and lying around is more likely to entice pests in.

You can use warm water and cleaning vinegar (from Amazon) to get your tools in prime condition, before hanging them up with a wall tool organizer (from Amazon) or placing them in a storage box.

The same goes for bags of potting mix and compost. Leaving them open provides a toasty spot for destructive critters to crawl into. When you later spread it in your yard, you may be delivering pests directly to your plants.

'Keep tools, bags of soil, and other items organized on shelves or in lidded plastic totes to ensure pests aren’t able to use them to hide,' Daniel says.

These jumbo sealable storage bags from Amazon may be useful in securing soil bags, for example.

4. Clear out debris

Just like fallen leaf piles and deadwood in the yard, any garden waste and debris sitting in your shed will attract pests. It provides shelter and hiding spots for them, away from the cold temperatures outdoors.

'Pests often thrive in messy spaces, so it’s really important to keep your shed clean and clutter free,' says Daniel. 'Sweep the floor to remove debris, and avoid storing items in piles on the ground,' he says.

Shed storage can be really handy for this, like these resin boxes from Amazon.

'You also shouldn’t stack things right up against walls, and make sure water drains away from the shed so it doesn’t stay soggy,' says Jeff. 'Less moisture and clutter make the shed far less inviting to insects,' he notes.

5. Use organic pest repellents

As well as getting your shed in ship-shape for winter, you can be extra cautious by using natural pest control methods to repel pests from your shed.

'The scent of peppermint is strong and is often disliked by certain pests, which can deter them from living in areas where it’s present,' says Daniel.

'Homeowners can dilute a few drops of peppermint oil (from Amazon) with water in a spray bottle and apply to the areas where you have seen pests, such as behind shelves, in corners, and near entry points or cracks within walls,' he advises.

You can also purchase peppermint pest spray (from Amazon) and use spices to deter common garden pests, like chili powder.

FAQs

What should I do if I find mice in my shed?

If you have only spotted one or two mice, you can take measures to make your shed less attractive to them. This includes removing food sources and tidying up tools and debris to remove shelter. You should also seal any entry points. If you have a a larger rodent presence in your shed, it's advised to seek professional pest control help.

While preparing your yard to stop pests overwintering in your shed, why not also take the opportunity to declutter your shed? Your future self will thank you for getting it in shape now, ready for a busy spring gardening season.

Get your shed organized with these accessories:

While it is possible to protect plants from frost with plastic, it isn't necessarily the most sustainable garden idea. There are plastic frost cover alternatives that will last much longer, offer more breathability, and ensure microplastics don't leach into your soil.

Here, I explore why plastic isn't the best material to use for frost protection, plus the very best plastic frost cover alternatives to shop instead.

Can you cover plants with plastic to protect plants from frost?

Just like using bed sheets to protect plants from frost, plastic can work effectively to create a protective frost barrier.

In fact, you can purchase plastic frost covers (like this from Amazon), which are designed to trap warmth and keep frost out.

However, this isn't necessarily the best thing to use to cover plants. This is because plastic isn't breathable, fostering an environment for moisture to build-up. This can lead to fungal issues and mold, harming the health of your plants.

Plus, plastic frost covers aren't a great option if you're looking to make non-toxic gardening swaps in your yard. Microplastics can leach into your soil, impacting soil health and structure, water retention, and plant health.

Instead, breathable, non-toxic materials offer a more balanced environment for plants while still effectively protecting plants from frost. Plus, they're durable and are made to last for years to come.

6 plastic frost cover alternatives

To help you make greener choices while overwintering your garden, I've pulled together six of the best plastic frost cover alternatives to shop now:

FAQs

Can I use plastic as a weed barrier in the yard?

While it is possible to use plastic sheets as a weed barrier, it isn't always the recommended option. This is because microplastics can leach into soil, and it isn't necessarily the most durable material to use. Instead, opt for eco alternatives. This includes organic materials like bark chip and mulch, or natural fabrics like burlap.

Opting for plastic frost cover alternatives will reward you not only with winter protection, but also long-lasting materials that can be reused each year.

If you're keen to make more eco-conscious choices in the garden, read our guide to zero waste gardening and using kitchen waste in the garden.

As a warmth-loving plant, they do require winter protection unless you are in a tropical climate. Gardeners experiencing frosts should take steps to overwinter their bird of paradise plants to ensure they survive the winter unscathed. This can involve providing extra protection outdoors or bringing the plant indoors during colder months.

To help you find the best way to grow bird of paradise plants through the colder months in your climate, I consulted a tropical plant expert. This guide covers how to overwinter bird of paradise plants indoors and outdoors, so you can enjoy their spectacular blooms year after year.

An expert guide to overwintering bird of paradise plants

A bird of paradise makes a great houseplant to grow outdoors in borders or containers for the summer.

The flowers look like birds and make a great focal or talking point, especially around a patio or pool. You must remember that they are tropical plants, though, that will need some protection for winter in all but the warmest climates.

How to overwinter bird of paradise indoors

If you live in colder climates of US hardiness zone 9 or below, overwintering plants indoors is the preferred choice. This is because a bird of paradise plant will not survive frosts.

If you live in zone 9 and have a few frosts, it may be able to survive outdoors with protection, but it is up to you if you want to take the risk. It is not so up for debate in zones 8 and below, where there are prolonged freezes, and you definitely need to bring plants inside.

The best time to move plants is before nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 55°F in late fall. Cooler temperatures slow the plant's growth and stress it. Leaving it too late can be damaging, as a bird of paradise plant suffers leaf damage and root stress when the temperatures dip below 50°F.

A little TLC before moving plants indoors works wonders. The first step is to inspect them for small pests. The likes of mealybugs, scale, and spider mites can all hide in plain sight and go on to infest other indoor plants in winter.

A ready-to-use insecticidal soap, like this one at Amazon, can be sprayed on plants to get rid of aphids and other small pest issues. Next, if your bird of paradise shows signs of damaged or ageing leaves, snip them off before placing the plant in its new winter home.

The plant is now in perfect condition to come indoors for winter. An ideal location for the overwintering of bird of paradise plants is warm and bright, the type of conditions you get in a conservatory or sunroom.

Tatiana Anderson, a tropical plant expert from Top Tropicals, also highlights south- or west-facing windows as perfect.

'Strelitzia is light-hungry even during dormancy,' says Tatiana. 'Low light leads to leaf yellowing, weak petioles, and slowed recovery in spring. If natural light is limited, supplement with a full-spectrum grow light set 12-18 inches above the foliage for 12-14 hours daily.'

The tropical plant expert also advises to 'maintain room temperatures between 65-75°F' to ensure healthy development through winter.

Overwatering is a common mistake gardeners make when overwintering tender plants indoors, and falling foul of this watering mistake risks the potential future of your bird of paradise plants. Along with providing the right light levels, watering is a key aspect to get right when you overwinter birds of paradise indoors.

'Indoors, the bird of paradise grows slowly in lower light, and excess moisture can cause root rot,' warns Tatiana. 'Let the top 1-2 inches of soil dry before watering again.'

She adds: 'If the air indoors is very dry, increase humidity with a pebble tray or humidifier rather than overwatering.'

So, remember to reduce how often you water plants. Plus, there is no need to fertilize plants during the winter. Wait until the plant starts growing again in spring to commence any feeding regime.

How to overwinter bird of paradise outdoors

The opportunity to overwinter bird of paradise outdoors remains exclusive to those gardeners in warmer zones, primarily US hardiness zone 10+.

As mentioned above, those in zone 9 may be able to overwinter plants, too. This is unless they suffer particularly extended periods of frost or have heavier soil types that sit very wet over winter.

Gardeners in borderline areas will need to protect plants from potential frosts and cold snaps. As the foliage is most susceptible to cold weather, cut the stems down to around 12 inches above the ground before the frosts with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears.

Mulch over the clump with a good few inches of straw, chopped leaves, or bark chippings. Then cover the area with a breathable row cover (such as this floating row cover, available at Amazon) and peg it down to provide an extra layer of insulation and prevent the mulch from getting blown away in strong winds.

If you haven't protected plants, and there is a surprise cold snap forecast, don't panic, as Tatiana offers the following words of advice.

'When frost threatens, water the soil thoroughly a day before - moist soil retains heat better than dry,' recommends the tropical plant expert. 'Cover the plant overnight with frost cloth or breathable fabric, not plastic, to trap ground warmth. For large clumps, wrap the base with mulch or straw to protect rhizomes.'

Once the frosts pass and the temperatures rise again in spring, remove the covering of mulch to allow the bird of paradise to grow again unimpeded.

FAQs

Can strelitzia survive frost?

Bird of paradise plants are tropical plants that are damaged by freezing temperatures. They can withstand cold for short periods, but not prolonged bouts of cold weather.

If you do worry about losing plants to frost, you can propagate bird of paradise plants to bulk out your collection and mitigate any potential losses. The easiest method is to divide plants once they are at least three years old and repot the new plant into a pot filled with soil for container gardening, such as this premium organic potting mix at Burpee.

A less reliable method to try is to take root cuttings in the spring. The ultimate challenge is to collect seeds and grow new plants, but this can take up to 10 years to get mature and flowering bird of paradise plants.

When you force bulbs indoors, choosing a bright spot is often key to prolonging the display, but for the likes of a tablescape away from windows, or just a darker room in the midst of winter, it can be challenging to provide such light. Luckily, there are a handful of indoor bulbs that will tolerate a shaded position. Though, it should be noted they will need to be placed somewhere bright initially to bloom (like on a sunny windowsill), and can then be relocated to a spot with more restricted light to be enjoyed.

The good news is many of the best indoor bulbs for Christmas can adapt to lower light, as well as more unique choices that bring just as much festive cheer. Here, I explore three of the best indoor bulbs for low light spots.

3 indoor bulbs for low light spots

All of the bulbs below can be forced in soil or you can force these bulbs in water. And don't forget, low light doesn't mean no light. These bulbs will perform best in a bright position, but they will tolerate a shadier spot indoors that still gets partial light.

1. Grape hyacinth

Grape hyacinth (muscari) is not only an indoor bulb for lower light, it's also one of the best indoor bulbs to grow in water, as well as soil.

These are some of the best miniature bulbs and when planted en masse in a potted mound arrangement, they make for an impressive centerpiece.

While ideal conditions for muscari are somewhere sunny, they will adapt to lower light. It makes them perfect for table arrangements, but also filling bare spots on shelves this festive season.

It's a great low light alternative to hyacinth bulbs, which prefer a brighter spot.

Something to note: grape hyacinths need around eight weeks of chilling before forcing indoors, so it does require some preparation in advance of the winter months.

You can find muscari bulbs for forcing on Amazon.

2. Leucojum

While often mistaken for snowdrops, leucojum (summer snowflake) is actually a later blooming bulb, typically flowering from April to May. Indoors, it can be forced for Christmas in soil by planting in fall.

Just like muscari, it's best to chill leucojum bulbs for around 10 weeks before forcing.

These charming white blooms are ideal as indoor bulbs for low light because they tolerate conditions from full sun to partial shade.

As compact bulbs, they make for dainty additions to festive floral arrangements.

You can find summer snowflake bulbs on Amazon.

3. 'Tête à Tête' daffodil

For a pop of yellow, consider adding some narcissi bulbs to your indoor bulb display for Christmas. Of course, many types of daffodil require a sunny position, but the compact 'Tête à Tête' is a more shade-tolerant variety.

Though it should be noted, 'Tête à Tête' is only tolerant to light shade, meaning it isn't the best for a super shady spot in the home, but rather a position slightly away from a windowsill.

To successfully force these bulbs, provide a 10 week chilling period and force them in potting mix. They should be kept consistently moist, but not soggy.

'Tête à Tête' bulbs are available to order from Amazon.

FAQs

Will indoor bulbs bloom in low light?

No, it is very unlikely indoor bulbs will bloom in low light, though they do first need a chilling period in darkness. After this, you should place your bulbs on a sunny windowsill or under a grow light (from Amazon) to encourage blooming.

You can then move them to the lower light spot in which you wish to display them, making sure it isn't somewhere with no light at all. Make sure to also choose indoor bulbs that tolerate shade over those that require a full-sun spot.

When forcing these bulbs in water, make sure to read up on hydroponic gardening mistakes, as many of them apply. You can also use the below tools to help you successfully force these bulbs indoors:

However, many gardeners are unfortunately wasteful when growing coleus. As frost-sensitive tropical plants, they are often treated as annuals and disposed of once killed by cold winter temperatures. It needn't be this way, though, as there are ways of overwintering coleus so they can be enjoyed year after year.

If you live in US hardiness zones 10+, you can enjoy coleus as a perennial plant. It is a different case for growers in cooler climates, but it is not tricky to overwinter coleus plants. They can be moved inside and grown as indoor plants for winter, or you can overwinter cuttings to go on and give a dazzling display next year. Here we reveal the best reasons to overwinter coleus and how easy it can be done.

An expert guide to overwintering coleus – which way works for you?

Yes, there is nothing wrong with treating coleus as an annual plant, enjoying the foliage and then letting it succumb to frost. But there are simple ways of overwintering coleus that save you from spending money on new plants. It is a great tactic if you have discovered a variety of underrated bedding plants that you adore, or grow a unique variety not commonly available to buy from garden centers, nurseries, or online. Let's look at the two popular methods of overwintering coleus, so you can choose the one that suits you best.

1. Overwintering coleus as a houseplant

The first option is overwintering coleus as houseplants, allowing you to enjoy their stunning foliage year-round. You may not immediately think of coleus as an indoor plant, but they do have a history of being grown as a houseplant.

On this subject, Jo Ellen Meyers Sharp, garden writer, coach, and speaker known as the Hoosier Gardener, claims: 'Coleus used to be a houseplant and is still considered a houseplant. It's a houseplant that escaped to our summer gardens years ago.'

Proper timing is important when overwintering coleus indoors. Coleus start suffering once temperatures drop below 50°F, so keep a close eye on your forecasts to move plants indoors once night-time temperatures look set to go below that mark.

It is advisable to acclimatize plants to their new indoor life. This can be achieved similarly to hardening off plants in spring, only in reverse, by moving plants from outdoors to a milder spot for a week before their final warm, protected location for winter.

Plants in containers are easy to move, but coleus in flower beds or mixed planters will need to be dug up and potted. Give all plants a good once-over to check for pests and diseases. If there are small pests such as aphids and spider mites, spray plants with insecticidal soap (such as this organic insect soap at Burpee) or a homemade bug spray of liquid soap and water to eliminate them.

A perfect location for overwintering coleus plants is warm, bright, and away from cold drafts. Lydia Beaumont, gardening expert at Gardeners' Yards, says: 'I find a sunny windowsill works best to keep them thriving. If light is an issue, then you can always use a grow light.'

As for caring for coleus indoors, Lydia adds: 'As it's winter, you don't need to water them too much, just enough to keep the soil slightly moist. In winter, most plants' growth slows down, so don't worry too much.'

Keep a close eye on watering plants in containers, and only water when the top two inches of soil feel moist. You can judge when to water plants by using your fingers or getting a soil moisture meter, such as this soil moisture meter at Amazon, which gives immediate results. There will be no need to fertilize plants indoors during the winter.

Lydia also advises cutting back coleus during winter, saying: 'Make sure that leggy stems are kept trimmed, so that the coleus stays compact and healthy. Come springtime, your coleus will be ready to return outdoors happy and healthy.'

2. Overwintering coleus by taking cuttings

The alternative way of overwintering coleus is to take plant cuttings and care for sections of plants over the colder months. It is ideal if you are short of space but still want to overwinter your favorites varieties to enjoy again next year.

As Jessica Mercer from Plant Addicts says: 'Coleus plants grow readily from cuttings, giving us an easy way to keep these lovely plants growing in our gardens from year to year.'

'It is very easy to overwinter coleus by taking a cutting and rooting it in water for a few weeks until it develops roots and then planting it in soil,' adds Kathy Jentz, editor and publisher of the award-winning Washington Gardener Magazine. 'Then treat it like any other houseplant until taking it back outside next spring after any danger of frost has passed.'

There is time to take stem cuttings from coleus in the fall and root them indoors. To propagate coleus at this time of year, take multiple 4-6-inch stem cuttings and remove all but the top set of leaves. Dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone (such as this rooting hormone powder, available at Amazon) and place them in a container filled with water.

Once the cutting develops roots, which usually takes 7-10 days, pot it into an individual container filled with a potting soil for container gardening - pick a potting mix like this organic potting soil at Burpee. But don't wait too long, as Kathy Jentz warns: 'If you leave it in water too long, the water roots develop, and then it is not suitable for growing in soil, usually becoming stretched out or sickly-looking.'

Place the container on a windowsill where it can get bright, but indirect sunlight, and pinch back the shoots as they develop to encourage more branching. The new coleus can be planted outdoors in spring after the last frost.

FAQs

Can you overwinter coleus in the house?

Yes, you can overwinter coleus in a house. To keep the plant thriving overwinter inside the home, place it in a sunny spot where the coleus can bask in bright, indirect light. Coleus do need light over winter, otherwise the vibrant foliage fades, but it won't like lots of direct sunlight.

Coleus wants temperatures of 60-75°F, and to be kept away from heat sources like radiators and heating ducts, as well as fluctuating temperatures from cold drafts or ventilation systems.

The plants will benefit from misting or placing them on a pebble tray for plants to increase humidity, as indoor air in winter can be quite dry for plants. Increasing humidity for indoor plants helps keep ones from warmer climates happier when growing in the house.

Can coleus survive winter in a garage?

Coleus can potentially survive winter in a garage provided the temperature stays above 50°F and it gets enough sunlight. If there is a lack of sufficient natural sunlight, ideally at least six hours a day, you may need to use grow lights to provide enough light for the coleus to survive happily through winter.

When overwintering plants indoors, there are several common mistakes to avoid making that can risk the health of your plants.

Two classic winter houseplant care mistakes are overwatering, which can lead to root rot, and continuing to feed plants like you did during summer.

Those growing over winter only require a lower concentration of fertilizer. While plants not actively growing can suffer root burn if they are fed during winter, they are best left unfertilized until they start growing in spring.

If, like me, you've reached November and there are still quite a few items on your fall gardening checklist, don't fret. There are plenty of tasks that, although ideal to do in the fall, can still be done in the spring. Both seasons offer milder weather conditions, providing two opportunities for a wide range of yard tasks.

Of course, some jobs can't be missed this season, especially those relating to overwintering your garden and preparing your plants for the harshest conditions of winter. But, there are equally quite a few gardening tasks that can be delayed until spring. Here are five jobs gardening experts say not to worry about this season.

5 gardening tasks you can delay until spring

One thing that mustn't be put off this season is planting spring bulbs, as these need to get in the ground now to ensure they have enough time to establish over winter for spring blooming. However, pruning, tidying, and even some propagating jobs can wait until the spring months.

1. Cutting back perennials

While there are plenty of plants to prune in November, many summer-flowering perennials don't necessarily need cutting back until spring. In fact, avoiding deadheading will provide you with structural seedheads for winter interest.

'The only perennials you really need to cut back are plants like monarda (bee balm) which frequently succumbs to powdery mildew,' says Lorraine Ballato, gardening expert and author.

'That pathogen will reinoculate the plant next season when the conditions are ripe, so clear it out now and trash the debris,' she advises.

Seedheads from perennials offer plenty of food and shelter for winter wildlife, including helping to feed birds in winter. But, this isn't the only reason to leave perennials alone after flowering.

'All pruning stimulates a plant and encourages it to put on new growth. That's the opposite of what you want as it enters dormancy,' Lorraine describes. 'There is a risk that new growth won't make it through the winter as it will be weak from not enough growing time.'

Fading foliage can also help protect the crown of many perennials from the harshest winter weather, so it's often best to wait to cut them back until spring, anyhow.

The best thing to do is research the specific pruning needs of the perennials growing in your yard. See our guide to plants to never prune in October and November for more guidance.

2. Dividing perennials

Fall is a great opportunity to divide plants to propagate them, as it provides sufficient time to establish and settle before flowering again next year. If you run out of time to do this in the fall, spring offers another opportunity to do this, specifically with summer-flowering perennials.

Division in early spring provides plenty of time for roots to establish before hot, dry summer conditions. Plus, the ground will have thawed from winter and will be easier to work with.

Dividing perennials every few years will also help keep them from overcrowding, encouraging more vigorous growth and a healthier root system, as well as doubling the number of plants in your yard.

Read our article on when to divide plants for more information on which perennials to divide in spring, including daylilies and geraniums.

3. Fertilizing your lawn

While fertilizing your lawn is a highly beneficial task on the fall lawn care list, it isn't a job entirely fundamental for this time of year.

Fertilizing your lawn in the fall is primarily to help it recover from summer heat stress and to strengthen roots ahead of winter. This is something particularly beneficial for cool-season grass, encouraging a greener, thicker lawn come spring.

However, waiting to give your lawn a boost in early spring, ahead of the active growth season, will also prove to be beneficial. This is especially true if you haven't managed to fertilize your lawn before frost arrives in fall.

It would actually be a fertilizing mistake to do so, as your lawn goes dormant in winter and won't be soaking up the fertilizer. It can lead to root burn and root rot, weakening and even killing your grass.

So, if you've reached mid-November without having fertilized your lawn in fall, it's best to wait until spring.

4. Sterilizing gardening tools

Cleaning gardening tools is vital to keep pests and diseases from spreading. Doing so before storing them for winter will prevent overwintering diseases that can then spread when you pick your tools back up in spring.

However, if you haven't had the chance to thoroughly clean your tools in fall, you can dedicate time to sterilizing them in spring before using them again.

'If tools didn't get some TLC before the snow, springtime is better than never,' says Greg Cuoco, CEO of The Difference Landscapes.

'Start with dirt removal, and use turpentine to get rid of any sticky sap residue. Next, any tools used to remove or trim diseased plants should be disinfected before reuse.'

You can just use warm water and disinfectants, like cleaning vinegar. See our guide to clean rusty gardening tools if they need a bit more attention.

5. Clearing up fallen leaves

If you have trees in your yard, the ground is likely to be covered in fallen leaves this season. While it can be tempting to quickly collect fallen leaves and tidy everything up, experts urge you to hold off on this job until spring.

'Don't be fastidious about clearing up. Wildlife and insects need the debris of the growing season to hibernate and feed throughout the winter,' says Lorraine.

It's true, as over-tidying your yard in fall can harm hibernating wildlife and those seeking shelter. Fallen leaves are often essential for this, especially for beneficial insects and small mammals.

Come spring, spruce up your yard by gathering fallen leaves and other debris from the winter months. You can even start making leaf mulch or compost, ready for use next fall.

FAQs

When is it too late to plant spring bulbs?

It's too late to plant spring bulbs once the ground has frozen and is unworkable. It's best to get your bulbs planted before frost for this reason, allowing them to establish a robust root system through winter for flowering in spring.

The above are gardening tasks you can delay until spring, which means you can turn your attention to the tasks that do need doing this month. For example, there are plenty of plants to propagate in November and greenhouse jobs for November.

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To help you get planning, this guide highlights seven plants to bring indoors in November so they don’t perish in the cold. It includes classic cold-hardy plants, tropical indoor plants that can spend summers outside but must be brought back in, and a couple of plants that some gardeners often treat as annuals and might be surprised can be overwintered indoors.

When your deadline is to overwinter these plants indoors will depend on your US hardiness zone. However, for each of these plants to bring indoors in November, I reveal the ideal spot to overwinter them, along with a few tips for keeping them healthy for the months ahead.

7 more plants to bring indoors in November

Last year, I highlighted some tender plants that gardeners need to consider lifting and bringing indoors in November. This includes the likes of dahlias, citrus trees, cannas, olives, and begonias.

All of those mentioned on the initial plants to bring indoors in November from 12 months ago must be on your to-do list for overwintering plants indoors this month.

However, as more plants will need your attention too, here are seven more plants to bring indoors in November and add to your fall gardening checklist.

1. Agapanthus

Agapanthus are universally adored for their spectacular tall spikes of blooms, but they are tender plants that need protection in winter in all but the warmest US hardiness zones.

Deciduous varieties of agapanthus are a bit hardier than evergreen types, but both will benefit from some TLC to get them through winters in US hardiness zones 8 and below.

If you grow agapanthus in containers, it can be as simple as moving containers indoors into an unheated greenhouse or porch, or you can place the pot next to a south-facing wall for protection.

The alternative is to lift the rhizomes, let them dry for a few days, and winterize agapanthus indoors in a box filled with shredded paper.

2. Bromeliads

Bromeliads bring a tropical garden vibe wherever they grow, and in many climates, they make fantastic houseplants to grow outdoors during the summer months.

They are tropical plants that can only live outside permanently in US hardiness zones 10+, so elsewhere they need to be indoor plants during winter to shelter from the cold. You want to keep a close eye on local weather forecasts, and bring bromeliads indoors once the nighttime temperatures are predicted to drop to around 50°F.

When moving plants indoors to care for bromeliads during the colder months, it is advisable to inspect the plant and the pot for any pests. They can harbour aphids or mealybugs that will enjoy spending their winter inside the home.

To combat this, spray plants with insecticidal soap to get rid of aphids and other small pests, such as this ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart.

3. Coleus

Coleus are popular foliage plants, thanks to their unique leaves in striking shades ranging from deep purple to lime green. But they are sensitive to frost.

Many gardeners routinely grow coleus as an annual plant and throw them away once the first frosts kill them, but you can overwinter the plants indoors to enjoy them the next year.

Bring the plants indoors once the temperature looks set to drop below 50°F. Either move container plants or pot up coleus growing in mixed planters or flower beds.

The pot should be kept in a warm location, ideally somewhere that gets indirect sunlight. You can gently cut back coleus throughout winter by pinching back to growing stems to keep the plant compact and bushy.

An alternative way to overwinter them is to propagate coleus by taking plant cuttings in the fall, before the frosts.

4. Fuchsias

Tender fuchsias are popular plants for adding color and drama to summer displays. Many gardeners grow tender fuchsias in hanging baskets or containers, where the trailing habit allows the flowers to cascade over the edges for a beautiful display.

They are another that many people discard come winter, but it is not difficult to overwinter fuchsia rather than chuck them away.

Potted tender fuchsias can be kept as houseplants over winter, but they are finicky when growing indoors. The easier way to care for fuchsias over winter indoors is to keep them as dormant plants.

To do this, cut back the fuchsias and bring them indoors into a dark, frost-free place, such as a garage, basement, shed, or outbuilding. Water them infrequently, just to prevent the soil from drying out, over winter, and they can go back outside after the frosts in spring.

5. Herbs

Why not have a little indoor herb garden for the winter, perfect for fresh pickings of leaves throughout the winter months? Pots of herbs on a kitchen windowsill won’t grow massively during winter, but they will still provide harvests for all manner of festive meals.

Potted tender herbs like dill, parsley, and chives can all thrive on a sunny windowsill, along with other hardier plants like sage, rosemary, and mint, provided they get six hours of light per day. Indoor herbs can benefit from extra humidity, so place them on a pebble tray for plants. (like this humidity tray with decorative rocks available at Amazon)

Check the plants for pests before bringing them into the home, and deal with any issues before relocating them indoors. Also, take care not to overwater them when growing indoors.

6. Pelargoniums

Pelargoniums, or hardy geraniums, are tender perennials with bright flowers and highly fragrant foliage.

There is a wide range of plants to choose from, with a variety of unique scents available, and they can continue flowering indoors over winter, even at temperatures of 45-50ºF. If you move them indoors before frost, you can enjoy the blooms and aromas for longer, which is a much preferred alternative to throwing away plants.

To overwinter geraniums indoors, bring pots under cover (you may need to pot up plants in flower beds or larger container displays) and place them in a bright, frost-free position, such as a greenhouse, conservatory, sunroom, or sunny windowsill.

Water them every few weeks, once the top two inches of soil dry out, and pinch back the stems to encourage new shoots.

You can lift plants and overwinter them bare-root, stored wrapped in newspaper in a frost-free shed or garage. However, this method doesn’t allow you to enjoy their virtues through the winter.

7. Succulents

Non-cold-hardy succulents and cacti, including aloe, echeveria, crassula, aeonium, senecio, and many sedum varieties, need to be brought indoors before the first frost. You can keep succulents indoors over winter in a greenhouse, conservatory, or in front of a bright south-facing window.

It is beneficial to water them deeply a few days before bringing them inside, and give your succulents some care by inspecting for pests, removing any debris, and giving the pots a brush so your displays look their best.

The biggest mistake to avoid when caring for succulents in winter is avoiding overwatering. Many succulents are dormant during winter and need water sparingly when the soil dries out. Giving them too moisture is a common cause of root rot in succulents, especially during winter.

If you intend to overwinter plants indoors as houseplants for the colder months, they do need to be prepared for their new life inside. It is done in the reverse way of hardening off plants in spring to acclimatize them to a new outdoor life after spending time in a warm, protected environment.

Gradually expose the plants to more warmth, increasing their time spent in a warmer environment a bit at a time, before bringing them fully inside. This gradual approach is preferable to shocking them with an instant transition from outdoors to indoors, which can stress plants and cause them to drop leaves.

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It's based around using a single flower variety to create a structural, contemporary look in a bud vase, and repeating the same design along a table.

In a recent Petals & Roots episode, I demonstrate exactly how I came up with this modern bud vase styling idea, and show you how to recreate this flower arrangement using stunning ball dahlias. Here I cover the process in detail, and share more of my tips and tricks for simple, modern floral styling.

What you need to recreate this modern bud vase styling idea

• A selection of 6-8 identical bud vases.
• Floristry scissors; I use the Niwaki floral scissors, available from Anthropologie.
• Seven flower stems per bud vase. You're going to be using one single flower variety for this design, so you could benefit from buying in bulk at a local flower market or from a flower grower in your area.

How to make your own contemporary bud vases

It is so simple to get this design right. You need to make sure you have at least seven stems of the same flower for each bud vase.

The idea is to add them to the vase at a range of different heights, to create a series of mini living sculptures.

We want this design to look very clean and sleek, so remove all foliage and any buds from your stems before you begin.

Start by adding your first stem. I opted for a fairly tall one.

Follow this up with your lowest stem, so it's overlapping the lip of the vase, and then fill in the gaps by staggering the stems at different heights. Once you have three or four stems in a bud vase, they will start to hold each other in position.

Measure the stem against the side of the vase each time before you cut it, to make sure you are trimming at the correct height. If in doubt, cut a bit less and keep trimming until you reach the desired length.

Once you have 6-7 stems in a vase, look at it from all angles to decide whether there are any gaps you want to fill, or maybe you want to keep some negative space as part of the design.

You can move the stems around a little to get them to hold nicely in their desired shape.

Why this design works and how you can modify it

It's not often I come up with a floral design idea by accident, but it does happen from time to time. On this occasion, I was collecting from flowers from a wedding, and wanted to quickly save all the dahlias from each arrangement.

All I had to put them in were a few bud vases, so I simply popped them in without much thought. They had already been cut at different heights, and the result was this incredible mini floral sculpture.

The crucial element when recreating this is choosing the right flower type and color.

I opted for a ball dahlia type in burnt orange, not only because they represent the season, but also for their perfectly structured form. Looking at that flower is all the confirmation you need that nature is the most sublime mathematician.

This design is pared back, modern and unfussy, so think about that when you come to select your chosen bloom. Designing with dahlias is ideal for this kind of arrangement, but other flowers I would consider are chrysanthemums, zinnias, lisianthus (with all the buds removed), clematis, and iris.

Your essential floristry kit

There are so many different styles of flowers you can use with bud vases to create beautiful displays for your dining tables.

A design that was particularly loved over the summer on the Homes & Gardens TikTok was when I demonstrated how to create a bud vase display using wild flowers from your own garden.

It's a whole different vibe to the modern look I've created here, but would perfectly complement an afternoon tea or a summer party.

Petals & Roots is a weekly video series fronted by me, Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. Every weekend on social, I share my seasonal gardening and flower arranging expertise and advice.

I worked in several gardens with greenhouses, including one with two large restored Victorian glasshouses. They were a great space to overwinter plants indoors. I've also grown microgreens in there year-round, and propagated plants indoors in late fall. November isn't just a time for fun jobs like propagating, though. I also found it an ideal time to prepare for winter and spring by cleaning and sorting the space.

For this list of greenhouse jobs for November, there is a mix of routine (but still highly useful) and enjoyable tasks. These greenhouse ideas for the month include sowing, propagating, and plant care, as well as some clearing, cleaning, and prepping.

7 greenhouse jobs for November to remember

Your fall gardening checklist is likely chock-full of jobs to do this month. However, if there is inclement weather, this provides an ideal opportunity to take shelter in the greenhouse and complete some of these greenhouse jobs for November.

1. Clean the greenhouse

Cleaning and maintaining the structure is an important part of winterizing a greenhouse, and this month is an ideal time to make a head start on it. Trust me, any plants in there for winter will thank you, and a clean greenhouse gets you off to a great start for the next gardening year.

Start with the glass. If you used shading paint earlier in the year, remove it to maximize the light levels reaching the plants. Give any greenhouse panes a good clean, inside and outside, to ensure plants receive the most light possible during the winter months, when levels are naturally at their lowest.

Give the floors and benches a sweep, and clean any greenhouse staging and frames with disinfectant (such as this Hydrogen Peroxide All Purpose Cleaner at The Home Depot) to combat any lingering pests or diseases.

It is also a great time to remove leaves from your gutters, so they don't get clogged. This is especially important if you are harvesting rainwater and storing it in a rain barrel to water plants.

2. Install insulation

Keeping a greenhouse warm expands the potential range of uses over the colder months of the year. If your greenhouse isn't currently heated, there are measures you can put in place this month to keep it warmer over winter to fit any budget.

A fan heater, such as this greenhouse heater with a thermostat at Amazon, can make it warm enough to overwinter tender plants and grow plants from seed through the colder months, with the added assistance of a heated propagation mat (like this seedling heat mat at Walmart).

But if you are just looking to overwinter cold-tolerant vegetables or ornamental plants, you don't always need expensive heaters. This month is an ideal time to attach bubble wrap to the inside of the glass to insulate the wall and roof of the greenhouse.

Using bubble wrap protects plants from frost and reduces heat loss. Rather than wrap the entire structure, a simpler alternative is to use horticultural fleece to cover plants if you merely want to insulate them from the cold.

3. Do final sowings

A greenhouse can extend the growing season for vegetables and herbs, and also offer the opportunity to start flower seeds indoors for earlier blooms next year.

The likes of lettuce, spinach, arugula, and Asian leaves such as mizuna, bok choy, and mustards can thrive in cooler fall temperatures and make great vegetables to grow in a greenhouse in the fall.

In terms of flowers, hardy annuals, including sweet peas, cornflowers, larkspur, California poppy, and marigolds, can all be sown in November to overwinter in a greenhouse and flower in spring.

All seedlings need warmth to germinate and survive, so you may need to insulate or heat a greenhouse to ensure the minimum greenhouse temperature stays above 45°F for seedlings to grow during winter.

A greenhouse thermometer (such as this bluetooth digital hygrometer at Amazon) can help you track the temperatures during the day and night to keep them at safe levels for seedlings.

4. Take cuttings

You can take plant cuttings this month to overwinter in the greenhouse, as they don't need especially warm temperatures, just a protected, frost-free place to start developing roots.

You can propagate plants in November in two ways. Shrubs are suitable for hardwood cuttings, while you can propagate perennials from root cuttings.

Root cuttings are great for perennials with fleshy roots, such as phlox, verbascum, and hardy geraniums, and you can propagate many new plants from one parent. To do this, carefully dig up plants and cut 3-4 inch sections of healthy roots with a sharp knife.

Thinner roots can be laid on the surface of compost and covered with a thin layer of grit. For perennials with thicker roots, slice them with a horizontal cut at the top and an angled cut at the bottom and place them into pots with the top end flush with the soil surface.

5. Clear out old crops

If you haven't gotten around to it yet, now is the time to remove any old summer crops from the greenhouse, whether you grow them in beds, raised beds, pots, or grow bags.

Heat-loving crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, and peppers are often grown in greenhouses in cooler climates, but they are likely to have stopped producing harvests come November. If you do have any fruits left on your tomato plants, it is better to ripen green tomatoes with a banana in a paper bag, rather than stubbornly leaving them on the plant.

Remove the summer crops and use them to make compost, provided they show no signs of pests or diseases.

The resulting space in greenhouse beds or raised beds can be used to sow some fast-growing vegetables like arugula, lettuce, or spinach for winter crops, or you can cover the beds with mulch and let them settle until spring.

6. Wash pots and trays

It may not be a glamorous task, but washing all your empty pots and trays keeps the greenhouse pest and disease-free. And it ensures they are all ready to use again come spring.

Bacteria, viruses, and fungi can all live and overwinter in any old soil left in your pots and trays. An annual winter clean prevents them from building up and also removes any pests loitering around, as aphids, spider mites, fungus gnats, and more can thrive in the greenhouse over the colder months and continue to breed and trouble plants.

To clean flower pots, start with a heavy-duty brush to remove any old soil or debris from the inside of the pot or tray. Then make a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water, and soak your containers in it for around half an hour.

Let the pots and trays dry naturally and then neatly store them away in the greenhouse. It is an under-estimated way to prepare for seed sowing, but it means your containers are ready for when you start sowing seeds indoors come spring.

7. Ventilate on dry days

When you think of greenhouse ventilation, you probably imagine hot summer days where you need doors and vents open to cool down your plants.

However, the importance of ventilating a greenhouse in fall and winter is often underestimated. But it is something to bear in mind this month, to reduce the risk of diseases.

Air circulation is crucial for disease prevention. It reduces humidity, and moist air can leave plants susceptible to fungal diseases. You can ensure good circulation by opening vents, opening doors, or using a fan on dry and sunny fall days.

Close the doors or vents again in the afternoon to trap the last of the day's heat in the greenhouse, so that warmth can be conserved into the evening.

Plants will need watering in late fall and winter in greenhouses, but do so carefully. They need a careful approach to avoid overwatering plants, which increases the risk of root rot during the colder months.

Water deeply only when essential, and use a soil moisture meter to judge when to water plants in containers. Also, when you water plants, avoid wetting the foliage, as soaking wet leaves are more at risk of fungal diseases.

Unfortunately, one of the main threats to wildlife today is habitat loss and with widespread ongoing development and the fragmentation of natural habitats, our private gardens are becoming more vital in providing nature-supporting habitats and links to larger wild areas.

Read on to discover how you can use wildlife garden ideas to turn your backyard or balcony into an on-trend ecological corridor garden that will provide all manner of wildlife with food, water and shelter for their onward journey.

How to connect your garden with other wildlife areas

In a progressively urbanized world, wild areas are being broken up and natural wildlife sites are becoming more fragmented, leading to populations of isolated species.

On a large scale, wildlife or green corridors as they are also known, provide a safe bridge, linking key wildlife habitats, such as the Yellowstone to Yukon Conservation Initiative.

However, on a smaller scale, your private garden can be a stepping stone for birds, pollinators and other small mammals to refuel and rest between larger natural areas.

We will show you how implementing even small measures can help ensure safe passage for wildlife and support them on their travels.

Relax on garden maintenance

One of the first steps to making a corridor garden and one that will make time-poor gardeners happy to hear, is to actually do less.

To start with, you can support no-mow May and put the lawnmower away and not bring it back out until early June, or only mow the lawn when you really need to. By allowing the grass to grow longer, you will also be letting any wild flowers in the grass appear, which bees and butterflies will feast upon.

However, if you are unable to leave all of your lawn to grow taller over the summer months, you don’t need to worry, as even a small patch left unmown can have a surprising effect.

As an experiment in one of the gardens I previously managed, we left a small circle in the middle of a lawn to its own devices and in a matter of weeks, pollinators were feeding off the red and white clover, daisies and dandelions.

Another task to leave on the to-do list is the pre-winter tidy up, or as some call it, putting the garden to bed. This is because seed heads from plants such as coneflowers (Echinacea), black eyed-susan (Rudbeckia) and sunflowers (Helianthus) are a great source of nourishment for small birds over the colder months and especially when the ground is frozen.

Any upright dead stems, especially hollow ones, can also be left until spring, as insects may overwinter inside them.

Additionally, when the leaves begin to drop, you do not have to pick them all up. It is wise to collect any fallen leaves on the lawn as a thick layer will prevent any air and light from reaching the blades, resulting in weakened growth and encouraging moss.

But for those that fall on the borders, you can leave them where they are as they can provide shelter for small animals, including frogs and toads and will finally rot down and boost the soil.

However, for those with limited outside space or no border to leave untouched over the winter, you can build a bug hotel or purchase one such as this insect hotel available from Amazon to provide a safe habitat for any passing insects.

As well as mowing less and putting off a winter tidy-up until spring, you can also designate a special area of your garden to be left to its own devices. Although potentially unsightly and perhaps best created out of sight, leaving a patch of your yard completely uncultivated and free from any chemicals or fertilizers can create a safe space for any passing wildlife to forage or inhabit undisturbed.

Wildlife-friendly fencing

When it comes to yard boundaries, tall closed fencing is commonly used for privacy and security reasons, especially in urban areas. Even though closed fencing and solid gates help keep pets and children safe and contained, they unfortunately can also keep out any passing wildlife.

Instead of impassable fencing, other nature-friendly barriers suitable for corridor gardens include hedgerows, living willow hedges, or types of open fencing. Wooden lattice fencing with sizeable openings should be considered as it can still keep pets and children contained, but also allow for frogs and toads to pass through.

Better still and if your neighbor agrees, why not cut a small hole in your shared fence to encourage safe passage between your gardens?

In rented accommodation, the above options may not be possible, but you can still encourage wildlife to use the garden as a corridor to other natural areas. For example, if you have a closed board fence, you could install some vine eyes, such as these YGAOHF 2.5 Inches Eye Hooks Screw available from Amazon and training wires and grow a coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) to attract hummingbirds, or a passion flower (Passiflora incarnata) to help feed passing bees and butterflies.

Plant native hedgerows

When planning a new hedge or replacing an old one, you might be amazed at the choice of plants on offer. From evergreen to deciduous, for flowers or for berries, the selection is vast. Nevertheless, a hedge consisting of mixed native species is a great way to support wildlife and make your yard into a corridor garden.

Depending on the aspect, exposure, hardiness zone and soil of your garden, native hedging plants could include American Hazelnut (Corylus americana), Common Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis), Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea) and Common Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius).

By planting a mixture of species, rather than just one, you can support a more diverse range of wildlife as well as provide interest in the garden at different times throughout the year.

Furthermore, hedgerows don’t just support small birds and insects, as they also provide a hunting site for bats and act as landmarks for them to follow between nesting and foraging sites.

However, before planting, it is worth checking with your state extension horticultural department, as some shrubs, such as Common buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica) are considered invasive as they can outcompete native species and cause more harm than good to local ecosystems.

Native hedgerow mixes can often be mainly deciduous, so you may want to add an evergreen specimen to provide cover for the winter months. One such option, and one that will also provide food and shelter for any visiting wildlife, is ivy (Hedera helix).

Perhaps one of the best evergreen climbers, ivy is hardy and grows well in zone 4 and above. That being said, it is known to be vigorous and will require regular pruning to keep it in check. You can purchase English Ivy from Nature Hills.

Pollinator waystations are key

Another way of encouraging your front or back yard to be used as a corridor garden is to include a pollinator waystation.

Perhaps best known for supporting monarch butterflies on their migration from the United States and Canada to Mexico, pollinator waystations provide host plants for laying eggs and nectar to sustain them on their long journey.

To provide a pollinator waystation in your corridor garden, you can grow a diverse range of nectar-rich flowering plants and in the case of monarch butterflies, native milkweed species. Some of the best pollinator-friendly plants include verbena, bee balm (Monarda) and Yarrow (Achillea) as they are adored by bees, butterflies and other insects.

One of my favorite plants to support pollinators and one that I have planted and grown in many of the gardens I have managed over my horticultural career is Verbena bonariensis.

Growing up to 6 feet tall, this tall verbena produces small clusters of tiny purple flowers that, when in bloom, are adored by bees and butterflies. Best grown in zone 7 and above in full sun and on a free-draining soil, you can purchase Verbena bonariensis seeds from Burpee.

Build wildlife ponds

Wildlife also need access to water for drinking, breeding and for some species, as a habitat. Even a small wildlife pond can support a variety of amphibians, birds and bats and insects such as dragonflies.

You can construct a pond to any shape and size using a flexible rubber liner or you can choose a pre-molded liner such as this Algreen Rigid Preformed Plastic Pond Liner available from Amazon.

However, if sinking a pond into the ground is not an option, a plastic tub or half barrel placed on a balcony or patio with varying depths provided by rocks or stones, along with some aquatic plants, will encourage wildlife to visit.

When talking about supporting wildlife, perhaps one of the first things that comes to mind is feeding the birds. But what is the best way to feed them and which foods should you provide?

Our in-depth feature on how to feed garden birds will take you through all you need to know, from where to position feeds to how to prevent squirrels from stealing the food you put out.

You have from now until early spring to give deciduous trees a potentially much-needed trim, and pruning on a bright day in late fall can often be more enjoyable than on a cold one in late winter. Starting early in the window also has its benefits if you have many trees and shrubs that need pruning before the end of winter. It can be satisfying to get some things ticked off on a nice day, as opposed to rushing at the back end of the window, desperately trying to get everything done.

There is quite a selection of plants that can be trimmed this month, including fruit trees, nut trees, and ornamental trees. Pruning in late fall was a regular task during my time as a professional gardener, especially when I had a long checklist of fruit trees to prune in one particular walled garden. It can be a busy month for gardeners, as there are potentially many plants to prune in November. Here we focus on the trees in your yard that may benefit from a trim.

7 trees to prune in November – why it's important to check before you cut

While many trees will benefit from some attention this month, not all will. You can risk the health of some trees by pruning, or badly affect the display of spring bloom for others.

There are some trees (for example, birch and walnuts) that will bleed sap and be susceptible to pests and diseases. There are others (for example, magnolias and flowering dogwoods), where you risk removing the buds that will carry next spring’s blooms.

And finally, stone fruit trees are not pruned during dormancy like other fruit trees. It is a fruit tree pruning mistake to trim them in dormancy, as they’ll be left at risk of diseases like silver leaf and bacterial canker.

Always check before doing any trimming to ensure you are not making a tree pruning mistake by trimming this month. However, all of the following are certainly trees to prune in November, and they will appreciate any TLC you give them over the coming weeks.

1. Apple

Let’s start with only of the most popular and widely grown fruit trees, apples.

Pruning is important for apples as most trees fruit on spurs, so any annual pruning promotes the growth of more buds to carry fruit. The trimming also controls the size and shape of the tree, ensuring the branches can support the weight of the fruits. Finally, it allows for air circulation and light penetration among the canopy, which keeps the tree healthy overall.

The window to prune an apple tree starts in November and runs until late winter or early spring. You want to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches, along with any that are crossing or growing inwards towards the central trunk of the tree. You ideally want an open goblet shape of well-spaced branches.

To promote lots of branching and the growth of fruiting spurs, trim last year’s growth by a third, cutting to an outward-facing bud. You can do this with a pair of sharp pruning shears.

I personally have a trusty pair of Felco 2 pruning shears that I have used to prune many fruit trees over my years as a professional gardener – and you can get new Felco F2 pruning shears on Amazon that can last for decades, as every part is replaceable.

When pruning espalier apple trees, winter pruning involves removing dead, diseased, and damaged branches, as well as any necessary trimming to maintain the trained tree's shape or thin congested spurs.

2. Pear

Pear trees are another of those ubiquitous fruit trees; millions of gardeners globally love them as the fruits from homegrown trees surpass any you get in stores. I have maintained free-standing and trained pear trees in kitchen gardens, and winter pruning maintains their shape and, like apples, promotes the formation of spurs to carry fruit.

Prune pear trees when they are dormant, but resist the urge to trim early, as it can stimulate new growth, which is damaged by frosts and leave the entire tree susceptible to pests and diseases.

Annual pruning always starts with removing dead, diseased or damaged branches. Next, look to thin the tree by removing crossing, weak, or unwanted branches to improve air and light circulation.

Again, aim for a goblet or vase shape, which can be slightly trickier with pears, as their branches grow more upright than apple trees. Trimming back each main branch by a third can promote spurs and reduce the length of branches to support the weight of the fruit. This is also helpful as pear wood is softer than apple wood.

Loppers are the best pruning tools for thicker branches; they are suitable for ones 1-2 inches thick, compared to one inch for pruning shears. A pair of extendable loppers like these at Amazon can also reach higher up into the tree to cut branches up to two inches thick.

3. Quince

Quinces were once very popular trees in colonial gardens, but they fell out of fashion. That is now changing, and growing quince trees is experiencing a bit of a resurgence. A good selling point for them is that they are easy fruit trees to grow, including not requiring lots of regular pruning.

You do need to prune quince trees annually when they are young, to give them a good framework of branches and an open goblet shape.

Established trees then mainly just need dead, diseased, or damaged branches removed, and weak, congested, or crossing branches trimmed out to open up the canopy and let more air and light in.

As quince trees fruit on tips at the end of their branches, any branches that get too long are best shortened, as the weight of the heavy fruits can cause them to snap. It is also advisable to remove suckers from around the base of the tree whenever you see them.

Quince trees can reach up to 20 feet tall, so you may need an extendable tree pruner to cut higher branches. This 2-in-1 extendable tree pruner at Amazon has a pruning blade and a pole saw head for trimming branches of different sizes.

4. Mulberry

Mulberries are unique fruits to grow, with rich, tart, and juicy fruits resembling large, elongated blackberries that are rarely sold in shops. When growing mulberry trees, pruning is a task that must always be done gently.

That forgiving touch is essential as mulberry trees struggle to heal large wounds. It means you want to make as few cuts as possible and never want to prune branches over two inches in diameter, as it can leave the tree prone to fungal or bacterial diseases, as the open wounds take a long time to mend.

When you prune a mulberry tree, remove dead, diseased, damaged, and crossing branches to open up the canopy. And make a few small-scale trims to thin the tree, but never remove more than a quarter of the tree at one time. Over-pruning mulberries does affect fruiting, as well as leaving the tree vulnerable to diseases and pests.

For any pruning, ensure your tools are clean and sharp. A pocket-sized sharpening tool, like this one at Amazon, can be used on straight blade tools, including pruning shears, loppers, and hedging shears.

5. Beech

Beech trees are historic British trees. Many people use beech as a hedging plant, but they make beautiful trees for any landscape, thanks to their stately shape, dense foliage, and dazzling fall color.

They can reach 90-130 feet when left to their own devices. This is where regular pruning is helpful, to maintain the ideal size, keep it manageable for any yard, and ensure the tree remains healthy and beautiful for decades to come.

Beech trees do bleed sap when they are actively growing, so pruning always takes place during dormancy. As with all others on this list, remove any dead, diseased, or damaged wood, along with any growing too close to the ground or going inwards towards the trunk.

If the tree has grown too tall, use crown reduction to bring down the height over the course of a few years. Never top the tree, which is removing the central stem and main canopy branches in one go. Not only does a topped tree look ugly, but it also places huge stress on it, and can affect its future growth.

6. Hazelnuts

Varieties of hazelnuts, which are also known as cobnuts and filberts, should be regularly pruned in dormancy to promote wood to carry the crop of nuts. Some of the most common varieties include the American hazelnut (Corylus americana), the European hazelnut (Corylus avellana), and the large filbert (Corylus maxima).

The trees are ideally grown as multi-stemmed trees, which helps boost pollination and gives the best crop. Such a form should have between five and ten well-spaced, strong stems, with the structure formed over the first five years of the tree’s life. Once the main stems reach 7-8 feet, cut them back to a bud to encourage sideshoots.

Established hazelnuts require removing suckers and opening up the tree to combat potential congestion. Make thinning cuts to remove dead, damaged, and diseased branches, weak shoots, inward-growing stems, or overcrowded areas. This thinning allows more light into the tree.

You can remove a few older, upright stems to reduce congestion. However, when trimming, remember the one-third pruning rule, to only trim out up to a third of the growth at any given time.

Larger, older stems may require the use of a pruning saw, which is used for branches beyond the thickness of pruning shears or loppers. For example, this Fiskars folding hand saw at Walmart has a 10-inch blade with razor-sharp, triple-ground teeth for cutting through thick branches.

7. Davidia

The handkerchief tree (Davidia involucrata) is native to China and a stunning, under-rated tree. It gets its name from the glorious white bracts which surround the flowers in spring, as they flutter in the wind like handkerchiefs hanging from the branches.

A handkerchief tree can take 10 years to start flowering after planting. They may be a luxury, but they are very low-maintenance trees. They do not respond well to heavy pruning, so always treat a handkerchief tree with a gentle touch. The risk of over-pruning is that the tree gets stressed, which likely results in fewer flowers.

Formative pruning is required to train a single-stemmed tree, as there is a risk of the tree splitting if there is more than one leading shoot. Once established, focus primarily on removing the usual suspects of dead, damaged, or diseased branches, along with any that are crossing or rubbing.

If you are looking for more jobs to add to your fall gardening checklist this month, it is worth remembering that November can be an ideal time to take plant cuttings. This rewarding task gives you free shrubs or perennial plants for your garden. If you are interested in finding out more, this guide to plants to propagate in November highlights seven plants you can take cuttings from, along with expert tips for each.

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Its erect growth, which spreads as it matures, carries dark green and slightly aromatic leaves a little like those of a laurel or rhododendron. In cooler climates, the tree may lose its leaves for a short while, often as new leaves are opening. The small greenish flowers are carried on short stalks in groups of up to three at the leaf joints and are yellowish green in color and fruitily scented, the smell that attracts beetles to pollinate the flowers.

Once established, these ornamental, subtropical fruit trees are low maintenance and easy to care for. Ideal for USDA hardiness zone 10, this tree is a naturally compact species that will thrive in warmer climates. Here we share everything you need to know about planting, growing and nurturing the sublime cherimoya tree.

Cherimoya trees: key facts

• Plant type Evergreen, subtropical tree
• Mature size 25-30ft (7.5-9m)
• Soil type Fertile and well-drained
• Soil pH Slightly acid, neutral, alkaline
• Time to plant Late spring
• Flowering time Summer
• Flower color Greenish yellow
• Fruiting time Summer
• Fruit color Green, then yellowish and often softly spiny
• Hardiness zones USDA zones 9-12
• Scientific name Annona cherimola
• Common name Cherimoya, soursop, graveola, guanabana, custard apple

How to choose a cherimoya tree for your yard

The best thing to do is to try and find a named variety. There are over a dozen named varieties of cherimoya trees, some are noted for their flavor, or their ability to grow in cooler conditions than other varieties, or for their capacity to produce fruit (although not always a full crop) without hand pollinations.

Cherimoyas are relatively small to medium sized, but they are fast growing trees. They can be sufficiently mature to bear their first fruits just two years after planting and may eventually reach 35ft (10m) in height and spread. They can live for up to 50 years.

However, regular pruning is advisable to keep the flowering and fruiting growth at a manageable height for hand pollinating and harvesting.

The rounded, more or less heart-shaped, fruits are pale green or creamy yellow and about 4in (10cm), sometimes even up to 10in (20cm), long. They are made up of many small individual fruits all fused together to look like one large fruit.

Once these evergreen trees are mature, they may produce from 30 to over 200 fruits per year, depending on age, growing conditions, and variety.

Fruits may take a year to ripen, and mature in summer, as the flowers for the next year’s fruits are opening, and eventually become pale green or creamy yellow.

It isn't always easy to find cherimoya trees online, and might be better searching in your local nursery. However, you can find young cherimoya plants at Amazon, and custard apple trees are also available at Walmart.

Names varieties to look out for are:

• ‘Big Sister’ has large, well-flavored fruits and will often crop without pollination.
• ‘Bronceada’ is also well-flavored but also tolerates cooler conditions and often self-pollinates.
• ‘Nata’ has a good flavor, fruits better than most when young, and may self-pollinate.
• ‘Sabor’ has perhaps the best flavor but the fruits can be small.

The ideal location to plant cherimoya trees

Cherimoyas make good backyard trees and grow well in USDA Zone 10. Young trees should survive 30˚F (-1˚C) while mature trees should take 27˚F (-3˚C). However, unlike many tropical fruit trees, they dislike constant high heat and high humidity.

In fact cherimoya trees need at least 100 hours at 43˚F (6˚C) or lower each winter to initiate spring growth and flower development.

They need full sun, preferably combined with cool nights, and although they appreciate full sun the leaves can scorch without a little shade from afternoon heat. They are more susceptible to cold chills than avocado trees or citrus but enjoy cool sea air. Areas with cool, dry winters suit them best.

The branches of cherimoya trees usually become quite brittle and the weight of ripe fruits combined with strong winds can cause damage, so look for a site sheltered from strong prevailing winds. If growing more than one cherimoya tree, space them 20-30ft (7-9m) apart.

How to plant cherimoya trees

Late spring, around May, is usually the best planting time for fruit trees. Dig a hole twice as deep as the roots on your young tree and twice as wide. Mix well-rotted garden compost or manure, plus a handful of general fertilizer, into the base of the hole and also mix it in equal parts with soil removed from the hole.

Place the tree in the hole, adjusting its depth so that the soil mark on the stem of bare root trees, or the surface of the soil in its pot, is level with the surrounding soil. Spread the roots out well, if necessary, and carefully refill the hole with the amended soil, working it around the roots.

Support the tree with a stout stake, exactly like this one on Amazon, knocked in at an angle to avoid damaging the roots and tied to the trunk about 2-3ft (60-90cm) above ground. Drive the stake into the ground to the side of the hole to at least 2ft (60cm) deep. Leave the stake in place until the tree is growing well.

After planting water in thoroughly, adding a liquid feed to help give the young tree a good start.

How to care for cherimoyas

Cherimoya trees appreciate consistently moist soil but overwatering, so that the soil becomes waterlogged, encourages root rot. As a precaution, it is usually wise not to water in winter but it pays to fertilize your cherimoya tree every two or three months during the growing season.

Cherimoya fruits can weigh as much as a pound (450g) each and the slender branches that develop on an unpruned tree may break under the strain of supporting ripe fruit.

If you're not sure when to prune fruit trees like cherimoyas, the best time is generally when the tree is dormant. Select two shoots for very 2ft (60cm) of trunk to be the main branches, ensuring they are spread all round the trunk.

Cut them back to 2ft (60cm). The following year, cut each new shoot back leaving about five or six buds at the base to develop fruits and flowers. Also, check for branches rubbing against each other, and cut out the weaker.

How to make more cherimoyas

There are two ways to propagate cherimoyas to get free plants: from seeds and from cuttings.

Seeds sprout readily, in fact if you leave the fruits on the tree they will burst and the seeds may start to germinate before the fruits have even dropped off. So you can either collect seeds from a ripe fruit or buy seeds mail order.

Soak the seeds in water for three days, then plant two seeds, an inch deep, in a 5in (12.5cm) pot of seed starting mix. Keep the pots at a temperature of 65-75˚F (18-21˚C), the seeds should sprout in four or five weeks. If both sprout, remove the weaker of the two.

Grow the seedlings on until roots start to peep through the holes in the base of the pot then either plant them or move them into a larger pot – preferably one that is deeper than it is wide. Cherimoya seedlings have deep roots.

Cherimoyas can also be grown by taking cuttings. In winter, cut shoots 8-12in (20-30cm), long trimming them just below a bud at the base and just above a bud at the tip. Fill a pot with a 50:50 mix of sand and seed starting mix, choose a pot deep enough so that only the top bud is above the surface of the mix.

Keep the pot in a warm, light place until roots start to appear through the drainage holes in the base – usually after four to six weeks. At this stage, plant them out.

How to harvest cherimoya fruits

The fruits on a cherimoya tree usually take five to seven months to mature, sometimes longer, and are ready to pick when they are still firm but have changed color from dark green to a more yellowish green.

The best flavor comes with leaving the fruits on the tree as long as possible, so that they start to soften, but not so long that they burst. The fruits finish ripening after picking and must be eaten promptly as the flavor quickly takes an unpleasant turn.

Although usually much smaller, a report in the Journal of the Jamaica Horticultural Society states: 'The fruits vary in weight between three and eight pounds, exceptionally large ones may reach sixteen pounds and over.'

The fruits do not store well so if you have more than you can use ripening at the same time, be sure to give away the surplus.

FAQs

Is the whole cherimoya fruit edible?

No. Most parts of the cherimoya tree are poisonous, in fact only the delicious creamy white flesh is edible. In particular, discard the skin and the seeds. The seeds are like small black beans and show up well against the white flesh so there is little chance of eating one by mistake.

The seeds are toxic in a variety of ways and, although some effects are not serious, they are always best avoided. They have sometimes been used to create an insecticide.

But the flesh of the cherimoya was described by Mark Twain as 'Deliciousness itself'.

Are cherimoya trees self-pollinating?

Cherimoyas originate in the mountains of Peru and Ecuador where the flowers are pollinated by a specific type of beetle. Unfortunately, this type of beetle is not found elsewhere so in gardens cherimoyas may go unpollinated and fruit development may be poor unless the flowers are pollinated by hand.

Each segment of the fruit, with its white flesh containing a single black seed, is the result of one pollination, so the more pollinations the larger the fruit.

The male and female parts are carried in the same flower but, unfortunately, they do not ripen at the same time – the female parts ripen first, then a few hours later the male parts shed their pollen.

The simplest approach to pollination is to use an artist’s paint brush and simply pollinate every flower you can reach. Insert the brush into a flower till the tip of the brush touches the base. Twizzle it around a little to collect a little pollen then move on to the next flower. Insert the brush into each flower, rotate it just a little, then move on to the next flower, again and again.

Deal with as many flowers as you can reach. Simply leave the flowers high on the tree unpollinated, it would be difficult to harvest those fruits anyway.

This approach sets aside the need to identify whether male or female flowers are receptive – simply use the brush on them all and enough flowers should be pollinated to give you a crop.

Start hand pollinating in late spring or early summer, and go round the tree pollinating two or three times at four or five day intervals.

Cherimoya trees are fairly adaptable when it comes to soil types, happy in sand or clay, although they prefer a rich and fertile soil with good drainage.

They tend to develop a tap root, so sites with deep topsoil grow good cherimoyas but, crucially, the trees do not thrive in containers. For more beautiful species that are perfect for warmer hardiness zones, these drought-tolerant fruit tree options are great suggestions.

Such mini greenhouses are placed on the ground to create a protected space to insulate plants from frost and cold. They also make a warmer, secure environment, perfect for any last sowings of vegetables and flowers for the year. I have used such mini greenhouses before to protect later vegetable sowings, and, if you want to do the same this fall, I saw this portable mini greenhouse at Wayfair with 51% off, down to $34.59.

It is perfect if you are looking for ways to protect plants from frost or extend your sowing and harvesting season further into the fall. Versatile, easy-to-assemble, and reusable for many years to come, a Wayfair portable mini greenhouse offers a durable solution for many different situations.

Why we love the Wayfair portable mini greenhouse

One of the main things you want from such a product is for it to be sturdy and practical, and the Wayfair portable mini greenhouse ticks both of those boxes for sure.

When it comes to durability, it has a steel frame with a polythene cover to shield your plants from cold temperatures, heavy rain, and strong winds. Its size (measuring in at 46.75" x 23.5" x 23.5") means it is versatile and can be used on flower beds, vegetable gardens, or raised garden beds to cover all manner of plants.

The transparency of the cover means it keeps weather and pests out but allows light to penetrate so your plants continue to grow. However, the material is not permeable and prevents water and air from passing through.

What combats this potential issue is two semi-circular front windows as part of the design, which can be rolled up for access to water plants. These windows allow for essential air circulation, keeping the plants inside healthy and at reduced risk of fungal and bacterial diseases.

Such a portable greenhouse or cold frame offers benefits to gardeners throughout different seasons.

It makes a great, practical way to protect plants from frost. By trapping heat inside, it keeps the temperatures 5-10°F above the outside. It means it is suitable for protecting borderline hardy plants through the coldest months. However, it cannot be relied upon to protect tender plants through winter; these are better brought indoors.

If you use a Wayfair portable mini greenhouse in the fall in a productive garden, you can plant vegetables in November for quick winter harvests. Such a protective cover also extends the harvesting season for many crops, including crops that are ideally harvested before frost, such as lettuce, carrots, and turnips.

A mini greenhouse not only extends the season further into the fall, but also offers a useful way to warm up soil earlier in the spring. This means you can sow seeds outdoors in the spring earlier.

Cornflowers, snapdragons, calendula, penstemon, or more can be sown in February or March outdoors for earlier blooms. While crops, including salad leaves, carrots, and radishes, can be started earlier under protection.

A bonus is that the protection from a mini greenhouse reduces the risk of slugs or snails nibbling young seedlings when they emerge. To keep such pests out of the greenhouse, it features extended edges. It is best to bury them in the soil to prevent pests from sneaking underneath to munch on plants.

What shoppers say about the Wayfair portable mini greenhouse

Reviews for the Wayfair portable mini greenhouse tend to praise the robustness of the cold frame and how it protects their plants from cold weather. It was proclaimed to be 'easy to assemble' and for its sturdiness among the reviews.

'It's great for protecting perennials through the winter,' says one shopper.

In fact, 'great' is a frequently used term, with another buyer describing it as 'great' at protecting their kale plants and another illustrating: '[It is a] great portable greenhouse. Love the versatility and durability.'

When it comes to portability, another shopper said it was 'convenient to move' and did a great job at protecting their plants from being nibbled by rabbits.

'I love my little mini greenhouse,' says a purchaser. 'It fits perfectly over my vegetable boxes for starting seedlings in the spring. I had great success in my garden this year.'

The only niggles mentioned by shoppers regarded the cover. There were a couple of mentions of struggles fitting the cover over the frame, with one saying the polythene cover ripped while attempting to install it.

However, one shopper who did struggle with the cover admitted: 'Wayfair customer support was very professional and promised to send replacement covers.'

No matter the size of your greenhouse or cold frame, keeping it clean is an important maintenance task. It ensures the most light penetrates through the glass or plastic cover, and the mini greenhouse is free from harmful fungi or bacteria that can strike plants.

It is simple to clean a greenhouse, especially a mini one. Empty all plants out, remove any debris, and use a soft brush or sponge soaked in warm soapy water to scrub the glass or plastic cover clean.

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However, having grown dahlias for many years, I can safely say that you can save yourself a little effort at this time of year, as there are many instances where you really don’t have to dig them up.

There are, of course, some caveats, but in most cases, as long as you follow a few simple steps to keep them safe and snug in the soil, overwintering dahlias this way really works. Tubers will survive and happily bloom again the following year. Here’s my tried and tested method for leaving dahlias in the soil over winter.

What to do to protect dahlia tubers in the soil over winter

The reason we tend to dig up dahlias and store them out of the soil over winter is to keep them dry and frost-free, and prevent them from rotting over winter, as both conditions can damage and often kill off tubers.

The key thing to be aware of when leaving dahlia tubers in the soil is that they need to be kept warm, so you almost need to think of this as tucking them up in a cozy bed for the winter.

According to Maryland-based cottage garden designer Caroline Maurer, wait until the first frosts, as you would if you were planning to lift your tubers, and then cut down your dahlias to two inches above the soil.

Something Caroline suggests that I haven't done in the past is to lay the stems on top of your beds, whether your dahlias are in the ground or in raised beds. The decaying foliage will act as an extra layer of insulation and will rot back into the soil, helping to add nutrients.

What I always do, and Caroline also suggests, is to cover your beds with two feet of straw. You may need quite a bit depending on the size of your beds, and you can purchase straw in bulk from Amazon.

You can also add grass clippings and fallen leaves to the straw, which will help the composting process and insulate the beds.

Lastly, Caroline advises covering the entire bed in a waterproof tarpaulin, (I like this heavy duty one from Amazon for its more natural brown shade). Doing this will help to keep the tubers dry, as sitting in soggy, waterlogged soil will cause the tubers to rot.

This might not be such a huge concern if growing dahlias in raised beds, which have really good drainage, but definitely something to consider if you are growing them in beds and have clay soil.

When you should dig up and store your dahlias

If you live in US hardiness zones 2 - 6 and experience particularly long, harsh winters with protracted frosts, it would be a better idea to dig up your dahlia tubers and store them over the winter. Otherwise, you would have to treat them as annuals and buy new tubers or plants the following year.

The other reason you might choose to dig them up anyway would be to divide dahlias and multiply plants for your yard or cutting patch.

I usually dig up a few chosen plants every year. I tend to pick the ones that have performed the best, so that I can divide the tubers, pot them up in the spring and plant out again once the risk of frost has passed. Doing this triples the number of plants I grow without spending a dime, so it’s well worth giving it a try.

Hopefully, knowing you can leave dahlias in the soil will save you a lot of time and effort this winter. There are a lot of growing tricks when it comes to getting more from these exquisite flowers, including pinching out plants to double your dahlias and picking the right fertilizer for dahlias, too.

Garden essentials when leaving dahlias in the soil over winter

Thankfully, gardeners can do many things to help all kinds of wildlife during the winter months. And it is not difficult things, it can be simple measures like not cutting back plants and making leaf or log piles towards the back of our borders. These elementary moves might not seem much, but they make a big difference.

So, let's reveal a few of the best things you can do this month to make your yard more of a wildlife garden. Here, some gardening and wildlife experts recommend five wildlife garden jobs for November that are guaranteed to help birds, mammals, beneficial insects, frogs, reptiles, and more.

Wildlife garden jobs for November – 5 tasks to consider

November offers a great opportunity to make tangible decisions that can help garden wildlife cope through winter and into spring. It can be a tumultuous period for all manner of wildlife, so it pays to help pollinators and birds in the fall.

These wildlife garden jobs for November provide food and shelter, making a big difference. They are great ideas to add to any fall gardening checklist.

1. Leave seedheads

The seedheads of many popular perennial plants come to the fore in the fall, as they become an increasingly vital food source for birds. There are huge benefits to resisting the urge to deadhead plants late in the season and opting not to cut back all perennials in the fall.

Dr Amy Karpati, Senior Science Advisor at Teatown Lake Reservation, claims both the seedheads of flowers and grasses can provide 'critical food' for birds, including goldfinches, cardinals, chickadees, and sparrows, during the colder months, when their food sources are limited.

And it is some of the most common flower bed plants that can make a difference, with the likes of coneflower, black-eyed Susan, verbena, goldenrod, and sunflowers all great plants for seedheads. Keep those pruning shears tucked away in the fall, and these plants will provide an essential energy-rich food source for all manner of birds.

Andrew Marshall, garden designer and owner at Go Wild Landscapes, highlights one other hugely important plant to leave untouched this season.

He says: 'Teasel heads are a great example of something that many birds really love to eat, important at a time when there may be less food available and, due to the colder weather, birds need to eat more.'

2. Don't over-tidy

If you prefer a tidy garden over winter and leaving dried flower heads gives you the ick, then you may not like this either. However, leaving old stems on flower beds, collecting piles of leaves, and piling up debris, sticks, and logs is a highly valuable way a gardener can provide habitat for animals that hibernate through winter.

Dr Amy Karpati describes providing winter shelter as 'the best thing gardeners can do to support wildlife through the cold months', and she reveals the breadth of wildlife that can reap the benefits of these simple measures.

'Woody debris piles, an undisturbed layer of fallen leaves, and standing dried wildflowers and grasses all provide shelter for birds, small mammals, and beneficial insects,' says Amy.

'Fallen leaves can be left in place or raked into perennial beds or other yard edges for insects like butterflies and fireflies that overwinter as eggs, pupae, or larvae under the leaves before emerging as adults the following spring and summer.'

Such leaf piles, log piles, or wildlife stacks don't always have to be front and center in the flower bed. Simple DIY wildlife shelters can be put at the back of borders or stacked behind a shed.

Jen Rose, the founder of Bee Cups, highlights how making such piles can support bees. It is a good way to make your garden wildlife-friendly before frost rather than impacting the bees' life cycle by over-tidying a garden in the fall.

'Many native bees and other beneficial insects nest in hollow flower stems or decaying wood, so resist the urge to over-tidy your garden,' says the bee expert. 'When cleaning up, avoid tossing out potential future pollinators; those stems and sticks may be home to next year's bees.

'Instead, gather your garden clippings into a small brush pile placed away from your home, and wait until temperatures warm again in spring before mulching or bagging them.'

3. Add late and early food sources

One of the longer-term wildlife garden jobs for November you can do is to fill your yard with late and early food. Think shrubs with fall berries, plants with winter berries, spring bulbs, and spring-flowering plants.

Adding a mixture of these to your backyard ideas can provide a readily accessible food source for wildlife throughout the colder months. Fall can be an ideal time to plant shrubs, before the frosts arrive, to provide food for many winters to come.

'Late fall is the perfect time for adding wildlife-supporting shrubs and bulbs,' says Peter Ivanov, plant expert at Fantastic Gardeners. 'The shrubs can be hawthorn, holly, crab apple, dog rose and hazel, which provide berries and shelter.'

Dr Amy Karpati also highlights winterberry as a native plant that retains fruits throughout winter, making them 'especially valuable as a food source' in a winter garden. You can get a live winterberry shrub at Nature Hills for those attractive red berries in the colder months.

In terms of spring bulbs, plant crocus for nectar-rich blooms in spring, while hellebores, grape hyacinth, snowdrops, and winter aconite all provide early nectar for early pollinators out hunting for food in early spring.

4. Pile stones

Many people will have read lots about log piles for wildlife, but the importance of stone piles is often less highlighted. They can provide shelter for amphibians, reptiles, and invertebrates, protecting them against cold winter weather and making an ideal spot for overwintering.

'If you have a big collection of rocks or bricks that you haven't found a use for, just pile them up and leave them undisturbed in a sheltered space, preferably out of sight if you think it might be an eyesore,' advises Andrew Marshall. 'This will become a great space for reptiles to hibernate over winter, as well as a great spot for insects to live.'

Pick a spot where the wildlife can get cover and pile rocks or stones of varying sizes, which will create cavities and tunnels. Leaving a wildlife corridor of untrimmed plants or grass helps any visitors get shelter on their way to the stone.

A slightly bigger wildlife garden job for November can be to build a garden pond. As well as encourage more wildlife and provide lots of different habitats, Andrew adds: 'It can attract toads which will end up eating lots of slugs and snails - a handy way of managing pests in a more environmentally friendly way.'

5. Clean nesting boxes

This month is a good time to clean nesting and roosting boxes, as all nesting activity will have stopped for the year.

Cleaning birdhouses kills parasites, making them safe for small birds to use during colder weather. You can also clean empty bat boxes in November, though some may be in use as bats hibernate in the winter.

Check the box is empty before scrubbing out any dirt and pouring boiling water inside to kill any remaining parasites. Avoid using chemical cleaners, which can prove harmful to birds. Hang the box back up after it has thoroughly dried.

Another way to help garden birds for winter is to hang bird feeders. As natural food sources are potentially at their lowest at these times of year, supplementing them with a bird feeder for fall and winter is a great way to help birds.

Maria Kincaid, an ornithologist from FeatherSnap, claims: ‘Hanging it in the fall allows for the birds to get used to it being there before the amount of those natural food sources drops - it may even allow for those caching species, like chickadees and nuthatches, to build a little hoard for the lean times.'

If you want to see your garden visitors up close during the fall and winter, a bird feeder camera allows you to enjoy pictures of your garden friends. You can get ones, such as the bird buddy feeder, available from Amazon, which use AI technology to identify the birds you see on the camera.

If you're seeking further inspiration to turn your garden into a safe haven for wildlife during winter, we're here to assist. This guide to winter plants for wildlife highlights five excellent choices that offer food and shelter during the colder months.

It showcases some great plants you can add to your yard to provide vital winter cover from the weather and predators, plus those with edible winter berries and flowers for early spring pollinators.

First, there are the small, five-petaled, mainly white flowers that open in late spring or early summer and which are exceptionally popular with bees. These are followed by clusters of showy berries, usually in red, though also in orange or occasionally yellow. They are one of the best shrubs for fall berries.

Cotoneasters may be confused with pyracanthas and hawthorns (Crataegus) but they are distinct in having no thorns. They are mainly robust and adaptable, thriving in many soils and situations. The foliage is also known to help absorb pollution from car exhausts and purify the air around us better than most trees, making them a fantastic tree for a front yard.

Cotoneaster key facts

• Plant type: Deciduous and evergreen shrubs or small trees
• Mature size: 2-15ft (60cm-4.5m)
• Soil type: Any well-drained soil
• Soil pH: Slightly acid, neutral or slightly alkaline
• Time to plant: Spring or fall
• Flowering time: Early summer
• Flower color: White, sometimes pinkish
• Hardiness zones: USDA zones 2-7
• Scientific name: Cotoneaster
• Common name: Cotoneaster

The four main types of cotoneaster

The most obvious distinctions are between large and small cotoneasters, and between evergreen and deciduous types.

The taller species from their beauty in fruit, grace of habit, and vigorous constitution, are admirable constituents of the tall shrubbery, but they are still better as isolated specimens on the lawn.

The smaller species make useful and handsome coverings for sloping, sunny banks, and the smallest of all are very well adapted as rockery plants.

The birds appreciate the berries on these shrubs as much as we do, but often feed on other berries first, lengthening the garden display. Flowers and berries may come in twos or threes, but the most attractive cotoneasters have heads 2-3in across with around a hundred flowers and then berries.

• Large cotoneasters: With a single trunk or with multiple stems, tall types make impressive specimens in lawns or at the back of mixed borders.
• Small cotoneasters: Lower growing kinds either spread more or less horizontally or make rounded bushes.
• Deciduous: Many deciduous cotoneasters develop fiery fall foliage and a few reveal a striking herringbone branch structure when the leaves fall.
• Evergreen: The foliage of evergreen cotoneasters varies from bold and glossy to neat and dull and can be as much as 6in (15cm) long. In colder areas, some of the leaves may drop in fall.

How to use cotoneaster in your backyard

• Hedging plants: Cotoneaster franchetii is evergreen or deciduous, depending on the climate, and has orange berries and sage-green leaves.
• Border plants: The white-edged foliage of Cotoneaster atropurpureus ‘Variegatus’, sometimes sold as 'Northern Borders', develops pink tones in fall along with rows of scarlet berries.
• Specimen: Cotoneaster ‘Cornubia’ is a tall, elegant evergreen shrub or small tree with spectacular clusters of red berries.
• Wall shrubs: Allowed to fan out over a wall or fence, the herringbone branches and red berries of Cotoneaster atropurpureus stand out well.
• In the rock garden: The prostrate stems of Cotoneaster dammeri, with their sparkling red berries, spread out widely and turn down from raised beds.
• Ground cover plants: The tight, dark, prostrate growth of red-berried Cotoneaster ‘Streib’s Findling’ smothers weeds well.

You can find several varieties of cotoneaster available to order from Nature Hills. You can also find Cotoneaster 'autumn inferno' shrubs from Home Depot, with the most wonderful fiery red berries.

How to plant cotoneasters

Cotoneasters are best in full sun, although some, especially ground cover types, are happy in light shade.

They grow very well in fertile, well-drained conditions but will also thrive in poor soil, gravelly sites and heavy clay soil, especially if the planting site is amended with garden compost or other organic matter.

No special planting techniques are required; plant in the same way as other garden shrubs. Staking is not usually necessary.

Do not allow newly-planted cotoneasters to dry out, the roots of evergreen types in particular can become dry in windy conditions and will be slow to recover. Mulch immediately after planting to retain moisture and prevent weed growth and keep them well watered in their first year.

How to care for cotoneasters

Cotoneasters are resilient, low-maintenance shrubs, usually developing into attractive plants despite a lack of care and attention which might cause other shrubs to struggle.

However, if growth is slow, then a fall application of rose fertilizer (available on Amazon) will help, followed by a mulch of weed-free organic matter to help retain moisture and prevent the development of weeds.

Cotoneasters have a habit of developing into well-shaped plants without any pruning, shaping or trimming, although if a branch grows especially strongly and spoils the shape it can be cut back after flowering.

Old and straggly specimens can be cut back hard, if necessary, in spring and will quickly regrow. But, be sure the plant never dries out in its first months after treatment.

Cotoneasters grown as hedges should not be trimmed into a formal shape, but allowed to grow more naturally. Cut back the longest growths after flowering to keep it to the size you require.

How to propagate and make more cotoneasters

There are three ways to make more cotoneasters: seeds, layering and taking cuttings from plants.

Each cotoneaster berry contains up to five seeds, and these are spread by birds. So seedlings often pop up around the garden, and these can be dug up when they are about 6in (15cm) high and transplanted to grow on.

After two or three years, they can be moved to a permanent position. The problem with growing cotoneasters from seed is that the new plants do not always resemble the plants from which the seeds came.

Any cotoneasters with low branches can be layered. That is, low or prostrate stems can be laid on the ground then a stone or brick placed to keep the stem in contact with the soil. Roots will usually develop and the rooted part can be cut off and replanted elsewhere.

Cotoneasters can also be rooted from 6in (15cm) cuttings taken in early or midsummer. But, without specialist equipment, few will usually take.

Common problems with cotoneaster

The main problem that afflicts cotoneasters is fireblight, a bacterial disease that occurs naturally in North America but which has now spread to the rest of the world, except Australia.

Fireblight attacks some, but not all, members of the rose family and occurs most often on pears but also on apples and crab apples, hawthorn, quinces, sorbus, photinia, raspberry, pyracantha – and cotoneaster.

The main symptoms are flowers wilting and dying, a white ooze is sometimes seen, and the shoots shriveling up and looking burned as the infection moves into the branches. Under the bark, the wood develops a reddish coloring. Death of flower clusters is followed by the death of branches and, when the disease moves to the roots, the death of the plant.

The only treatment is to prune out infected branches, plus 2ft (60cm) of healthy growth beneath the red-stained wood. Clean and disinfect tools between cuts to avoid spreading the disease.

FAQs

Is cotoneaster poisonous?

'Cotoneaster is poisonous in large amounts and may cause trouble breathing, weakness and seizures,' says the Children's Hospital of Philadelphia, while some experts note that the berries are of doubtful, or low, toxicity.

Gastrointestinal problems may also occur after eating a very large quantity of berries. However, the berries are dry and unpalatable, so even the birds usually leave them till late in the season.

Cotoneaster berries very rarely cause problems for carnivorous pets. Cats and dogs do not find them palatable, but sheep and cattle can be at risk.

Is cotoneaster deer resistant?

The New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station at Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey, has assessed a wide range of garden plants for their resistance to deer by consulting master gardeners, landscape designers, nursery growers, garden writers and other experts.

Cotoneasters, both evergreen and deciduous, are rated as 'seldom severely damaged'. Only those rated as 'rarely damaged' are considered as more deer-resistant plants.

Is cotoneaster invasive?

Yes, some cotoneasters are invasive plants. For example, cotoneaster has become a serious problem in Golden Gate Park, CA where it is smothering the wild lupines on which the larvae of the federally-endangered mission blue butterfly feed. May acres of cotoneaster have now been removed.

Unfortunately, identifying the different cotoneaster species can be difficult, even for experts, so it pays to seek advice from your local extension service before choosing.

These four invasive cotoneasters are causing the greatest concern: Cotoneaster franchetii (US west coast); Cotoneaster horizontalis (US west coast, Ontario); Cotoneaster lacteus (US west coast); and Cotoneaster simonsii (US west coast, British Columbia). If you would like to plant a cotoneaster, play safe by avoiding these species.

Some cotoneasters, especially evergreens, are fast-growing shrubs and soon make good-sized plants that create impact when in flower and dazzle the garden when in full fruit in the fall. ‘Cornubia’ (red berries) and ‘Rothschildianus’ (yellow berries) stand out, but may not be evergreen in cold winters (US below zone 7).

By contrast, many grow more slowly, such as the deciduous Cotoneaster horizontalis (red berries) or ‘Cotoneaster microphyllus (red berries)’ or creep along the ground like ‘Gnom’ (red berries) and ‘Coral Beauty’ (orange berries). Check the descriptions on plant tags and websites carefully before choosing.

As the temperatures drop and the first light frosts arrive, it might not sound like the ideal time to start growing milkweed. However, there is method in this perceived madness. As sowing in the fall mimics nature and removes one hurdle you need to overcome when planting milkweed seeds in the spring.

If you are tempted to plant milkweed seeds in the fall, this guide reveals the best varieties to sow this season, along with four super-simple sowing steps to follow. It won't take up much of your time this fall, and the results will make it all worthwhile. You'll get bright blooms that support butterflies, as well as bees, hummingbirds, and other beneficial insects.

Can you plant milkweed in the fall?

Yes, you can plant many varieties of milkweed seeds in the fall. It is a great way to grow a fantastic plant for pollinators, especially with milkweed being the only host plant for Monarch butterflies.

Their population has declined hugely over the last 20 years, making it an important time for more gardeners to consider growing milkweed for Monarch butterflies.

As fall is an ideal time to plant milkweed seeds for plants to bolster your wildlife garden next year, why not add this simple task to your fall gardening checklist and let nature do its course?

Why you should plant milkweed seeds in fall

Milkweed seeds require a period of cold stratification to exit dormancy and sprout. While many gardeners replicate nature by stratifying seeds in a refrigerator in spring when sowing seeds indoors, the beauty of planting milkweed seeds in the fall is that you can stratify the seeds naturally.

Sowing in the fall lets nature do the work for you. This is far easier than artificially mimicking nature by having seeds in a container taking up space in your refrigerator for 30 days or more (potentially up to 60 days for the best results from some varieties).

In mid-to-late fall, the soil will be cold enough to stop the seeds from germinating without the ground being frozen – this is the perfect time to sow. When planning an ideal window for planting milkweed seeds in the fall, aim for just after the first light fall frosts.

This likely means sowing seeds outdoors in mid-October for zone 5, late October for zone 6, early November for zone 7, mid-November for zone 8, and as late as early December for zone 9. Keep an eye on the local forecasts, so you sow the seeds before the first ground frosts.

However, it is not a one-size-fits-all approach for all milkweed. Not all varieties of milkweed require stratification. It is advisable to check seed packets for information on whether they need it.

If you have harvested milkweed seeds from existing plants, the typical perennial varieties that need cold stratification include common milkweed, swamp milkweed, whorled milkweed, butterfly weed, and showy milkweed. Tropical milkweed and other annual varieties do not need it.

How to plant milkweed seeds in fall – 4 simple steps

The best way to plant milkweed seeds in fall is outdoors, directly into their desired growing position.

You can sow them in pots, with a view to transplanting seedlings outdoors after they have sprouted in the spring. However, you do need to ensure the pots have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging and are protected throughout winter and spring to stop them blowing over or getting damaged.

Planting milkweed seeds outdoors in the fall can be done in the following simple steps:

1. Pick a sunny spot in your yard with well-draining soil. It can be in flower beds, mixed borders, or dedicated wildflower meadows. Clear the area of weeds, debris, and large stones, and rake the soil level before sowing.
2. Water the ground if it is dry before sowing, and let the water soak into the soil.
3. Scatter the milkweed seeds over the surface and gently rake them over to work them into the soil.
4. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of more soil or compost. Then add an inch or two of mulch, such as straw or chopped up leaves.

The seeds will quietly sit there over the winter and begin to sprout once the soil temperatures warm in the spring. Milkweed seeds tend to germinate once the soil reaches 65°F to 75°F, which you can check in spring with a soil thermometer.

The milkweed seedlings will likely need to be thinned out once they appear in spring, starting at six inches but ultimately to around 18 inches apart, so plants can reach their full size.

The exact spacing required can depend on the type of milkweed, but it is better to start small and increase over time. You can always dig up plants and move them elsewhere in your yard.

Shop milkweed seeds for fall planting

There are many other flowers you can sow in the fall, too, as you take advantage of cold snaps sparking the seeds into life come the spring. For lots of inspiration, our guide to the best flowers to sow in the fall reveals 16 seeds to plant during the season for a bounty of blooms the following year.

This was an annual routine I undertook while caring for a large collection of citrus trees, including varieties of lemons, oranges, and limes, at a historic garden in the Midlands of the UK (US hardiness zone 8). The trees spent the colder months in an old orangery and were put on display outside for the warmer months.

October and November are prime months to start the process of overwintering citrus trees in pots. If you need to move yours indoors and haven't done it yet, consider this a call to action. To help you with overwintering citrus, I look at five key steps to follow to prepare the trees for winter and keep them healthy during their months indoors.

A guide to overwintering citrus trees in pots - 5 steps to follow

Growing citrus in pots opens up possibilities for gardeners in cooler climates to enjoy cultivating the tender fruits.

The plants can live year-round in protected environments, such as a greenhouse or conservatory, or be brought outside as patio plants for the summer to give a Mediterranean garden feel, before being moved back indoors to overwinter once the temperatures drop.

If you want to know more about overwintering citrus trees, the following are five key steps to follow for healthy trees:

1. Keep an eye on temperatures

Be proactive and ready to act quickly once the timing is right. That includes monitoring your temperatures and weather forecasts to move tender plants indoors ahead of predicted cold blasts.

Citrus trees are frost-tender. They like warm conditions and minimum temperatures of 50°F; though their cold tolerance varies depending on the type and cultivar.

While some lemon varieties can tolerate temperatures below 40°F, their hardiness is reduced in containers. When growing fruit trees in pots, the trees' roots are more susceptible to frost than when growing in the ground.

Be prepared to start overwintering citrus trees once temperatures consistently head down to around 50°F, and certainly before the first hard frost for your climate. Citrus trees can be damaged at around 25-28°F.

While growers in US hardiness zones 10 and above can keep citrus outdoors year-round, those in zones 8-9 should move their plants indoors between mid-October and mid-November. While in zones 7 and below, it may be early to mid-October.

If you live in a climate where overwintering citrus trees is required, add it to your fall gardening checklist and monitor the forecasts, as you may need to go early if there is a sudden drop in temperatures.

2. Prepare the tree for winter

Citrus trees are susceptible to all manner of unwanted pests, including aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, and spider mites.

These pests can survive and thrive indoors over winter, away from many of their usual predators. It is best to try to deal with them and avoid them breeding during the winter.

Many small insects can be knocked off the tree with a strong jet of water, while you can spray trees with insecticidal soap to get rid of aphids and other insects. You can purchase a ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart that can be sprayed onto trees to control a variety of insects.

A DIY solution is to make a homemade bug spray from water and liquid soap to deal with infestations. Spray the citrus tree weekly until the infestation is gone.

You can take this opportunity to lightly prune citrus trees, removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches and making small cuts to shape the tree so it can conveniently fit indoors.

3. Bring them indoors

The ideal location for overwintering citrus trees indoors is bright and warm. They still want as much light as possible, ideally five hours of direct sunlight a day, in a greenhouse, conservatory, sunroom, or in front of a bright window.

Keep the trees at temperatures between 55°F and 65°F. Avoid placing them near heat sources, such as radiators, fireplaces, or heating ducts, which can dry the leaves, or near fluctuating temperatures caused by cold drafts or air conditioners.

One often neglected part of overwintering plants indoors is preparing them for life inside. Just as you harden plants off to go outside, you should do a similar thing before bringing them back inside.

Marina Prokaten, expert at the identifier and plant care app Plantum, advises you to 'expose the greenery to warmth gradually' rather than just bring the tree inside and be done with it.

'The shocking change in temperature may, at the very least, make your plant sick, and, in the worst but possible case, cause its death,' warns Marina.

She recommends first moving the citrus tree to a 'cooler location' outdoors for two days.

'Next, let it spend some time of the day inside, at temperatures similar to the cool ones it's experienced outside, for a week. Make sure to increase the time your plant spends indoors bit by bit,' adds Marina.

'Lastly, move the acclimated citrus tree to its permanent location.'

4. Reduce watering

Overwintering citrus trees still need watering throughout the colder months, only at a reduced level compared to during the warmer summer time.

To gauge when to water plants in containers, use your fingers to assess the levels two or three inches underneath the surface or use a soil moisture meter, such as this 3-in-1 soil meter at Amazon. Water plants deeply once the top few inches are dry.

However, take care not to overwater plants, as citrus trees dislike sitting in wet soil during the colder times of year. This watering mistake can cause the leaves of the citrus tree to turn yellow and drop.

To help with drainage, it is recommended to raise the pots off the ground using pot risers, such as these heavy-duty hexagonal pot feet at Amazon. Using pot feet helps excess water to drain away, preventing waterlogging and root rot.

Citrus trees do like humidity, so it can help them to mist the leaves regularly when growing indoors.

5. Adjust your feeding regime

In a similar vein to watering, continue to fertilize citrus trees in containers indoors over winter, but reduce the frequency of feeding compared to a summer regime.

With the citrus collection I helped maintain, the feeding regime dropped to once a month when the trees were overwintering, compared to every other week during the summer months.

While overwintering citrus indoors, feed plants with a balanced citrus-specific fertilizer to support overall development and health. For example, this citrus fertilizer at Amazon has an NPK of 6-4-6 and can be sprinkled around the tree monthly, mixed into the top inch of soil, and watered in.

FAQs

What is the lowest temperature a citrus tree can survive?

It all depends on the type of citrus tree, as some are much more cold-hardy than others. Many of the most common types, such as lemons, limes, and oranges, are severely damaged by temperatures in the mid-to-high 20s. There are some types, such as kumquats and satsuma mandarins, that can tolerate as low as 18°F. Most trees can tolerate short periods of low temperatures, but can be critically damaged by several hours of such cold.

A banana tree is another fruit tree that needs overwintering in colder climates, as frosts can kill the tropical tree. You can overwinter banana trees as tropical houseplants if you have the space. An alternative is to cut the plants back to 4-8 inches from the ground and overwinter the stump in a container in a cool, frost-free location.

Mulching is vital fall prep to ensure our garden soil is at optimum health come spring. Covering bare soil is a way of locking in nutrients and moisture, preventing erosion and other winter damage, and insulating plants against harsh frosts, keeping them snug throughout the cold months. But mulching can also be quite time-consuming. Fallen leaves, pine needles, compost and even grass clippings are all potentially free fall mulching materials, however, it takes time and effort to gather and transport them, and deposit them evenly onto bare soil.

Well, I have the best time-saving alternative for you: cardboard. Recycling old boxes and packaging on the soil genuinely works as a type of mulch. It’s eco-friendly, uses up all that unwanted cardboard we have at home at this time of year, and will save you so much time in the yard. Here’s everything you need to know about using cardboard as mulch.

What you need to know about using cardboard as mulch

Last year, I covered all the garden beds in my front yard with cardboard. I had cut back all my perennials, pruned a lot of old plants and cleared the weeds, which left large areas of bare earth.

Leaving these uncovered and exposed over winter would have risked potential damage to the soil, loss of nutrients, and even worse, rapid weed regrowth as soon as the weather started to warm up, undoing all my hard work.

I have a large garden, but I am time poor when it comes to keeping it looking beautiful, so hacks like these are my saviour: Instead of spending hours digging, tilling, and shovelling woodchips and fallen leaves onto my flower beds, I simply laid down sheets of cardboard.

Cardboard naturally decomposes and adds nutrients, such as carbon, to the soil, and improves soil structure. It also forms a protective barrier over the soil, locks in moisture, and suppresses weeds.

But here is the trick. Don’t just place one layer of cardboard down and leave it at that. Cover your soil with two or even three overlapping layers. Doing so will create an effective weed barrier and will really work to keep your perennials happy in the soil over winter.

One layer isn’t usually enough, and you’ll find weeds can easily find their way through or around it, invading your beds once more as soon as the temperatures warm up.

How to use cardboard as mulch, a simple step-by-step

• Step 1: Collapse your cardboard boxes and make sure you remove any plastic tape, labels, staples or any other synthetic material before you place it on the soil. Also take care not to use any colorful cardboard that has been dyed or has a lot of print on it, as this could lead to chemicals leaching into the soil.
• Step 2: Lay your cardboard over your beds, overlapping with two or three layers. You can weigh them down at this point with large stones or bricks if you have them, so stop them blowing away.
• Step 3: To help the cardboard decompose more quickly, and to keep it in place, at this point, I grab the hose and water it thoroughly. To make it even easier for yourself, you could plan to lay your cardboard just before rain is forecast, and the weather will do this job for you.
• Step 4: This one is optional, but you could add a layer of topsoil or homemade compost over your cardboard to help it decompose faster. Definitely do this if you are planning to create no-dig gardening beds.

Over the colder months, you can leave the cardboard to rot down into the soil, and come spring I guarantee your plants will be stronger and flowers will bloom brighter. Everything starts in the soil, and the more you can look after it and feed it, the happier your plants will be. There are lots of other easy ways to boost soil nutrients, too, which you can discover more about in our dedicated guide.

Shop your fall gardening essentials

Before the weather turns really cold, November is the perfect month to construct DIY wildlife shelters to help birds, mammals, amphibians and insects through the chilliest days.

Whether it's by judicious planting, using sustainable, eco-friendly gardening practices, leaving an area of the yard to grow a little wild or making your own wildlife shelters, there are lots of things we can do to welcome wildlife into our yards in late fall.

1. Create shelter with existing perennials and garden pots

Being too tidy in the fall is one of the biggest seasonal yard cleaning mistakes and can actually harm garden wildlife instead of encouraging it to visit.

One of the simplest ways of attracting wildlife to your yard in the fall is to tie together some sturdy but hollow stems of perennials such as elegant angelica and either hang them somewhere sheltered or push them among the branches of a bush to provide a safe overwintering spot for solitary bees and other bugs.

Another is to stuff small pots with straw, moss and leaves and nestle them into nooks and crannies around the garden where creatures can crawl inside to shelter.

The fall and winter are key times for pruning but instead of shredding removed material, consider arranging some of it in a loose pile somewhere quiet and out of the way to create a natural shelter and hibernation home.

Tuck some moss, straw, leaves and pieces of hollow bamboo canes in among the wood for extra insulation, comfort and warmth.

You could also cover it with a tarpaulin like this one on Amazon for extra warmth and security.

2. Make a dead hedge

Or why not use your fall prunings and clearings to make a dead hedge? This is one of the laziest composting methods and also gives garden wildlife somewhere to hide.

Start by hammering some sturdy wooden stakes, like these 4ft stakes on Amazon, into the ground in two staggered rows roughly 1.5 to 22ft apart.

Now cut your pruned branches into manageable lengths and weave them between the stakes, starting at the bottom and moving up.

You can then fill gaps with cornstalks, pinecones, perennial stems, fallen leaves, greenery and moss to create a cozy home and perching spot for birds, small mammals, amphibians and insects.

Over time, the contents of the hedge will break down and can be used as compost in the yard, and you can replace them each fall with new prunings.

3. Make a hanging basket bird shelter

Garden birds like to have somewhere safe and snug to roost in winter so why not make them a home from an old hanging basket?

For this project you will need:

• A wicker hanging basket like this seagrass pair on Amazon
• Short, thin canes like these 8in bamboo plant stakes at Amazon
• A length of thatch. It could be artificial like this Mexican Style Artificial Palm Thatch Roof Roll on Amazon, or natural like this Natural Mexican Palm Thatch Runner Roll at Walmart.
• Garden wire like this flexible roll on Amazon.
• Scissors or a sharp knife like this retractable Workpro utility knife at Amazon.

How to construct your bird shelter:

• Step 1: Carefully cut a bird-sized hole in the side of the basket
• Step 2: Insert the slim canes around the top of the basket and tie their tops together to form a triangular framework.
• Step 3: Wind the straw roll around the framework until it creates a weatherproof roof, then carefully cut to size..
• Step 4: Secure the roof with wire, making several hoops as you go up the roof.
• Step 5: Fill the shelter with moss, straw and leaves but leave room for birds to get in and out.
• Step 6: Securely attach your bird shelter to a tree with more wire. Set it somewhere open so birds can feel safe from predators, but make sure you can watch it from the house to see who moves in.

4. Create a simple tin can bug hotel

This is a simple but fun wet-day project that will greatly benefit the beneficial insects and pollinators in your yard.

What you need:

• A clean tin can (any food can will do)
• Moulding clay or plasticine like this Van Aaken modelling clay at Amazon
• Lengths of hollow cane like these bamboo tubes for mason bees on Amazon
• Garden twine

How to make your simple bug hotel:

• Step 1: Thoroughly wash the can in hot soapy water and remove the label.
• Step 2: Press the can base into a thin layer of the plasticine then cut around the outline and carefully press the plasticine into the bottom of the tin
• Step 3: Insert the hollow bamboo tubes into the can and press them against the plasticine so they are held firm
• Step 4: Fit as many canes as possible into the tin and stuff any gaps with moss, leaves and straw.
• Step 5: Tie a length of garden twine around the tin, and hang it somewhere sheltered in your yard.

FAQs

Can I use human hair or pet fur in my DIY wildlife shelters?

We don’t recommend hair or pet fur because of the chemicals used in shampoos and styling products, and also because flea treatments used on pets can harm and even kill wild birds.

However, feathers collected on fall walks and from the garden, as well as the stems and seedheads of grasses can be used and make excellent natural insulation.

What are the best kinds of natural wildlife garden shelters?

Evergreen trees and shrubs offer year-round shelter for birds, small mammals and insects. They also offer privacy and help protect the yard from strong winds and rain.

The best and also easiest-to-grow evergreens like holly, juniper, pine, and arborvitae offer shelter and food to overwintering birds and wildlife. These are all available from Nature Hills.

Deciduous trees and shrubs such as dogwood and climbing roses also offer shelter and places where birds can roost. These are both available at Nature Hills.

Fruit trees also offer food as well as shelter and there is a good range available at Fast Growing Trees. This fall, leave some wind-fallen apples and pears on the ground for wildlife to feast upon.

As they die back after summer, the leaves and stems of perennial plants provide shelter for smaller creatures such as frogs, toads, insects and invertebrates. Although some need cuttings back, there are other varieties that should be left standing in the fall.

Hollow stems provide a snug home for overwintering insects such as bees and beetles, as well as beneficial pest predators such as centipedes and spiders.

Although there are plenty of natural places to shelter in a yard, your garden wildlife will appreciate every little bit of extra help, and you can gave great fun and ingenuity creating your own DIY shelters.

If you live in warmer climates and plant caladium bulbs, you can leave the tropical plants in the ground for winter. Any gardeners with colder winters aren't so fortunate, so they need to know how to overwinter caladiums indoors. This can be achieved by lifting and storing the bulbs or relocating plants in pots indoors.

This in-depth guide to how to overwinter caladiums looks at the three ways of doing so. It includes simple steps to follow, whether you need to mulch plants outdoors or lift, cure and store bulbs indoors over the winter.

How to overwinter caladiums – a word of caution

Always wear gloves when handling caladiums, as the plant produces a sap that can irritate the skin. Don't forget gloves when planting, pruning, and digging up bulbs as part of overwintering caladium plants.

How to overwinter caladiums outdoors in warmer zones

Caladiums can be grown as perennials in US hardiness zones 9 to 11. They can be left in the ground to survive over winter in many circumstances, but will still benefit from protection.

After the caladium foliage dies back, place a thick layer of mulch over the plants to insulate them from the cold. A three-inch layer of compost, straw, shredded leaves, or wood chips (such as this premium organic mulch available at Amazon) will retain moisture in the ground and protect the bulbs throughout winter.

If you have wet winters or a heavy soil type that holds onto moisture, it is better to lift and store caladium bulbs, as they risk rotting in sodden ground over winter otherwise.

How to overwinter caladiums indoors in colder climates

If you live in climates with cold winters, including US hardiness zones 8 and below, you need to overwinter plants indoors by lifting and storing the bulbs.

This process begins once soil temperatures drop to around 60°F, which you can check with a soil moisture meter like this one available on Amazon. This occurs in late October or November, depending on your climate.

Once the temperatures reach this point, carefully dig up the caladium bulbs. You want to keep the foliage attached, rather than cut the leaves down at this point. Knock large clumps of soil off the bulbs, but don't worry about removing all the dirt. Then put them in a cool, dry location for two weeks to dry and cure.

After the curing period, once the leaves have shrivelled up and the bulb feels dry, cut off the foliage an inch above the bulbs, trim the roots, and brush off any soil remaining. Place the bulbs in a cardboard box on a thin layer of sand, sawdust, vermiculite or sphagnum moss, and then cover them with a few inches of the same medium.

Place the box in a cool, dry location where it will get temperatures of 55-60°F through winter, such as a shed, garage, or porch. Check the bulbs at least once a month, and remove any that show signs of rotting. If they appear to be drying out too much, lightly spray the packing material with water.

The overwintered caladium bulbs can be removed from storage and planted outdoors after the last spring frosts.

How to overwinter caladiums in pots

If you grow them in pots as a tropical patio plant in a container garden, you can overwinter caladiums in their pots rather than lift and store the bulbs.

It is not a perennial to grow as a houseplant over winter, as you still let the bulb go dormant. But overwintering caladiums in pots is a quick and easy way to overwinter the tender plant indoors.

Stop regularly watering come fall, and then move the container indoors once the temperatures start to drop below 60°F. Cut down the foliage once it wilts with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears.

Place the pot in a cool, dry, and dark environment for winter, such as a garage, outbuilding, or cupboard, and keep a close eye to ensure the soil remains slightly damp, which prevents the bulb from drying out.

Come spring, top up the pot with a quality soil for container gardening (such as this organic potting mix at Burpee) and move the plant back outdoors to start growing again for the new season.

FAQs

What temperature is too cold for caladiums?

When temperatures consistently drop below 60°F, it is getting too cold for caladiums. This is the stage to start taking measures to overwinter caladiums. A frost is capable of destroying the bulb.

What month do caladiums go dormant?

Caladium bulbs start to go dormant in the fall. Stop watering or feeding plants at this stage, and allow the foliage to die back naturally before mulching the plants or lifting the bulbs.

Caladiums do make great shade plants as they can tolerate as little as four hours of sunlight a day. They can bring a tropical garden vibe even to the darker corners of your yard. Other great plants to brighten up such difficult shady areas include heuchera (coral bells), dicentra (bleeding heart), and hellebores (columbine).

When it comes to forcing bulbs in water, there are only a handful of steps to follow. But, not all indoor bulbs to force for Christmas are suited to a hydroponic growing method. Amaryllis, for example, is often better forced in soil.

However, there are a handful of the best indoor bulbs to grow in water that will look beautiful in a clear vessel, where the bulb and roots make up part of the display. Here, an indoor growing expert shares her top three picks of bulbs you can grow in water for a festive display.

3 of the Best Indoor Bulbs to Grow in Water

Forcing bulbs for Christmas does require some preparation a few weeks in advance, but early November offers a last window to start forcing bulbs in time for a flourishing festive display. Here are three of the best indoor bulbs to grow in water:

1. Paperwhites

First on the list of indoor bulbs to grow in water is paperwhites, a dainty type of narcissi that looks gorgeous when grown in a tall, narrow vase (like this one from Amazon).

'You can grow paperwhites in a hyacinth forcing jar (from Amazon), but I find that you usually want to grow more than one at a time, which makes growing them in a shallow dish without drainage holes the best option,' notes Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor growing expert at Healthy Houseplants.

'Fill the dish with gravel, marbles, pebbles (from Amazon), or sand and add water just below the bottom of the planting medium,' Julie advises. 'Then work the paperwhites into the medium so that the first half of the bulb is submerged (pointed side upwards). Space one to two inches apart for an impressive display.'

You should plant paperwhites in water in the fall for a festive display, as they take four to six weeks to bloom indoors. Make sure they're kept in a cool, dark spot until they start to sprout. They can then be moved somewhere brighter to encourage blooming.

Find paperwhite bulbs on Amazon.

2. Crocus

This indoor bulb to grow in water is a bit more challenging, but it's certainly a rewarding endeavour.

'To grow crocus bulbs in water indoors, you need to chill them beforehand for around 12 weeks by placing them in the refrigerator in a paper bag away from ethylene producers like apples (which could start decaying the bulb),' Julie describes.

This chill period works much the same as seed stratification, kickstarting growth when the crocus bulbs are planted in the hydroponic set-up.

It's also important to choose spring-flowering crocus bulbs (from Amazon) for forcing at this time of year.

'You can then plant them much like paperwhites, but since the bulbs are smaller, you will want a smaller dish to grow them,' Julie suggests.

Something like this amaryllis bulb vase from Amazon would make the perfect vessel for indoor crocus bulbs.

Once again, keep the bulbs somewhere dark until they start producing roots and sprouting.

3. Hyacinths

Some of the best hyacinth varieties can be forced indoors in water for the festive season. In fact, these are some of the best bulbs for Christmas flowering.

'Chill hyacinth bulbs (from Amazon) for 12 weeks in the same way as crocus, by placing in the refrigerator in a paper bag, avoiding placement next to ethylene producers,' Julie says.

'Hyacinths are best grown in a hyacinth forcing jar (from Amazon). You should fill the jar with water and place the bulb tip end down, just above the water level but not touching,' Julie describes.

The bulb should be kept in a cool, dark place until roots emerge. You can then reposition your hyacinth bulbs to a warmer, brighter spot to encourage blooming.

FAQs

How Do I Maintain Water-Forced Bulbs?

To maintain water-forced bulbs and to get a longer blooming period, it's important to avoid hydroponic gardening mistakes. This includes refreshing the water if it appears cloudy to prevent the build-up of bacteria and algae. Choosing a bright position will also prolong blooming, as will warmer room temperatures.

Indoor bulbs aren't just for the festive season; you can also grow tulips indoors for a bright display in late winter and early spring. Our guide to forcing bulbs in soil has more information to help.

Shop Bulb Forcing Essentials:

This month allows for late sowings of fast-growing vegetables, but pay close attention to their days to maturity to choose the best varieties. November also offers a chance to plant cold-hardy crops that can overwinter in the vegetable garden without issue for harvests come spring or summer.

Many of the vegetables to plant in November that I discuss here require protection in colder climates. Whether you grow them indoors, in a cold frame, or build tunnels or hoop houses, providing them with some protection will be crucial for success in late fall and early winter.

7 Vegetables to Plant in November

Building a small winter hoop house is a great way to protect plants from frost and help you to overwinter vegetables successfully.

They do not have to be large and can be simple to make, using garden hoops (like this set of six fiberglass hoops at Amazon) that you cover with blanket row covers (such as this 10 ft x 30 ft floating row cover also at Amazon).

Such a mini DIY hoop house can be used on vegetable beds or raised beds to help seedlings get off to a great start in a protected environment.

Quick-Cropping Vegetables to Plant in November

1. Red-Leaf Lettuce

There is a great selection of cold-hardy red-leafed lettuces that can provide attractive harvests of leaves throughout the colder months. Another reason to consider red-leaved lettuces is that they have a milder, nuttier, and slightly more bitter taste than usual green-leaved lettuce varieties.

When picking lettuce varieties for November, the two key considerations are ensuring they are cold-hardy and mature quickly. A range of around 25-45 days means fast cut-and-come-again harvests. But there will still be time to harvest lettuce heads if you desire.

Some of the best cold-hardy red-leaf lettuce varieties include 'New Red Fire', 'Merlot', and 'Red Sails'. Despite their tolerance for colder temperatures, they still prefer growing in an unheated greenhouse, under a hoop tunnel, or in a cold frame in colder climates, just to protect them from prolonged freezes.

Buy Lettuce 'New Red Fire' seeds at True Leaf Market

Buy Lettuce 'Red Sails' seeds at True Leaf Market

Buy Lettuce 'Merlot' seeds at Amazon

2. Mustards

Winter mustards make ideal vegetables to plant in November for peppery harvests of leaves to spice up cold-weather plates, whether enjoyed raw or cooked. There are a plethora of hardy mustards you can sow this month directly into the vegetable garden, with some even capable of surviving frosts and snow.

Some of the best mustards to sow in November include the very hardy 'Ruby Streaks', 'Green Wave', and 'Red Giant'. Mustards are fast-growing vegetables that can be harvested as a cut-and-come-again crop in only 25 days from sowing, while it takes only 45-50 days for the plants to reach maturity.

Sow seeds a quarter-inch deep in rows spaced 18 inches apart. While they are tolerant of cold, growing them under row covers or tunnels helps to prevent damage from pests, including birds that may peck at the leaves when food is scarce during the winter.

Buy Mustard 'Ruby Streaks' seeds at True Leaf Market

Buy Mustard 'Red Giant' seeds at True Leaf Market

Buy Mustard 'Green Wave' seeds at Amazon

3. Corn Salad

A fantastic and often under-appreciated crop for winter, corn salad is a mild-tasting salad leaf with a buttery texture and a slightly nutty flavor. Also known as lamb's lettuce or mache, it can be used in salads, either alone or mixed with other leaves for a tasty mix, or used as a garnish on winter dishes.

Corn salad is very cold-hardy and can survive frosts and snow to provide pickings even deep into winter. You can sow corn salad under cover in many climates in November, while those with very cold winters should see it as a vegetable to grow in a greenhouse in the fall.

Sow seeds outdoors directly into their growing position in fertile, well-draining soil. They only need to be covered with a light layer of soil and kept moist, without being waterlogged.

Harvest corn salad as a cut-and-come-again crop, which can start around a month after sowing the seeds. Simply snip leaves from the plant with a pair of garden snips or scissors as and when required, and you should get many harvests throughout winter and into spring.

You can get corn salad seeds at Amazon to sow this month.

4. Spinach

Spinach leaves are packed with vitamins, minerals, and nutrients, and you can get great harvests of this nutritious vegetable by sowing seeds this month.

If you want to grow spinach this month, look for cold-hardy varieties that have a fast days to maturity. The likes of 'Giant Winter' and 'Perpetual' are renowned for their hardiness and thrive in cooler temperatures of 30-60°F. Such varieties can provide harvests of baby leaves within a few weeks, or take 45-50 days to reach full maturity.

Spinach can grow in beds, raised garden beds, or you can even grow spinach in pots indoors during the colder months. Sow seeds around an inch deep and cover lightly. Thin the seedlings as they appear to around four inches apart, and keep the soil moist.

Start harvesting spinach once the leaves get large enough to use. Regularly picking the largest, outer leaves allows younger ones to grow on and promotes the development of new leaves for future harvests.

Get Spinach 'Winter Giant' seeds at True Leaf Market

Get Perpetual Spinach seeds at Amazon

Longer-Term Vegetables to Plant in November

5. Garlic

Garlic is one of the easiest and best vegetables to plant in November; planting garlic is as simple as pushing the cloves into the soil. Indeed, the main thing to remember is that you plant it the right way up (hint: the pointy end should be upwards).

You can plant hardneck or softneck garlic in the fall, though hardneck varieties are hardier and most suited to the coldest winters. Hardneck garlic does need exposure to the winter cold for the bulb to split, and you can’t plant it in spring like softneck can be. Consider your climate when picking the best type of garlic for you.

To grow garlic, the crop wants a sunny spot with well-draining soil, with compost or well-rotted manure added before planting. Separate the head of garlic into individual cloves and plant each one six inches apart, with the tip just showing above the soil surface.

Garlic can take 8-10 months from planting in the fall to harvesting in the summer. But the wait is well worth it, so try to resist harvesting garlic until the leaves turn yellow and die back naturally.

Shop garlic bulbs to plant at Burpee

Shop garlic bulbs to plant at True Leaf Market

Shop garlic bulbs to plant at Amazon

Shop garlic bulbs to plant at Walmart

6. Fava Beans

Fava beans, or broad beans, are not always the most popular crop, but a staple in many a vegetable garden. I have certainly grown them every year, and you can plant fava beans in the fall or spring for an earlier harvest of mild, nutty, and earthy beans in spring.

Whether you start growing fava beans in the fall often depends on soil type and whether your garden gets many visitors during the winter. Sowing is not ideal in heavy soils, as the beans can rot in sodden ground, while rodents can eat the beans as they search for food in winter.

However, if you can provide good conditions for fava beans, pick a variety suited to fall sowings. And the undisputed top pick for that is 'Aquadulce', a cold-hardy variety that you can rely on for great fava bean harvests come spring.

Sow the beans into two-inch deep drills, sowing them on their edge to reduce the risk of them rotting due to water sitting on the beans in the ground.

You can get 'Aquadulce' fava beans at Amazon to plant this month.

7. Overwintering Onions

There is still time to plant onions at the start of November, and these overwintering crops can provide an early harvest next year compared to spring-planted onions. By planting a combination of both, you can get a great and long crop of onions to enjoy.

Not all types of onions are suitable for overwintering, so look out for varieties marked as ideal for fall planting. Hardy varieties like 'Radar', 'Red Baron', 'Yellow Stuttgarter' or 'Senshu Yellow' are classic overwintering onions to choose from, and ones I have all grown successfully from fall plantings in the past.

Push the sets into the soil with the flat root end down and the pointed end facing up. It is advisable to cover the onions with row covers or horticultural fleece until the crop has developed roots. This is because birds are known to pull newly-planted onion sets out of the ground.

Get 'Red Baron' onion sets for planting at Amazon

Get 'Yellow Stuttgarter' onion sets for planting at Amazon

If you also want to grow fruit as well as vegetables in your productive garden, November can be a time to plant fruit trees. Our guide to some of the best fruit trees to plant in fall highlights seven different types you can plant in fall, when you can choose between planting container-grown or bare-root plants in your yard.

Shop Products to Protect Vegetable Seedlings

By using a hollowed out pumpkin as a vessel and carefully selecting the right flower, berry and foliage stems, you can craft an autumnal floral design for a porch or dining table that stylishly sums up the season and appears completely effortless.

In the Petals & Roots episode below, I demonstrate exactly how to create a stylish flower arrangement in a pumpkin – which lots of you loved. Here, I take you through my step-by-step in even more detail, and show you how to perfectly capture the season with this fun and sophisticated no-carve pumpkin design idea.

What you need to create a floral pumpkin

• A pumpkin
• A knife, such as this one from Amazon and tool to scrape out the center
• A small ceramic bowl or ramekin, just like these from Amazon, depending on the size of your pumpkin
• Floristry scissors; I use the Niwaki floral scissors, available from Anthropologie
• Chicken wire
• Floristry pot tape – my go-to is the clear pot tape, from Amazon
• A selection of fall flowers, foliage and berries. In my design I use:
  • Bay
  • Autumnal eucalyptus
  • Orange ilex berries
  • Cream hypericum berries
  • Orange dahlias
  • Pale peach stocks
  • Burgundy amaranth
  • Chocolate cosmos

Step 1: Add the mechanics to the inside of your pumpkin

Once you have sliced the top off and hollowed out your chosen pumpkin, you can get the behind-the-scenes of your design ready.

This is such an important step, as without the right mechanics your design won't have any structure, and importantly, it won't last as long.

The first thing to do is carefully cut a small square of chicken wire and fold it into a pillow. I always use gardening gloves to do this to protect my hands.

Push the chicken wire into a ceramic or plastic bowl (so long as it's waterproof it'll be fine) and secure this with pot tape over the top. Then place this inside and fill with fresh water.

By containing the water in a vessel like this, it will stop the pumpkin from rotting more quickly, so your floral pumpkin will last longer.

Eco tip: Try not to be tempted to use floral foam for this design. It might be quicker, but using a bowl and chicken wire is a much more eco friendly floral foam alternative, and will mean you can simply remove and reuse when your display is finished, and place the pumpkin on the compost heap.

Step 2: Create a base with foliage and berries

To create your shape and foundation, add your foliage stems first. I went in with a few bushy stems of bay, and followed this with some longer, curvaceous autumnal eucalyptus.

Both types of greenery are also strongly scented, making them ideal for an indoor arrangement.

Cut every stem at a 45 degree angle before adding into the water, to ensure everything is super hydrated and will stay fresh.

Once you have a fairly full coverage of foliage, start adding in your berries. I used pale orange ilex (deciduous holly), which are perfect for fall, followed by larger creamy hypericum berries. Both add a delicious texture, and can be shorter in length than the longer foliage stems to give the design more depth and help to fill large gaps.

Step 3: Add your fall flowers

Now it's time to add color! When you're ready to add your flowers, I start with the spire shapes and the focal blooms, followed by the more delicate details.

In this design, I added burgundy amaranth evenly throughout, varying the heights, followed by some delicious rusty orange dahlias – irresistible at this time of year.

Make sure you are placing each stem into the water. It's easy to miss the bowl once you have a lot of stems in your pumpkin.

Next I added pale peach stocks for a color contrast, and I finished with chocolate cosmos (my absolute favourite for their velvet petals and cocoa scent). Keep the stems of these flowers long so they can dance daintily over the larger blooms.

Once you're happy with the arrangement from every angle, check it for any gaps and make sure you can't see any of the chicken wire.

You can expect this design to last a week inside, and up to three weeks or more if you place it outside.

Your essential fall floristry kit

There are so many creative ways you can decorate with pumpkins this fall. You could even create floral crowns on smaller gourds and pumpkins by making small holes around the top of the fruits, and poking flowers and foliage into the holes. Try this with chrysanthemums and strawflowers as they will stay looking fresh for weeks, especially if kept outside.

Petals & Roots is a weekly video series fronted by me, Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. Every weekend on social, I share my seasonal gardening and flower arranging expertise and advice.